Engine Noise :(

bigaudiofanat · 09-24-2009, 01:19 PM

No one is an idiot in my book. I look at people that do not know things and they are not idiots they are just uneducated about the task at hand.

The Weapon · 09-25-2009, 12:50 PM

Ok... Everything is all put back together and working fine. 0 Engine Noise.

[ Bose Head Unit ] Has 4 Channels FL/FR/RL/RR (Full Range)
Those 4 channels go into the [Stock Bose Amp]
Stock Bose Amp crossedover with 7 Channels 2 Tweeters/2 Mids/2 Rears and 1 Sub.

Bose Head Unit goes into a 4 channel Line Out Converter
-Front Channels goes to Amp 1 (RF Punch 600@4) Running Focals 165VS Bridged (300 watts aprox)
-Rear Channels go to Amp 2 (RF Punch 250.1) powering 1 12" Armegeddon MSeries (500watts @ 2ohms) So now my fader works as a Bass Volume Control.

I can tell I need some more EQ control and will probably get RF 3Sixty.2 to help out with that. But as far as SQ it's not bad and way better than Stock. Kind of hard to make fine tune adjustments with only Bass and Treble +/-

The Engine noise, I am going to blame on the a faulty RE-Q because I have 0 noise now. No popping, no hissing, no whining, nothing.

For those of you looking into upgrading the the sound in the Bose System and keep the headunit it can be done and there a few different ways it appears you can do it.

Stock Bose:
Adding Sub&Amp Only
-Easiest Way - Take the Output Sub Signals from the Bose Amp to a LOC or RE-Q

New Speakers Amp & Sub -
-Option 1 - Take the outputs (7 Channels) from the Bose Amp Sum them together using Cleansweep, AudioControl RE-Q5 etc...Hook up to amps
-Option 2 - Take Inputs from Bose Headunit that go into the Bose Amp (4 full range channels) to a LOC (no need for a summing device) and hook up to amps.

Pics coming soon.

bigaudiofanat · 09-25-2009, 05:03 PM

Sigh" It is not a faulty re-q you just needed to find a different place to get power from you are not suppose to get it from the block. You are suppose to get it from a power wire like behind the dash or somewhere in the fuse block. It was not faulty at all people encounter engine noise all the time and than they start moving the ground and power wires to a different conection or the rca wires until it goes away.

bigaudiofanat · 09-26-2009, 01:42 PM

Ground loop isolators are a last resort as they can omit or fade out certain freq in the sound, including ones that music would usually come out at. Always check different power places and ground as well before using one of them.

ConchZ2 · 09-27-2009, 08:25 AM

Noise suppressors are the last resort, as I stated earlier, and it might be the only resolution for engine noise problems.

The Weapon · 09-30-2009, 02:32 AM

I exchanged my RE-Q and the new one is working fine. The engine was the unit and not my install. It sounds a lot better with the new RE-Q and had i received a working RE-Q this install would have been easy and quick.

Total Cost for the RE-Q 5 $175

As far as sound quality I have to say I'm very impressed with what the RE-Q does when it's not making a bunch of noise.

bigaudiofanat · 10-31-2009, 02:49 PM

You have to have a clean metal surface so go to your ground and SAND the paint and all off. Also as far as I knwo and all the head units I have put in the z's there is not factory ground wire that is used in the aftermarket harnesses. So I would check on those if you did somehow use the factory ground unhook that wire and ground it to one of the 4 bolts were the shift knob is. But the most important thing is to sand that primer and paint off that ground spot.

jrniehaus · 10-31-2009, 03:48 PM

I looked at the pics on the web site that was linked to your response, and noticed you had a blue 370z you did an install on. In the back where the crossbar is (the one directly behind the seats) directly below that in the little cubby of the trunk there are two silver screws attached to a black tab that is screwed to the trunk. The one on the left is where I bolted down the ground. So, should I take the bolt off and sand off the paint from that, or can I move that tab so that I can sand the trunk below that and mount the ground between the black tab and the trunk itself? Or, is there a better place to put the ground?

bigaudiofanat · 10-31-2009, 07:12 PM

Sometimes it does not matter were you put your ground wire, yes you could put it were I put mine at. BUT you have to sand the spot.. Electric can not travel easily with paint and primer on top of the metal.

jrniehaus · 10-31-2009, 10:03 PM

I didn't see where your ground was. Plus I haven't tried yet, but I don't know if I can get that black tap off of the trunk area to sand under it. It may, but I haven't tried yet.

jrniehaus · 11-02-2009, 04:14 PM

Ok, so I actually moved the ground from the amp to a different bolt in the trunk and sanded it real good. Still have a engine buzz noise. Wondering if it is now the deck that needs to be grounded to the body somewhere also. I believe you grounded yours to a bolt near the gear selector? And my Hd 900-5 also seems to have a bit of a hissing noise when I set the input gains to the 24.6(fronts) and 44.7(sub) voltage levels. Maybe I should turn the amp gains down a bit to make the hiss less?

