EBC Rotors

JARblue

Just about anything... the stock rotors or generic blanks are perfectly fine for most street driving and even light autoX.

Most people get aftermarket rotors for looks when just street driving.

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njobe89

i have 24k miles on my car and my stock rotors are already done... every time i brake now usually if i'm in 3rd gear the steering wheel starts shaking.

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2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

JARblue

My wife did the same thing with the stock rotors in about 20K miles. I put new rotors on them, and I have over 40K miles with absolutely no shaking under braking

You should look at your braking habits. Research uneven pad depositing and familiarize yourself with the bedding technique for new pads. Understanding these will help you understand how your braking habits are likely the main contributing factor to your "warped" rotors. Note that anyone referring to warped rotors is almost guaranteed to be referring to uneven pad depositing. You could probably even have yours "turned" - this process evens out the layer of pad deposits by shaving off the higher point on the rotor - and get a lot more miles out of them. But you only get 1MM of wear on most rotors, so you can't turn them more than once typically. You're better off adjust your braking habits, as I mentioned.

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njobe89

i brake mainly with the engine. i had to slam on my breaks when someone pulled out in front me and every since then it's been shaking.

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2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

JARblue

Yeah, so what has likely happened is your brakes were already pretty warm/hot when you had to brake suddenly. The cause of the shaking you now feel is when you stopped completely with those hot pads pressed firmly to those hot rotors. The pads continued to deposit pad material in that one location, leaving a high point on the rotor that is now noticeable under braking. You can try re-bedding the pads and see if that helps. Or have a brake shop turn them like I mentioned earlier.

To avoid this happening in the future, do your best to avoid stopping completely and holding the brakes down when your pads and rotors and rotors are hot (i.e. after any heavy braking). When I hit a yellow light that I stop for suddenly, I will often sit in N if the ground is level enough. Alternately, I put it in N and engage the e-brake just lightly enough to hold the car (you will have to do this in most cases in an AT). I make sure to tap the brakes a few times when cars are approaching from behind just to let them know that I am actually stopped.

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njobe89

yea i do the same, leave it in neutral where i can.. i wanted to get z1 akebono 2 piece set just cause they look nice but if i dont have to spend $500 i won't lol

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2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8

Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq

JARblue

It sounds like it was just a one time deal then. I would try to re-bed your brakes to remove that excess pad material. Or if you're not comfortable doing that, take it to a brake shop that can turn the rotors. That should take care of the shaking for you. And you should be able to get plenty more miles out of them unless it happens again.

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