Engine Noise :(

jrniehaus · 11-03-2009, 12:38 AM

I have a kenwood ddx714 using the factory wiring harness adaptor. The power for amp is running down passenger side. Now the amp is grounded well to the frame since I sanded that spot. The remote on, rcas, and front speaker lines are all going down the driver side. I haven't tried regrounding the deck, but wondering if it may be that, or if I should run the rcas and remote down the center and leave the fronts speaker wires on the driver side door area and assume the deck is ok, since it never buzzed before I added the components, and amp, etc.

bigaudiofanat · 11-03-2009, 11:17 AM

I am trying to help this guy and sent a link to him to help with the problem. It is not a install error as it is known threw the industry as a problem.

Anyway, I would still relocated your ground wire for the head unit to another place the factory ground can sometimes be the problem. Also you said that you did not see where I put the ground for the amp in my installs. Here is where I put mine.

jrniehaus · 11-03-2009, 11:51 AM

cool, thanks for the picture. I must have missed it. I grounded mine to the other bolt to the left of that one. And I am going to ground the head unit on my next day off. If that don't work, then I guess Ill try grounding the Rca's which may be a bit difficult because on my HU it has an accesory plug in that converts the plug to an Rca which isn't as easy as wrapping the wire around the rca's. May have to run the wires around the outside of them and use electrical tape or heat shrink tube or something to hold it in place. My other questions are if it is ok to have the speaker leads going to the front, side by side with the Rca's and remote on lead. And as for the hiss noise that is generated from the amp? Or is that normal.

P.S. Sorry for all the questions, don't mean to be annoying. I just tend to have many questions, haha.

bigaudiofanat · 11-03-2009, 12:07 PM

No problem it is good to ask questions. His can be from your amp and your head unit mostly from your amp because of the noise ratio or because the gain is up and you have the volume cranked.

Having the speaker wires going side to the rcas SHOULD NOT be a problem but one thing about car audio nothing is ever normal. So that could be what you can check next. Also you said that your power wire is on the other side of the car right? Just wanted to verify. Ya your kenwood should not have to worry about poor grounding so you should not have to do that trick to it. There is another way to diagnos your problem. If you have a Y adapter with a headphone jack on one side and a set of rcas on the other. Unplug your rcas from the amp and plug that into the amp starting at 0 on the ipod with the car on slowly turn it up if there is noise it is trouble with either cross talk or a ground with your amp. If there is not noise it can still be crosstalk but only with the rcas from the head unit or picking up noise from the head unit. A good ground for the head unit is right under the shift knob loosen one of the 4 bolts there sand around it and ground the head unit ground there. Good luck and do not feel bad for asking questions. It keeps me busy.

jrniehaus · 11-03-2009, 12:31 PM

I will try the ipod trick and see if there is a buzz. And you never mentioned the fact that the remote on for the amp that is also running with the rca side. I also basically am mounting the amp where you did, behind the driver seat. Just haven't yet screwed it down. Really don't want to screw through the plastic, but am going to have to. Any tricks to that, or is a drywall screw easy to do it with. I usually use drywall screws(i got a bunch already 1.25" length). You think grounding the radio would be best or grounding the rca's? P.S. I am bridging that amp for the components and am using a y at the amp terminals for the left and right(front and back).

bigaudiofanat · 11-03-2009, 12:36 PM

I used regular screws not drywall screws the thread were not that far apart also if you want o help it hold there put some 2 part epoxy on the threads or some kind of glue. But it will hold either way. The wake up line might give you some interference and might want to try moving that as well. Also you should not have to relocate your amp just to get rid of noise you can get a longer ground wire than what they include. Go to your local car audio place and pickup like a 4 ft piece of ground wire that way you can cut it to length and also get a O ring connector as well. Just try to keep your ground as short as possible. I think you should try the grounding of the head unit first. Also were is your Y splitter? It should be that the Y splitter is were your amp is and not behind the head unit. You should split the signal after it runs to the back.

