Alright here it is, my build thread.
 

Sup guys, thought I'd share the details on my audio build. I've been working it out for a little while, and as some of you know I ran into some issues with my headunit install trying to integrate with the Bose system. No need to worry though, because I ripped it all out and started fresh.

First, this is my glorious 5 channel amp.
http://i.imgur.com/d4cZB4dl.jpg
I've decided to mount it beneath the passenger seat. After test fitting, I just liked the stealth mode install idea. It's still got plenty of breathing room, and you wouldn't even notice it unless I was showing it off. This location also keeps my power run nice and short, which is important because the PDX-V9 is somewhat of a monster when it comes to power consumption. I didn't feel like ponying up for a heavier gauge wire kit than 4AWG, which I already had.
http://i.imgur.com/pEGAxWnl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DpHfk0pl.jpg

A cool little note here, if you're looking for a good factory ground location within a reasonable distance of the passenger seat, pop off the panel where the rear speaker is mounted and you'll see that spot above.

http://i.imgur.com/lOr7CeNl.jpg

To make it easy on myself, I ran all my speaker wire and my amp turn on wire to the factory amplifier harness. Now I made a mistake here of using the little gray wire which is the Bose sub amp turn on wire to hook my turn on to. Bad news is that wire doesn't work with the harnesses disconnected from the factory amp. Use the little white wire that measures 12V on ACC, ON, and RUN. That one still works when the harness is unplugged.

http://i.imgur.com/QGWjLn4l.jpg

All taped up. I zipped tied them off to another loom of wire too, but I don't have pictures of that.

http://i.imgur.com/H48mr4el.jpg

A lot of people talk about tweeter brackets and etc. Well I didn't have a peice of plastic to fabricate one out of. But I do have a dremel.

http://i.imgur.com/JlLeOfml.jpg

I honestly think this looks so much better anyway. Personal preference though.

http://i.imgur.com/5H7HLkRl.jpg

See?
http://i.imgur.com/Xs34rPcl.jpg

Alright so my speakers that I installed were the Alpine SPR-60C. Now Crutchfield says these won't fit. But with a Scosche SA69 bracket and the brackets that come with the speakers, I think they fit in just fine.
http://i.imgur.com/RH7IPiSl.jpg

It's all coming together here. Speaker wire ran, power and ground...

http://i.imgur.com/XCtotl4l.jpg

Here's my Parrot Asteroid Smart. It's gonna be happy that it doesn't have to deal with that crappy Bose system anymore.

http://i.imgur.com/pmpN2Orl.jpg

Power wire through the grommet behind the battery.

http://i.imgur.com/gFgQ41ul.jpg

Again because I think this looks awesome.

http://i.imgur.com/elIMGOpl.jpg

At this point I was pretty much done, time for some glamor shots.

http://i.imgur.com/3kvjAjgl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aLrKgoxl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WjlCuppl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UPRaUbLl.jpg

Goodbye Bose!

Anyway this was a super fun build for me, if anyone has any questions about it please let me know.

Products used:

Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel Amplifier
SPR-60C
Scosche SA69 Bracket
9Conductor Speaker wire
4AWG Truconnect Amp Kit
2 Additional pairs of RCA cables.
Parrot Asteroid Smart.

I also have a Zenclosure 12" Upfire box I'm waiting on so I can throw in my Alpine SWR-12D4 sub. Whenever it's in I'll put up a couple more pictures.

A note on audio quality: Hilariously, I have the Bose "Subs" and rear speakers pretty much deleted in my build and I get cleaner sound, more volume, and more bass without it.

Nice build, but I would have bypassed the factory speaker wires. It's not too difficult to chase home run wires through the doors. I'm sure your going to enjoy your time in the Z even more now.:tup:

There's really no point in bypassing factory wiring as far as I'm concerned. It's all 18AWG copper anyway. You won't get a noticeable difference in sound quality even if you ran 14AWG to everything.

My concern would be for the multiple sets of connectors along the signal path to the speakers that were not engineered for 100W+ RMS. Just my 2 cents....

I would find it hard to believe that a couple of standard molex connectors in the path from the Bose amp to the speaker location would not be able to handle some increased power output. These are the same style plugs that are engineered to trigger air bags, power your heated seats and window motors. I feel they would be engineered well enough to handle a 100 watt RMS audio signal load. We're all welcome to our own opinions though, and we all have our own ways of doing things.

Annyyyyyway.

ZEnclosures Upfire box is in.

http://i.imgur.com/Iwi6zrQl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Gv24FShl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/H9Fada3l.jpg

Nice work !

Alright here it is, my build thread.
 

really nice!
and great music selection

I've always bypassed the crappy stock wiring as your pushing past 80 watts it's good to have the thicker wire for less resistance.

Nice just with the install!

Well done sir!

What is on your dash and why didn't you put it under the (now empty) tweeter grill?

Gps antenna. Needs view of sky. Can't hide under dash or it won't work.

You would be surprised how well those pick up GPS signals.

Nice install!

yah, i would place that antenna inside the dash or even in the back end of the cubby to see how well it works. chances are, it will work just fine.

Needs a metal-free view of the sky. Under the dash is fine, plastic wont block the signal.

I stand corrected. I suppose I could move it, but it doesn't bother me enough and I think it's sleek enough that it doesn't look out of place on the dash. If it were bulkier and ugly I'd move it for sure. It does blink though, which can be distracting at night. I'll consider it.

Thanks everyone for the comments, I do appreciate the feedback.