Another problem could be that a lot of these boards in radios and other equipment that hooks into your RCA's has little bitty fuses on them. When you just barley accidentally touch that positive prong of your RCA to the negative "jacket," while there is a signal (or sometimes not), it can blow those fuses and cause insurmountable grief. Mid to low level Pioneers are notorious for this. Have you tried (and I hate do thing this) grounding your RCA's?

^^^ it is true i use it in 100K dollar VFD's all the time on rs-232 conectors. cannot see why it would not work for your application

If you are talking about picto fuses I have only seen them in pioneer premier head units.

Ok... Sorry no pics yet but.. I think I solved, well not really solved but I got rid of the problem. I hooked up the Inputs from the Bose Head Unit to a Passive In-Line Converter "Scosche SLC4" I've had one laying around for years and have never used it.

Disconnected the RE-Q. The RE-Q i have is the 3 channel version. No Noise at all. Ran the engine turned on all the lights, A/C etc... It sounds crystal clear and louder than it did with the RE-Q.

With RE-Q i had to turn up to 40-50% to hear sound. Now i start to hear sound at the first dot.

I need to get one more Converter for the Sub channel and I'll call it good. I cranked it up and didn't notice any fade in the bass or high frequencies which leads me to believe all the EQ saftey crap is that happened before is taking place at the stock amp. Exactly the same things I've read on the G37 forums and 350Z forms about the the Stock HU.

I don't know what the heck is wrong with RE-Q. I checked all my grounds and they were all reading less than .5 ohms which to my understanding is perfect. I wouldn't doubt the it was defective. The only authorized dealer in Tucson is the one audio store i hate "Audio Express" and took a chance of buying something there thinking i wouldn't have any problems.

I swear I honestly think they sell you crappy equipment if you don't purchase their "Extra Protection Plan" I've purchased a couple amps there one with the protection on without. Needless to say the one without the protection crapped out within a month. The one with the protection...it's still working today after 10 years.

Anyhow I appreciate all your guys' help. I feel much relief now that i have no whining.

As soon as everything is back mounted and put together I'll post some pictures.

Thanks again everyone :)

If you don't know/understand/or just plain get it.... google it.


Ferrite Cores for RFI Suppression


Cylindrical EMI suppression with ferrite cores

+1

As I said before the bose system dose that to the signal than sends it out. You need to try a different place to get your power and check your grounds. I keep reiterating that. The power wire should not be connected to your fuse block.

If that's true, then one could replace everything but the head unit for those with Bose....

Hmmm.....

I'm really really really interested in this thread and how it all came out. Would love to see some pics and get info about how it all sounds put together.

-William

Yes as I have said before you can keep your factory head unit you just have to invest in some other stuff to make it work with your aftermarket amps and all. Anything is possible with enough money. I personally would rather have a new head unit and everything running directly from it. That way everything is working with no variables such as the re-q or the jl clean sweep.

I love all the info you give out here, it's always detailed which is great for audio idiots like me, but the only reason I like this idea a little better than replacing everything is keeping existing nav, bluetooth, and the stock look. So I definately cant wait to see this finished and if the OP is willing a review on the sound as well as approximate cost he put into the new equipment.

-William

No one is an idiot in my book. I look at people that do not know things and they are not idiots they are just uneducated about the task at hand.

Ok... Everything is all put back together and working fine. 0 Engine Noise.

[ Bose Head Unit ] Has 4 Channels FL/FR/RL/RR (Full Range)
Those 4 channels go into the [Stock Bose Amp]
Stock Bose Amp crossedover with 7 Channels 2 Tweeters/2 Mids/2 Rears and 1 Sub.

Bose Head Unit goes into a 4 channel Line Out Converter
-Front Channels goes to Amp 1 (RF Punch 600@4) Running Focals 165VS Bridged (300 watts aprox)
-Rear Channels go to Amp 2 (RF Punch 250.1) powering 1 12" Armegeddon MSeries (500watts @ 2ohms) So now my fader works as a Bass Volume Control.

I can tell I need some more EQ control and will probably get RF 3Sixty.2 to help out with that. But as far as SQ it's not bad and way better than Stock. Kind of hard to make fine tune adjustments with only Bass and Treble +/-

The Engine noise, I am going to blame on the a faulty RE-Q because I have 0 noise now. No popping, no hissing, no whining, nothing.

For those of you looking into upgrading the the sound in the Bose System and keep the headunit it can be done and there a few different ways it appears you can do it.

Stock Bose:
Adding Sub&Amp Only
-Easiest Way - Take the Output Sub Signals from the Bose Amp to a LOC or RE-Q

New Speakers Amp & Sub -
-Option 1 - Take the outputs (7 Channels) from the Bose Amp Sum them together using Cleansweep, AudioControl RE-Q5 etc...Hook up to amps
-Option 2 - Take Inputs from Bose Headunit that go into the Bose Amp (4 full range channels) to a LOC (no need for a summing device) and hook up to amps.

Pics coming soon.

Sigh" It is not a faulty re-q you just needed to find a different place to get power from you are not suppose to get it from the block. You are suppose to get it from a power wire like behind the dash or somewhere in the fuse block. It was not faulty at all people encounter engine noise all the time and than they start moving the ground and power wires to a different conection or the rca wires until it goes away.

:iagree::iagree: Both you and bigaudiofanat are correct. The noise is probably caused by a ground or a power wire. Sometimes you hook up something and get engine noise. A lot of people think that it is automatically a faulty unit. This is usually not the true case. It is were the power is coming from and how it is getting to the unit that usually has a noise in the power wire. In your case Bigaudio is right you should not of had the power wire hooked up tot he dis block. It should be hooked up to a wire in the fuse block or behind the head unit. Getting power directly from a power wire coming for them engine bay has tons of interference in it, that your re-q probably amplified. I also think that you should put it back in. The re-q dose so much more than your line converter and the boes is still messing with the signal before your amps are getting it. That is why you are saying that you are only hearing a bit better sound quality and not a lot. Keep up the good work bigaudio and I can see that speed know some stuff as well. Glad you know each other big and speed.