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Clicking sound coming from rear driver side brake caliper
https://vimeo.com/126631181
Has anyone had this problem? It sounds like it is coming from the caliper but I can't duplicate the sound with the wheel off. It is very annoying when I have the windows down at low speeds. The clicking occurs when the load shift in either direction forward or aft. I am trying to avoid the stealership because I know they are going to do a lot of unnecessary stuff and "might" fix it. |
I had the dealer regrease the axles. That helped, then a few weeks later it came back, now they say it's the brake pads shifting...
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Hmmmm, I might try replacing the pads... I'm at 18k miles, that might be the culprit.
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It could just be pads, but 18k is a short life for rear pads even if you track it some. They should last at least twice that long, probably longer. A friend of mine had this too. He had to get new axles installed. He has a 2010 nismo with 45k I think. It was less than $500... Hope it's something simple though. |
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No sense in paying for something and not use it If at all possible. :) But it does sound like it's the side shafts clicking |
Just to give you guys an update, I took my Z to the stealership and had them re-grease the splines and re-torque the axle nut. I guess Nissan is aware of the issue and they are using Molykote to lubricate the axles. So far I have not had the clicking issue since the fix. Let's hope it doesn't return.
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it's the axles. on my 07 350Z, each time i would accelerate or reverse, there was always a click. common issue among Z's.
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^^^ ditto. Had to return to dealer to have same thing dealt with. It still sort of makes an annoying sound sometimes to this day. Needs to be re-greased.
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Does it have any long term adverse effect if it is not fixed?
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Noticed the same issue about a month ago on my 2012 Sport Touring with just shy of 36k miles. Took it to the dealer and apparently now there's a TSB about the issue.
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I use anti-seize compound for lubricating the axle stubs. The clicking, or creaking sometimes, has become a norm in a RWD with independent rear suspension after the very thin lubrication applied at the factory has long evaporated. My Corvettes did it, my Zs did it, my V did it, a friend's GS still does it.
The fix is easy to do, it just requires a very large socket, a breaker bar, and a properly-calibrated torque wrench. If a dealer could do it without any charge to you, take the car to them. Otherwise, it takes about half an hour to do both sides. |
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