removable sub

[imag]

I was thinking that I would like to go ahead with a sound system upgrade over the base stereo, and I would like to have a sub. The catch is that I want it to be easily removable for track days.

Do you have any ideas for locations (probably the spare tire well) and components? Is there any good quick-disconnect hardware out there that is designed to be used repeatedly? Do you have any tips for box construction?

I'd like it to be invisible when installed, just because I live in Oakland and I'd prefer the car not get broken into. Any ideas welcome! I would love to have 500W-1000W and really high quality components (although audiophile stuff doesn't make sense in this car without noise reduction)

Thanks much!

[bigaudiofanat]

Easiest way to do this is a z enclosure box. All you do is pull it out unhook the wires and your done. I know it would not be invisible but would be a lot better than any hidden sub under your trunk floor.

[imag]

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Easiest way to do this is a z enclosure box. All you do is pull it out unhook the wires and your done. I know it would not be invisible but would be a lot better than any hidden sub under your trunk floor.

I hear you... the problem is I park on the street in Oakland. There is no way I can leave a sub box out in the car overnight. That means I would have to bring it out to the car every single time I want to use it

[bigaudiofanat]

LOL true but if you are going to want hi fi audio and have close to 1000 watts of power for your audio you are not only going to want a nice size box and sub but also to dynamat your car. I am not sure what other options. I know a lot of the boxes I have seen in the spare tire area are using the JL slim sub "not a fan" and some are ported "not good for SQ" I will try to think of something for you.

Ever think of tint for your back windows?

[imag]

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

LOL true but if you are going to want hi fi audio and have close to 1000 watts of power for your audio you are not only going to want a nice size box and sub but also to dynamat your car. I am not sure what other options. I know a lot of the boxes I have seen in the spare tire area are using the JL slim sub "not a fan" and some are ported "not good for SQ" I will try to think of something for you.

Ever think of tint for your back windows?

Thanks for thinking about it - hopefully it's an interesting problem. I wonder if I could do 2-3 8" subs or something like that. It's interesting that you don't like the JL slim.

I know what you mean on dynamat. To me, the car won't ever sound great without 100 extra lbs of sound dampening. My goal is for it to sound undistorted at decent volume with the windows down at highway speed. Even in that environment, I have my audiophile tendencies - I don't need perfect imaging (obviously), but crappy ported Kicker noise is just not what I will be happy with.

Tinting the windows could work... I was hoping to leave cargo room open for the occasional trip, but that might be the best route...

[speedfreak28]

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

LOL true but if you are going to want hi fi audio and have close to 1000 watts of power for your audio you are not only going to want a nice size box and sub but also to dynamat your car. I am not sure what other options. I know a lot of the boxes I have seen in the spare tire area are using the JL slim sub "not a fan" and some are ported "not good for SQ" I will try to think of something for you.

Ever think of tint for your back windows?

Where did you make this information up at?

[bigaudiofanat]

No problem, if you have any more questions just ask.

I would like JL a lot more if they where more reasonably priced. But because they decide to charge more than others "does not mean they are better" you can get the same or better stuff for the same or less price from other manufactures.

[bigaudiofanat]

Ported subs are bassy and dragged out even when tuned properly. A sealed enclosure will help you have tight accurate bass.

[ConchZ2]

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Ported subs are bassy and dragged out even when tuned properly. A sealed enclosure will help you have tight accurate bass.

That’s incorrect.................
A sealed sub will have a gradual roll off as frequency decreases.
A ported sub will give you more output down to its tuning frequency.

[Division]

All things considered, you're probably looking for something to replace the spare tire. With the spare tire removed, you have between 7" and 8" of depth to play with, which doesn't leave you many speaker options. The option I'm most fond of at the moment is 2fast4thelaw's JL13W5 installation (see his thread here) Something similar will give you the stealth look you're looking for, with the potential of being removable for track days.

There are a number of other shallow mount sub options available that serve as alternate's to the JL13W5, but you get what you pay for. JL makes quality gear, as do a number of other manufactures. As we all know, when you starting trying to achieve 'perfection', cost increases exponentially compared to 'what you get'. Achieving 80% may cost $10, 90% will cost $100, and 95% $1000 (and so on...), its up to you to determine what you need. This holds just as much weight in vehicles, as it does in audio. JL tends to be on the higher end of both price and performance, however you can get 'similar' performance for less money if you so desire. The Pioneer and Elemental Designs low profile subs come to mind.

