Round spare tire Subwoofer enclosure, Kenwood Excelon DNX690HD head unit install
 

Here is my car audio install. I had a zero compromise rule with this install. My number one rule was that the system must look really cool and clean and must only be heard and not seen except for the head unit of course. As all of us know there is limited space in the hatch area so I didn’t want to loose any space to a subwoofer. I looked at everything from Wicked CAS, Z Enclosures, local brick and mortar stores to custom installs but nothing allowed for that total stealth look I was looking for and allow me to keep my spare tire. I decided that the best thing to do was to make my own subwoofer box. When I planned for the install I preordered two Kicker 8” subs for an install in the smaller enclosure area just ahead of the spare tire area. In the end that space didn’t allow for enough room and there were too many wires to work around and I couldn’t get enough cubic volume in the box. So, I went back to the drawing board. I looked at every sub out there. I wanted at least a 10” woofer but it needed to be no deeper than 3” total depth if I wanted to keep my spare tire. I decided on the Pioneer TS-SW2501S4. It had the size and dimensions I needed to complete the job the way I wanted.
To build the sub box I went to my local Hardware store and purchased sheets of MDF board, screws, liquid nail and of course a roto zip tool for cutting the circles. I started with a ¼ sheet of MDF on the bottom cut to 16 ½ inches. Followed by four ¾ inch MDF sheets cut to 16 ½ inches on the outside with an inner diameter cut to 15 ¾. The next piece I cut was a ¼ sheet of MDF cut to the diameter of the spare tire opening. In the ¼ MDF I cut the opening for the sub to sit in. The next sheet I cut was a ¾ inch to sit on top of the ¼ inch sheet. This sheet levels up the sub and gives it a nice clean flat flush look. I then glued and screwed all pieces together except for the last one I just screwed it in on top so I can easily take apart to access the spare tire. I then drilled a small hole in the bottom of the sub box screwed in a bolt on the bottom threw the spare tire and into the car to hold the sub in place. I connected the speaker wire, installed the subwoofer and put the top on the sub box and put the hatch back together. When it was complete with the carpet in place the sub disappears from view.
The amplifier I got was the Rockford Fosgate Punch P500X4D. It had the dimensions I needed and the power I wanted. The head unit I choose was the Kenwood DNX-690HD. It also had all the features I was looking for like navigation, bluetooth, XM radio and HD Radio.
What a journey it has been. I spent five weekends perfecting this install. I bought a lot of product and returned a lot of product. In the end I am very pleased with the way it turned out. As with all things I am not done. I am having the windows tinted, Ill be upgrading the component door speakers soon,. Ill be putting butterfly doors on and getting some leather seats down the road.

Here is the amp fuse assembly holder I made to fit in the Battery area.

Here are some pictures of the amplifier install.

I placed the USB port in the center arm rest.

Some final pictures of the completed head unit and install.

GREAT job. Turned out very clean and professional.

Nice job on the fuse holder I like it!. Great install as well.

Looks great..Nice install buddy!!

ummm could u build me one?! lol :icon18:

Well done.

How did you secure the amplifier wooden support to the frame of the car so it doesn't bounce around?

i loved everything about this post until i read that last part....:shakes head:


(nice box though!!)

Looks good. Nice work.

I bolted the sub down to the spare tire mounting bracket.

Not the sub, the board that the amplifier is mounted on. How is that mounted?

Sorry, I mounted it with 3M automotive tape and bolted the wood down with one of the threaded studs in the back cavity to give it better hold.

Nice job on the enclosure. I like the way it sits... Is there a grille for the sub?

What is the maximum depth if anyone knows off hand for the Spare Tire to top of foam for a custom enclosure on a BASE 370z since my spare is diff than the OP. I'm in the process of Fiberglassing an enclosure that sits in the Spare, and is flush with the foam board w/ carpet. However having a tough time getting an accurate measurement for the depth of the sub that I would need to buy. I'm leaning to a Polk DB Shallow Mount or a RF Shallow 12" or something like that. Advice is welcome. Thanks. and to the OP nice job on the MDF creation.

I have a Nismo also so I can't give you exactly what you want. But for my enclosure I laid a level across the foam piece and measured down from there to the spare tire. Measure the carpet separately.

Difference in base spare and Enkei
 

Osirus, the difference in wheel backspacing between Enkei wheel in OPs post and the steel base wheel is 1.18". That gives extra depth for speaker and larger volume for enclosure.

Nice work. I am liking the amp install location. And you have a PM!

Thanks for that, which means in total, I'm looking at 5 1/4" to 5 1/2" in total depth from foam to bottom of the backspacing metal of the spare. I think this project will come out fantastic. Shouts out to DIY section for ideas.

sub box
 

hello can you built me one of the sub boxes? PM PLEASE.

I went with an 8" sub and couldn't be happier. Did the backup camera and dynamat at the same time so my whole system is now complete. Thanks for the inspiration!

Did you end up cutting your stock carpet? If so, have any pics of how it turned out?

That turned out great,congratulations. I didnt cut my carpet, I just covered it up. When I built my box I recessed it 3/4" into the box to allow travel of the sub.

I love this idea but my concern here is; you're saving the spare tire right? But if you need the tire for a flat to have to take the whole sub apart to get to the tire. Seems terribly inconvenient when on the side of the road. Our is it for resale value?

Resale value, save trunk space, stock look, plus it's damn sexy imo. It's only 6 screws to get the sub out and Nissan provides you with a screwdriver with your jack & tow hook. It's way more of a pain to get the car jacked up and the tire swapped out on the side of the car than to stand behind it and undo a couple screws.