jrniehaus · 11-03-2009, 01:01 PM

My ground for the amp is ok. It's only a couple feet long and goes right to the amp from that spot I grounded. I will relocate the remote-on lead and ground the HU to a bolt near the shifter. I assume you want me to take the black(ground) wire straight from the radio and bolt it to the ground there. Then see what it does. I'm off tomorrow, so I will try it then. Thanks again.

bigaudiofanat · 11-03-2009, 01:20 PM

Yes that is what I am saying right to the metal. For your amp ground wire I know it is probably fine were it is but it could be picking up noise there and I was saying if need be you can make it longer. Before you do any of this do the ipod test and see what you find out. No problem man.

jrniehaus · 11-04-2009, 08:17 PM

ok, so I rerouted remote-on lead. and grounded deck to shifter bolt area. buzz is still there but very little. But, I didn't sand down the paint to that area. I should have done that, but didn't due to the tight area. I will try that next time i have a chance. BUT, now I noticed a new issue. Not sure if I disconnected something or if something is wrong now, because the steering wheel volume swithc is no longer working. The source button and can change the channels with the other controls, it is simply the volume that isn't working. Now, I may have pushed the button too hard and it may be the switch. Or, it is the control adaptor that was hooked to my HU. I am not sure if it could be the hook up to the HU or if it is a faulty switch due to the fact that I may have pushed it too hard. Any ideas? If it is the button, maybe I can take it out and make sure I didn't break something by pushing it too hard. I can easily replace that, but I never took one of those out of the steering wheel.

bigaudiofanat · 11-04-2009, 08:22 PM

You might of disconnected something or it lost it's memory when you took the battery terminal off. Try programing the control box.

ConchZ2 · 11-04-2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

I am trying to help this guy and sent a link to him to help with the problem. It is not a install error as it is known threw the industry as a problem.

Anyway, I would still relocated your ground wire for the head unit to another place the factory ground can sometimes be the problem. Also you said that you did not see where I put the ground for the amp in my installs. Here is where I put mine.

It IS an install error as I stated..........

just saying

11-04-2009, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConchZ2

It IS an install error as I stated..........

just saying

Only install error is a fist thats not installed in your FACE

Why dont you leave him alone instead of stalking him on here all the damn time?

ConchZ2 · 11-04-2009, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue660r01

Only install error is a fist thats not installed in your FACE

Why dont you leave him alone instead of stalking him on here all the damn time?

another good BOY from the hood..............

just saying

11-03-2009, 11:17 AM	#47 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	I am trying to help this guy and sent a link to him to help with the problem. It is not a install error as it is known threw the industry as a problem. Anyway, I would still relocated your ground wire for the head unit to another place the factory ground can sometimes be the problem. Also you said that you did not see where I put the ground for the amp in my installs. Here is where I put mine. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ Last edited by bigaudiofanat; 11-03-2009 at 11:23 AM.

11-03-2009, 12:07 PM	#49 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	No problem it is good to ask questions. His can be from your amp and your head unit mostly from your amp because of the noise ratio or because the gain is up and you have the volume cranked. Having the speaker wires going side to the rcas SHOULD NOT be a problem but one thing about car audio nothing is ever normal. So that could be what you can check next. Also you said that your power wire is on the other side of the car right? Just wanted to verify. Ya your kenwood should not have to worry about poor grounding so you should not have to do that trick to it. There is another way to diagnos your problem. If you have a Y adapter with a headphone jack on one side and a set of rcas on the other. Unplug your rcas from the amp and plug that into the amp starting at 0 on the ipod with the car on slowly turn it up if there is noise it is trouble with either cross talk or a ground with your amp. If there is not noise it can still be crosstalk but only with the rcas from the head unit or picking up noise from the head unit. A good ground for the head unit is right under the shift knob loosen one of the 4 bolts there sand around it and ground the head unit ground there. Good luck and do not feel bad for asking questions. It keeps me busy. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

11-03-2009, 12:36 PM	#51 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	I used regular screws not drywall screws the thread were not that far apart also if you want o help it hold there put some 2 part epoxy on the threads or some kind of glue. But it will hold either way. The wake up line might give you some interference and might want to try moving that as well. Also you should not have to relocate your amp just to get rid of noise you can get a longer ground wire than what they include. Go to your local car audio place and pickup like a 4 ft piece of ground wire that way you can cut it to length and also get a O ring connector as well. Just try to keep your ground as short as possible. I think you should try the grounding of the head unit first. Also were is your Y splitter? It should be that the Y splitter is were your amp is and not behind the head unit. You should split the signal after it runs to the back. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ Last edited by bigaudiofanat; 11-03-2009 at 12:56 PM.

