Round spare tire Subwoofer enclosure, Kenwood Excelon DNX690HD head unit install

Maximum RPM · 06-29-2013, 11:38 AM

Here is my car audio install. I had a zero compromise rule with this install. My number one rule was that the system must look really cool and clean and must only be heard and not seen except for the head unit of course. As all of us know there is limited space in the hatch area so I didn’t want to loose any space to a subwoofer. I looked at everything from Wicked CAS, Z Enclosures, local brick and mortar stores to custom installs but nothing allowed for that total stealth look I was looking for and allow me to keep my spare tire. I decided that the best thing to do was to make my own subwoofer box. When I planned for the install I preordered two Kicker 8” subs for an install in the smaller enclosure area just ahead of the spare tire area. In the end that space didn’t allow for enough room and there were too many wires to work around and I couldn’t get enough cubic volume in the box. So, I went back to the drawing board. I looked at every sub out there. I wanted at least a 10” woofer but it needed to be no deeper than 3” total depth if I wanted to keep my spare tire. I decided on the Pioneer TS-SW2501S4. It had the size and dimensions I needed to complete the job the way I wanted.
To build the sub box I went to my local Hardware store and purchased sheets of MDF board, screws, liquid nail and of course a roto zip tool for cutting the circles. I started with a ¼ sheet of MDF on the bottom cut to 16 ½ inches. Followed by four ¾ inch MDF sheets cut to 16 ½ inches on the outside with an inner diameter cut to 15 ¾. The next piece I cut was a ¼ sheet of MDF cut to the diameter of the spare tire opening. In the ¼ MDF I cut the opening for the sub to sit in. The next sheet I cut was a ¾ inch to sit on top of the ¼ inch sheet. This sheet levels up the sub and gives it a nice clean flat flush look. I then glued and screwed all pieces together except for the last one I just screwed it in on top so I can easily take apart to access the spare tire. I then drilled a small hole in the bottom of the sub box screwed in a bolt on the bottom threw the spare tire and into the car to hold the sub in place. I connected the speaker wire, installed the subwoofer and put the top on the sub box and put the hatch back together. When it was complete with the carpet in place the sub disappears from view.
The amplifier I got was the Rockford Fosgate Punch P500X4D. It had the dimensions I needed and the power I wanted. The head unit I choose was the Kenwood DNX-690HD. It also had all the features I was looking for like navigation, bluetooth, XM radio and HD Radio.
What a journey it has been. I spent five weekends perfecting this install. I bought a lot of product and returned a lot of product. In the end I am very pleased with the way it turned out. As with all things I am not done. I am having the windows tinted, Ill be upgrading the component door speakers soon,. Ill be putting butterfly doors on and getting some leather seats down the road.

Maximum RPM · 06-29-2013, 11:46 AM

Here is the amp fuse assembly holder I made to fit in the Battery area.

Maximum RPM · 06-29-2013, 11:50 AM

Here are some pictures of the amplifier install.

Maximum RPM · 06-29-2013, 11:51 AM

I placed the USB port in the center arm rest.

Maximum RPM · 06-29-2013, 11:53 AM

Some final pictures of the completed head unit and install.

snowsurfdirtx · 06-29-2013, 05:37 PM

GREAT job. Turned out very clean and professional.

bigaudiofanat · 06-29-2013, 05:39 PM

Nice job on the fuse holder I like it!. Great install as well.

Shadezz · 06-30-2013, 12:37 AM

Looks great..Nice install buddy!!

red z · 06-30-2013, 01:01 AM

ummm could u build me one?! lol

Cbtech · 07-01-2013, 03:44 PM

Well done.

Brad370 · 01-13-2014, 10:27 AM

How did you secure the amplifier wooden support to the frame of the car so it doesn't bounce around?

