EBC Rotors

AQUAMAN

Anyone had any experience with this setup? I'm looking to upgrade and these seem to have gotten good reviews online but nothing specific to the Zs. Car is my dd with a handful of autocross and track days throughout the year.

EBC Stage 4 Signature Brake Kit

__________________
'Project Blackout'

JARblue

I have the Ultimax front rotors, but I can't say I have any experience with their pads. I don't think I would consider those pads for track use.

For track use I would be looking at 2 piece rotors and metallic pads. Just my

__________________

osbornsm

These are crap... sorry bud.
EBC is not for the track.

$600
Track Duty needs 2-piece rotors from one of the following Mfrs:
- Z1 2-piece Rotors
- DBA 5000 series T3 2-piece Rotors
- Racing Brake 2-piece Rotors

$200
Track Pads should come from ONE location only:
- Carbotechperformance.com

Pads should be XP8 or XP10

Brake Fluid should be Motul RBF600

~ Take Asprin for any headaches... Midol for any cramps.

__________________

AQUAMAN

Crap in general or just for track use? I have actually been looking at the DBA 5000 as an alternative so it's good to hear those aren't a bad brand.

__________________
'Project Blackout'

osbornsm

Crap for Track usage.

The DBA's rotors are on my car, there's nothing better i can say for them!!

Lemme know if you've got any questions!
~ Sean

__________________

AQUAMAN

Will do, I appreciate the advice

__________________
'Project Blackout'

JARblue

They are perfectly fine for DD use. Pads are a more significant factor on the street.

But I doubt the EBC rotors can handle sustained threshold braking any better than the stock rotors (i.e. they can't). Those 2 piece rotors osbornsm listed are tried and true, although the Z1 kit is by far the newest to market.

__________________

Rusty

I use the EBC rotors and Yellowstuff pads on my 4x4 pulling a 10,000 lbs camper with no problems in the Smokey Mountains. Also use the same set up on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. On my Z. Have used the Yellowstuff pads with Racing Brake 2 piece rotors for DD and trackdays. Since my experience on the track is increasing. My next set of pads will be 10's and 8's for the Z. For what the OP is wanting to do. He will be fine with the EBC stuff. But if the OP starts to go harder. Then up grade to better stuff.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

GSS138

Carbotechs must be an east coast vs west coast thing. Hardly anyone out here uses them.

There are a lot of other options besides Carbotech this I can assure you. If you really want the best pad available there are 4 choices.

Brembo, Pagid, Performance Friction, and Endless are all in a class of their own-and you pay for it. Basically all 4 of those companies laugh at all other brake pads.

In the not so rich-blooded category some solid alternatives are : DeFigo, Project Mu, Hawk, WinMax.

__________________
Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

njobe89

so what are good rotors for DD... i never track my car nor do i plan on doing it. just DD and spirited driving here and there.

__________________
2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

JARblue

Just about anything... the stock rotors or generic blanks are perfectly fine for most street driving and even light autoX.

Most people get aftermarket rotors for looks when just street driving.

__________________

njobe89

i have 24k miles on my car and my stock rotors are already done... every time i brake now usually if i'm in 3rd gear the steering wheel starts shaking.

__________________
2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

JARblue

My wife did the same thing with the stock rotors in about 20K miles. I put new rotors on them, and I have over 40K miles with absolutely no shaking under braking

You should look at your braking habits. Research uneven pad depositing and familiarize yourself with the bedding technique for new pads. Understanding these will help you understand how your braking habits are likely the main contributing factor to your "warped" rotors. Note that anyone referring to warped rotors is almost guaranteed to be referring to uneven pad depositing. You could probably even have yours "turned" - this process evens out the layer of pad deposits by shaving off the higher point on the rotor - and get a lot more miles out of them. But you only get 1MM of wear on most rotors, so you can't turn them more than once typically. You're better off adjust your braking habits, as I mentioned.

__________________

njobe89

i brake mainly with the engine. i had to slam on my breaks when someone pulled out in front me and every since then it's been shaking.

__________________
2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

JARblue

Yeah, so what has likely happened is your brakes were already pretty warm/hot when you had to brake suddenly. The cause of the shaking you now feel is when you stopped completely with those hot pads pressed firmly to those hot rotors. The pads continued to deposit pad material in that one location, leaving a high point on the rotor that is now noticeable under braking. You can try re-bedding the pads and see if that helps. Or have a brake shop turn them like I mentioned earlier.

To avoid this happening in the future, do your best to avoid stopping completely and holding the brakes down when your pads and rotors and rotors are hot (i.e. after any heavy braking). When I hit a yellow light that I stop for suddenly, I will often sit in N if the ground is level enough. Alternately, I put it in N and engage the e-brake just lightly enough to hold the car (you will have to do this in most cases in an AT). I make sure to tap the brakes a few times when cars are approaching from behind just to let them know that I am actually stopped.

__________________