A good idea would be to cancel your Z1 bushing puller and to rent/buy a saw and get a blade that cuts through metal. You will save so much time. The puller is bs.

Hmm... I have a saw and blades for metal cutting. If the tool fails to do the job I'll contact Z1 about it...

What?...........................You liked your first post so much. That you had to post it again? :rofl2: :owned: :rofl2:

😊 Not sure how I managed to do that...I deleted one :tiphat:

You're certainly not the first person to complain about it. But I finally got to use one myself helping a fellow Z owner out a few weeks ago. Removing the OEM bushing with Z1's tool took less than 1/10 the time it took me to remove/cut out the OEM one on my own Z. It was easier than expected, mostly due to lower expectations after reading the complaints on the forum. Just my experience though.

FWIW, if you cut out the bushing, you shouldn't touch the subframe. You cut/drill out the center of the bushing then cut the outside shell of the bushing from the inside.

The dealer doesn't muck around with the bushing at all. They just order an entire new subframe with the bushing already pressed in :icon14:

Yep... If I have to use a saw, which I don't plan on it, I will take my time to avoid cutting or etching the subframe. I guess the trick is to cut through most of it and then begin to pry it away.

Thanks!

I tore everything down tonight except for dropping the diff. The drive shaft bolts were pretty damn tight! Tomorrow I'll drop the diff and try out the bushing removal tool.

I finished the job today. That was a bit harder than I thought it would be, but it's done. I had to get a 22" ratcheting breaker bar and raise the car high enough so it didn't hit the floor. Even with that I had to use my legs and arms to press that b#%ch out. Granted I'm not a big guy (150lbs), but that was tough! A lift would make it so much easier and allow you to use a long piece of pipe for leverage. I took her for a drive and nothing squeaks or rattles - seems nice and smooth. Nissan managed to put a defective CSC and rear diff in these cars and hasn't fixed it in a decade. That's BS!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...fb7d1e_z_d.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/...2f85bf_z_d.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/...847523_z_d.jpg

Today I experienced this myself. Plenty of curse words along the way :icon17:

I got to do mine soon. I've been putting it off because of my arm surgery. Have to wait until I get more arm strength back. It's bad when you can curl 100 lbs with the left and only 2 lbs with the right. :icon14:

I might be able to curl 65 dumbbells in each arm. 100 is a lot!

I work out 5 days a week and usually curl with 30's and 40's... 10 reps

6'2", 220 lbs. 17.5" neck, 46" chest, 33" waist. Have to wear 34" jeans because my thighs don't fit. :icon14: And I hardly work out. :D Should have seen me when I was 260 lbs. Still would like to get down to about 205~210. The older I get. The less weight I want to carry.

So the tool works! That's awesome. Even though it's tough, anything would be better than cutting that beotch out.

I just replaced my diff bushings, installed Z1 subframe collars and trans mount, and fixed the clicking axel issue using the Kawasaki nut. Just FYI since I don’t think anyone else has mentioned or does this, but the manual calls for new fasteners on the axels and propeller shaft. I bought all new hardware and they came coated in red, some loctite is assume.

I used the 32mm socket you need on the rear bushing to knock out the front bushings.

I also used a 2ft ratcheting breaker bar I got from amazon.

Sounds like the tool did the job for you as well. Did you bust both your balls pressing it out? I know I did... :icon14:

Any feedback on the subframe collars? I want to do that next.

Actually the tool gave me some trouble when it came to the larger rod and nut. Maybe my fault though. For those who don’t know, I’m the 2nd owner of the tool. The threads at then end got messed up. This shouldn’t happen normally because the instructions say to make sure you have like a ½ of thread or so before you start cranking. I must not have done that. I removed the nut and some of the rod thread was also embedded inside the nut. I didn’t think I’d be able to use it. Luckily I was able to get it all working. It took a 2 foot bar and my leg to press out the collar. At this point the nut seems fused to the rod so some of my power might have been fighting against a bad fitting nut. Definitely get a ratcheting breaker bar. I used amazon.

As for the collars I think they are doing great but I changed so much at once. The chassis certainly feels like it has less dive and squat. I will say they didn’t fit the way their video portrays them. Don’t don’t just slide in and give you a satisfying clink sound. Which makes it difficult to know if you’re getting the top collar in correctly. I still don’t know but everything torqued up to 81 ft lbs so...

The larger rod should be bigger. I stretched it doing mine, one nut is fused to the rod and the other will barely thread on. Took a breaker bar and large ratchet to get it apart after getting the bushing out Still way better than hacking at it with a sawzall and chisels.

Glad the tool survived a second round of abuse. Z1 does state that the tool will wear out and they sell a separate hardware kit which has new rods, washers and nuts. One can continue to reuse the housing parts multiple times.

Isn't this covered under our 3yr/36K and/or 5yr 60K powertrain warranty? Found this today. 2017 Nismo Tech with <18K miles.

I would think so; though they wouldn’t replace it as others have/ they would replace the whole cross member & you’ll get the same oil filled bushing.
Maybe you can negotiate having them install an upgraded version (that you supply) and show them the thread on how it’s removed & installed.
Just a thought- because it will only fail again if oil filled bushing is put back in.