Basically only you can break out your scales- Is keeping the spare tire important? Can I put a visible sub in the back hatch area? Do want higher quality components, or can I settle for less? Once you weigh everything, your choice will be simple.

edit rant removed.

[ConchZ2]

Originally Posted by Division

All things considered, you're probably looking for something to replace the spare tire. With the spare tire removed, you have between 7" and 8" of depth to play with, which doesn't leave you many speaker options. The option I'm most fond of at the moment is 2fast4thelaw's JL13W5 installation (see his thread here) Something similar will give you the stealth look you're looking for, with the potential of being removable for track days.

There are a number of other shallow mount sub options available that serve as alternate's to the JL13W5, but you get what you pay for. JL makes quality gear, as do a number of other manufactures. As we all know, when you starting trying to achieve 'perfection', cost increases exponentially compared to 'what you get'. Achieving 80% may cost $10, 90% will cost $100, and 95% $1000 (and so on...), its up to you to determine what you need. This holds just as much weight in vehicles, as it does in audio. JL tends to be on the higher end of both price and performance, however you can get 'similar' performance for less money if you so desire. The Pioneer and Elemental Designs low profile subs come to mind.

Basically only you can break out your scales- Is keeping the spare tire important? Can I put a visible sub in the back hatch area? Do want higher quality components, or can I settle for less? Once you weigh everything, your choice will be simple.

edit rant removed.

I totally agree with you………………

[ConchZ2]

Division………….it’s hilarious how the truth gets edited!!
You left out the Civic!!

[imag]

Originally Posted by Division

All things considered, you're probably looking for something to replace the spare tire. With the spare tire removed, you have between 7" and 8" of depth to play with, which doesn't leave you many speaker options. The option I'm most fond of at the moment is 2fast4thelaw's JL13W5 installation (see his thread here) Something similar will give you the stealth look you're looking for, with the potential of being removable for track days.

That is *exactly* what I want, with provisions for easy removal. I wonder if I can even build in some of the sound insulation onto the enclosure rather than the car.

It sounds like he's happy with the JL 13.5". I'm not worried about the money for the sub - if I'm going to do this, I want to do it right. My understanding of those subs is that they have to have exactly the right volume enclosure - any deviation totally screws them up. 2Fast did it right.

Anyway, thanks for posting - I don't know how I missed that thread!

As far as ported vs. non, everyone knows Big is correct. Sealed is always the choice if sound *quality* is the top priority. That doesn't mean ported doesn't get you more volume, or decent (even excellent) sound if designed correctly, but for flat response, sealed is ideal.

[ConchZ2]

Originally Posted by imag

That is *exactly* what I want, with provisions for easy removal. I wonder if I can even build in some of the sound insulation onto the enclosure rather than the car.

It sounds like he's happy with the JL 13.5". I'm not worried about the money for the sub - if I'm going to do this, I want to do it right. My understanding of those subs is that they have to have exactly the right volume enclosure - any deviation totally screws them up. 2Fast did it right.

Anyway, thanks for posting - I don't know how I missed that thread!

As far as ported vs. non, everyone knows Big is correct. Sealed is always the choice if sound *quality* is the top priority. That doesn't mean ported doesn't get you more volume, or decent (even excellent) sound if designed correctly, but for flat response, sealed is ideal.

A few people think he is correct………………..just google

[Division]

Originally Posted by imag

That is *exactly* what I want, with provisions for easy removal. I wonder if I can even build in some of the sound insulation onto the enclosure rather than the car.

Actually owning a Z, I can comment here. With the in cabin noise at the levels it is (it is a sports car afterall) it would take a large amount of dampening to have an overall impact on sound quality. Yes - adding some will help... but no more than turning up the volume. The car is solid and well put together, I don't have a problem with rattles- its the road noise that's a killer. Since you'll probably be removing the foam blocks to put the sub in, adding a few layers of ensolite fabric might not be a bad idea. It'll keep you from having layers of butyl like material (edead, rammatt, dynamat, etc) and probably keep you at stock NVH levels, if not a slight improvement. Plus, you can easily roll it up and take it out on track days.