SlikNik · 11-02-2009, 05:38 PM

I have the same amp and just finished my install last week. No engine noise luckily.
I ran rca's down the middle, power wire down the drivers side. New speaker wire from amp(under that black foam piece) to crossovers under the seats, to door components. When your wires start to get closer together as they get closer to the amp make sure they don't run parallel next to each other. If they have to cross each other I have always heard to cross them at 90 degrees. I used that bolt to the left of the remote sensor thingy that was talked about in another thread to ground my amp. Used a wire brush in a drill to clean it down to metal.
The head unit is grounded to the wire harness on mine.

jrniehaus · 11-02-2009, 11:38 PM

I have a kenwood ddx714 using the factory wiring harness adaptor. The power for amp is running down passenger side. Now the amp is grounded well to the frame since I sanded that spot. The remote on, rcas, and front speaker lines are all going down the driver side. I haven't tried regrounding the deck, but wondering if it may be that, or if I should run the rcas and remote down the center and leave the fronts speaker wires on the driver side door area and assume the deck is ok, since it never buzzed before I added the components, and amp, etc.

bigaudiofanat · 11-02-2009, 05:27 PM

Who makes your head unit? If it is pioneer you might have to ground the rca plugs if you already grounded the unit to a clean place. 80% of the problems with noise are grounds that is why I keep bringing them up.

And yes I say pioneer because they are known for this problem. Here is a thread that might help you out more.

"Grounding the RCA's on the head unit
Many have had problems with Pioneer head units because of a poor internal RCA ground. To remedy this, simply wrap wire around the RCA's and screw the wire down to the head unit's chassis like so:"

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198477

bigaudiofanat · 11-02-2009, 05:31 PM

Also if you still can not get it. Please contact me threw aim or yahoo so we can talk about the problem further.

09-24-2009, 01:19 PM	#1 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	No one is an idiot in my book. I look at people that do not know things and they are not idiots they are just uneducated about the task at hand. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

09-25-2009, 12:50 PM	#2 (permalink)
The Weapon Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 286 Drives: 370Z Tour/Sport Blk Rep Power: 3372	Ok... Everything is all put back together and working fine. 0 Engine Noise. [ Bose Head Unit ] Has 4 Channels FL/FR/RL/RR (Full Range) Those 4 channels go into the [Stock Bose Amp] Stock Bose Amp crossedover with 7 Channels 2 Tweeters/2 Mids/2 Rears and 1 Sub. Bose Head Unit goes into a 4 channel Line Out Converter -Front Channels goes to Amp 1 (RF Punch 600@4) Running Focals 165VS Bridged (300 watts aprox) -Rear Channels go to Amp 2 (RF Punch 250.1) powering 1 12" Armegeddon MSeries (500watts @ 2ohms) So now my fader works as a Bass Volume Control. I can tell I need some more EQ control and will probably get RF 3Sixty.2 to help out with that. But as far as SQ it's not bad and way better than Stock. Kind of hard to make fine tune adjustments with only Bass and Treble +/- The Engine noise, I am going to blame on the a faulty RE-Q because I have 0 noise now. No popping, no hissing, no whining, nothing. For those of you looking into upgrading the the sound in the Bose System and keep the headunit it can be done and there a few different ways it appears you can do it. Stock Bose: Adding Sub&Amp Only -Easiest Way - Take the Output Sub Signals from the Bose Amp to a LOC or RE-Q New Speakers Amp & Sub - -Option 1 - Take the outputs (7 Channels) from the Bose Amp Sum them together using Cleansweep, AudioControl RE-Q5 etc...Hook up to amps -Option 2 - Take Inputs from Bose Headunit that go into the Bose Amp (4 full range channels) to a LOC (no need for a summing device) and hook up to amps. Pics coming soon. __________________ Boosted Performance Comp Turbo - Tuner- CJM Fuel Return- Modified Berk CBE- ZSpeed Stage 4 Clutch - Southbend Flywheel - Tuned by Seb ~650whp - HKS Coilovers - SPL - Focal Audio 4 way Active - Audiocontrol DSP - Work CR 2P

09-25-2009, 05:03 PM	#3 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Sigh" It is not a faulty re-q you just needed to find a different place to get power from you are not suppose to get it from the block. You are suppose to get it from a power wire like behind the dash or somewhere in the fuse block. It was not faulty at all people encounter engine noise all the time and than they start moving the ground and power wires to a different conection or the rca wires until it goes away. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

09-26-2009, 01:42 PM	#4 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Ground loop isolators are a last resort as they can omit or fade out certain freq in the sound, including ones that music would usually come out at. Always check different power places and ground as well before using one of them. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

09-30-2009, 02:32 AM	#6 (permalink)
The Weapon Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 286 Drives: 370Z Tour/Sport Blk Rep Power: 3372	I exchanged my RE-Q and the new one is working fine. The engine was the unit and not my install. It sounds a lot better with the new RE-Q and had i received a working RE-Q this install would have been easy and quick. Total Cost for the RE-Q 5 $175 As far as sound quality I have to say I'm very impressed with what the RE-Q does when it's not making a bunch of noise. __________________ Boosted Performance Comp Turbo - Tuner- CJM Fuel Return- Modified Berk CBE- ZSpeed Stage 4 Clutch - Southbend Flywheel - Tuned by Seb ~650whp - HKS Coilovers - SPL - Focal Audio 4 way Active - Audiocontrol DSP - Work CR 2P Last edited by The Weapon; 09-30-2009 at 01:53 PM.