11-03-2009, 01:20 PM	#53 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Yes that is what I am saying right to the metal. For your amp ground wire I know it is probably fine were it is but it could be picking up noise there and I was saying if need be you can make it longer. Before you do any of this do the ipod test and see what you find out. No problem man. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

11-04-2009, 08:22 PM	#55 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	You might of disconnected something or it lost it's memory when you took the battery terminal off. Try programing the control box. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

11-03-2009, 12:38 AM	#46 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	I have a kenwood ddx714 using the factory wiring harness adaptor. The power for amp is running down passenger side. Now the amp is grounded well to the frame since I sanded that spot. The remote on, rcas, and front speaker lines are all going down the driver side. I haven't tried regrounding the deck, but wondering if it may be that, or if I should run the rcas and remote down the center and leave the fronts speaker wires on the driver side door area and assume the deck is ok, since it never buzzed before I added the components, and amp, etc.

11-03-2009, 11:51 AM	#48 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	cool, thanks for the picture. I must have missed it. I grounded mine to the other bolt to the left of that one. And I am going to ground the head unit on my next day off. If that don't work, then I guess Ill try grounding the Rca's which may be a bit difficult because on my HU it has an accesory plug in that converts the plug to an Rca which isn't as easy as wrapping the wire around the rca's. May have to run the wires around the outside of them and use electrical tape or heat shrink tube or something to hold it in place. My other questions are if it is ok to have the speaker leads going to the front, side by side with the Rca's and remote on lead. And as for the hiss noise that is generated from the amp? Or is that normal. P.S. Sorry for all the questions, don't mean to be annoying. I just tend to have many questions, haha.

11-03-2009, 12:31 PM	#50 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	I will try the ipod trick and see if there is a buzz. And you never mentioned the fact that the remote on for the amp that is also running with the rca side. I also basically am mounting the amp where you did, behind the driver seat. Just haven't yet screwed it down. Really don't want to screw through the plastic, but am going to have to. Any tricks to that, or is a drywall screw easy to do it with. I usually use drywall screws(i got a bunch already 1.25" length). You think grounding the radio would be best or grounding the rca's? P.S. I am bridging that amp for the components and am using a y at the amp terminals for the left and right(front and back).

11-03-2009, 01:01 PM	#52 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	My ground for the amp is ok. It's only a couple feet long and goes right to the amp from that spot I grounded. I will relocate the remote-on lead and ground the HU to a bolt near the shifter. I assume you want me to take the black(ground) wire straight from the radio and bolt it to the ground there. Then see what it does. I'm off tomorrow, so I will try it then. Thanks again.

11-04-2009, 08:17 PM	#54 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	ok, so I rerouted remote-on lead. and grounded deck to shifter bolt area. buzz is still there but very little. But, I didn't sand down the paint to that area. I should have done that, but didn't due to the tight area. I will try that next time i have a chance. BUT, now I noticed a new issue. Not sure if I disconnected something or if something is wrong now, because the steering wheel volume swithc is no longer working. The source button and can change the channels with the other controls, it is simply the volume that isn't working. Now, I may have pushed the button too hard and it may be the switch. Or, it is the control adaptor that was hooked to my HU. I am not sure if it could be the hook up to the HU or if it is a faulty switch due to the fact that I may have pushed it too hard. Any ideas? If it is the button, maybe I can take it out and make sure I didn't break something by pushing it too hard. I can easily replace that, but I never took one of those out of the steering wheel.

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