fuct · 01-13-2014, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximum RPM

Here is my car audio install. I had a zero compromise rule with this install. My number one rule was that the system must look really cool and clean and must only be heard and not seen except for the head unit of course. As all of us know there is limited space in the hatch area so I didn’t want to loose any space to a subwoofer. I looked at everything from Wicked CAS, Z Enclosures, local brick and mortar stores to custom installs but nothing allowed for that total stealth look I was looking for and allow me to keep my spare tire. I decided that the best thing to do was to make my own subwoofer box. When I planned for the install I preordered two Kicker 8” subs for an install in the smaller enclosure area just ahead of the spare tire area. In the end that space didn’t allow for enough room and there were too many wires to work around and I couldn’t get enough cubic volume in the box. So, I went back to the drawing board. I looked at every sub out there. I wanted at least a 10” woofer but it needed to be no deeper than 3” total depth if I wanted to keep my spare tire. I decided on the Pioneer TS-SW2501S4. It had the size and dimensions I needed to complete the job the way I wanted.
To build the sub box I went to my local Hardware store and purchased sheets of MDF board, screws, liquid nail and of course a roto zip tool for cutting the circles. I started with a ¼ sheet of MDF on the bottom cut to 16 ½ inches. Followed by four ¾ inch MDF sheets cut to 16 ½ inches on the outside with an inner diameter cut to 15 ¾. The next piece I cut was a ¼ sheet of MDF cut to the diameter of the spare tire opening. In the ¼ MDF I cut the opening for the sub to sit in. The next sheet I cut was a ¾ inch to sit on top of the ¼ inch sheet. This sheet levels up the sub and gives it a nice clean flat flush look. I then glued and screwed all pieces together except for the last one I just screwed it in on top so I can easily take apart to access the spare tire. I then drilled a small hole in the bottom of the sub box screwed in a bolt on the bottom threw the spare tire and into the car to hold the sub in place. I connected the speaker wire, installed the subwoofer and put the top on the sub box and put the hatch back together. When it was complete with the carpet in place the sub disappears from view.
The amplifier I got was the Rockford Fosgate Punch P500X4D. It had the dimensions I needed and the power I wanted. The head unit I choose was the Kenwood DNX-690HD. It also had all the features I was looking for like navigation, bluetooth, XM radio and HD Radio.
What a journey it has been. I spent five weekends perfecting this install. I bought a lot of product and returned a lot of product. In the end I am very pleased with the way it turned out. As with all things I am not done. I am having the windows tinted, Ill be upgrading the component door speakers soon,. Ill be putting butterfly doors on and getting some leather seats down the road.

i loved everything about this post until i read that last part....

(nice box though!!)

RonRizz · 01-13-2014, 06:24 PM

Looks good. Nice work.

Maximum RPM · 01-14-2014, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad370

How did you secure the amplifier wooden support to the frame of the car so it doesn't bounce around?

I bolted the sub down to the spare tire mounting bracket.

Brad370 · 01-14-2014, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximum RPM

I bolted the sub down to the spare tire mounting bracket.

Not the sub, the board that the amplifier is mounted on. How is that mounted?

06-29-2013, 05:37 PM	#6 (permalink)
snowsurfdirtx Enthusiast Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: WA Posts: 285 Drives: Too Fast Rep Power: 13	GREAT job. Turned out very clean and professional. Maximum RPM likes this.

06-29-2013, 05:39 PM	#7 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Nice job on the fuse holder I like it!. Great install as well. Maximum RPM likes this. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

06-30-2013, 12:37 AM	#8 (permalink)
Shadezz Track Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Colorado Age: 43 Posts: 896 Drives: 2012 Nissan 370Z Rep Power: 14	Looks great..Nice install buddy!! Maximum RPM likes this. __________________ 2012 370Z BLACK EDITION/ FLT BLK Rays / 5% 3M Tint / DW's / Z1 SS & 2 Piece Rotors Nismo S-Tune OEM / Beluga CBE & Y-PIPE / DDX370 / GTR Start .4 Fluid / NST Blue Kit

07-01-2013, 03:44 PM	#10 (permalink)
Cbtech A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,372 Drives: 40th Anniversary Rep Power: 15	Well done. Maximum RPM likes this. __________________ Are U in Sacramento or Central Valley California? Click here! Foglight Hardwire in less than 10 minutes! DIY: Automatic VDC off

01-13-2014, 06:24 PM	#13 (permalink)
RonRizz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Pine grove, Pa Posts: 2,136 Drives: 2 feet, 3 pedals Rep Power: 6775	Looks good. Nice work. __________________ P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals

06-30-2013, 01:01 AM	#9 (permalink)
red z Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia Posts: 58 Drives: 2012 Black 370Z M6 Rep Power: 16	ummm could u build me one?! lol

01-13-2014, 10:27 AM	#11 (permalink)
Brad370 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: online Posts: 102 Drives: car Rep Power: 14	How did you secure the amplifier wooden support to the frame of the car so it doesn't bounce around?

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