09-27-2009, 08:25 AM	#5 (permalink)
ConchZ2 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: connecticut Posts: 329 Drives: 09 370Z red 6sp sprt Rep Power: 17	Noise suppressors are the last resort, as I stated earlier, and it might be the only resolution for engine noise problems.

10-31-2009, 02:49 PM	#7 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	You have to have a clean metal surface so go to your ground and SAND the paint and all off. Also as far as I knwo and all the head units I have put in the z's there is not factory ground wire that is used in the aftermarket harnesses. So I would check on those if you did somehow use the factory ground unhook that wire and ground it to one of the 4 bolts were the shift knob is. But the most important thing is to sand that primer and paint off that ground spot. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

10-31-2009, 03:48 PM	#8 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	I looked at the pics on the web site that was linked to your response, and noticed you had a blue 370z you did an install on. In the back where the crossbar is (the one directly behind the seats) directly below that in the little cubby of the trunk there are two silver screws attached to a black tab that is screwed to the trunk. The one on the left is where I bolted down the ground. So, should I take the bolt off and sand off the paint from that, or can I move that tab so that I can sand the trunk below that and mount the ground between the black tab and the trunk itself? Or, is there a better place to put the ground?

10-31-2009, 07:12 PM	#9 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Sometimes it does not matter were you put your ground wire, yes you could put it were I put mine at. BUT you have to sand the spot.. Electric can not travel easily with paint and primer on top of the metal. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

10-31-2009, 10:03 PM	#10 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	I didn't see where your ground was. Plus I haven't tried yet, but I don't know if I can get that black tap off of the trunk area to sand under it. It may, but I haven't tried yet.

11-02-2009, 04:14 PM	#11 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	Ok, so I actually moved the ground from the amp to a different bolt in the trunk and sanded it real good. Still have a engine buzz noise. Wondering if it is now the deck that needs to be grounded to the body somewhere also. I believe you grounded yours to a bolt near the gear selector? And my Hd 900-5 also seems to have a bit of a hissing noise when I set the input gains to the 24.6(fronts) and 44.7(sub) voltage levels. Maybe I should turn the amp gains down a bit to make the hiss less?

11-02-2009, 05:38 PM	#12 (permalink)
SlikNik Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 294 Drives: 2015 Corvette Z51 Rep Power: 18	I have the same amp and just finished my install last week. No engine noise luckily. I ran rca's down the middle, power wire down the drivers side. New speaker wire from amp(under that black foam piece) to crossovers under the seats, to door components. When your wires start to get closer together as they get closer to the amp make sure they don't run parallel next to each other. If they have to cross each other I have always heard to cross them at 90 degrees. I used that bolt to the left of the remote sensor thingy that was talked about in another thread to ground my amp. Used a wire brush in a drill to clean it down to metal. The head unit is grounded to the wire harness on mine.

11-02-2009, 11:38 PM	#13 (permalink)
jrniehaus Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phx,AZ Posts: 45 Drives: 370z 6spd sport mdl Rep Power: 16	I have a kenwood ddx714 using the factory wiring harness adaptor. The power for amp is running down passenger side. Now the amp is grounded well to the frame since I sanded that spot. The remote on, rcas, and front speaker lines are all going down the driver side. I haven't tried regrounding the deck, but wondering if it may be that, or if I should run the rcas and remote down the center and leave the fronts speaker wires on the driver side door area and assume the deck is ok, since it never buzzed before I added the components, and amp, etc.

11-02-2009, 05:27 PM	#14 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Who makes your head unit? If it is pioneer you might have to ground the rca plugs if you already grounded the unit to a clean place. 80% of the problems with noise are grounds that is why I keep bringing them up. And yes I say pioneer because they are known for this problem. Here is a thread that might help you out more. "Grounding the RCA's on the head unit Many have had problems with Pioneer head units because of a poor internal RCA ground. To remedy this, simply wrap wire around the RCA's and screw the wire down to the head unit's chassis like so:" http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198477 __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ Last edited by bigaudiofanat; 11-02-2009 at 05:30 PM.

11-02-2009, 05:31 PM	#15 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Also if you still can not get it. Please contact me threw aim or yahoo so we can talk about the problem further. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

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