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Originally Posted by mysxcz Hi Guys, this is just a thread to see if any other 370z owners have had the same issues i ahave had with mine, and maybe
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#1 (permalink) | |
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Boot.... others have had this problem... me, nothing... never had any problems with the hatch (boot). Side mirrors...? That's a weird one... never happened to me. My 2 cents.
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#4 (permalink) |
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My front driver seat has a lot of wrinkles in the leather in one back corner. I asked the dealer but they are saying its normal...
Does anyone else have this? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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willinsyd - maybe take a photo for us so we get a better idea?
Unfortunately with leather you can get natural wrinkles. But dealers are good at saying 'its normal'. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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You need to stop farting to one side only. (j/k)
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#9 (permalink) |
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This issue affects most makes of cars and I now reckon they do it for safety reasons rather than a miscalculation.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327056 http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/po...ex.htm?t=79433 They want us to drive slower and the menu in the ECU to change the correction factor will be set in the factory and hidden....maybe even from the dealer service? Although as said, this safety theory goes out the window as everyone will speed to compensate for the inaccuracy... I’m over this topic. ![]()
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#10 (permalink) |
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Yes, we are all getting over it, hence the leprachauns and such, however, my additional 20c worth.
whenever manufacturers specify the measurements of components (from wherever they get them) there is always a margin of error that needs to be stated. Nothing manufactured is ever 100% to spec. If I specify a screw of 10mm length and 5mm width it always 10mm length +/- 5 microns, or whatever. The smaller the margin of error the harder it is to meet that error, i.e. the manufacturer has to throw out those that don't mee the specs - the smaller the margim of error the higher the manufacturing costs. Now, If I know that I cannot produce a speedo that shows less that the 'true' speed for legal reasons and I want to keep costs down then I will specify the components be made to show 'true' speed + 10% with a margin of +/- 5%. Then I am keeping my costs down and know that the speedo will (almost) never show less than the 'true' speed. i.e. it will show from 'true' + 5% to 'true' + 15% at the outside margin of error. Somple - costs are low and I am now within my legal obligations. Hence, speedos show around 'true' + 5 - 10% on average. math rules! G
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A problem I had that has since been rectified -
Less than a week after picking the car I noticed one morning that the bonnet was not sitting flush with the bodywork at the front of the car. It was skewed to one side, higher on the passenger side and lower on the driver's side. After a bit of fiddling I suspected that it was the bonnet stops that had perhaps moved around slightly. It was at the time of the first 'free' check and the dealer confirmed that the bonnet stops. See pic. My usual technique for closing bonnets ever since I can remember is to lower the bonnet to within 6 inches of the body and let it drop to close. I know that it was sitting perfectly flush when I picked it up and I was the only person ever to open/close the bonnet. I thought that maybe as the bonnet is aluminium and much lighter than the usual steel bonnet that maybe this technique was not a good thing. Ever since I have been lowering the bonnet to sit againt the bodywork then gently using each hand at either end of the bonnet (driver amd passengers side) to gently push it closed. The aluminium flexes a little (as it want to do) and I hav'ent had the problem since. Anyone else noticed problems with closing the bonnet? G
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Hmmm...I noticed the left side of my "bonnet" is raised slightly, very small diff between right & left. But it closes fine...will have service fix it.
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