K-Town 370z install

Juleous · 08-24-2010, 07:45 PM

I thought I would start a thread tracking my install, I am doing the system myself. I am going for most bang for the buck, doing the system in two stages first stage. Power infrastructure, amp rack, and sub upgrade to factory Bose system.

For me the most important thing straight away is get some more thump, so I am doing the sub upgrade first. Then I will collect everything to do the full system change out, the most expensive part also so that will wait for now.

I have taken some pics here to show the progress, the sub upgrade is very easily DIY with minimal tear down.

To start with here is the factory bose setup.

Here is the amp rack making space for the new Alpine 1000watt mono amp.

Here is the new 150amp stinger 4gauge amp wire kit.

This is where I pulled the power wire through the firewall, there was a grommet behind the battery.

Routing the power wire, the door trim pulls up starting at the weather stip. Harder than I thought it would be.

Fishing for a power wire anyone? Got's to love the old fish tape, easily routed the 4gauge power wire with no problems.

No problem getting this wire through.

Finished product, need a little touch up paint on the bare patch.

yellowZ · 08-27-2010, 02:57 PM

Question - does the Bose amp in the back only power the sub? Or all the speakers? I see that you removed it & replaced it with your 1000watt amp (cool). Will you need to retain the amp to power the door speakers?
Kevin

(edit) - looking more closely at your last pic - perhaps you just repositioned the Bose amp to the corner?

kenchan · 08-27-2010, 03:29 PM

on my G's bose the rear amp powers all speakers.

Juleous · 08-27-2010, 03:49 PM

Your looking at the Bose amp, I never removed just moved it from factory location so I could mount my new Hifonics Brutus amp.

The Bose amp powers every speaker in the car, I am adding the Re-Q taping off the factory speaker wires so I can run my new amp at the same time I run the factory bose for the stock speakers less the crap sub. I will run this setup while I compile all the parts necessary to remove the Bose completely from the car.

yellowZ · 08-27-2010, 09:55 PM

@ Juleous

Thanks for the clarification - I am doing the same, except I'm not sure I'll remove the bose headunit or amp completely in the end. I've got to find a head unit that satisfies my need for a completely neutral look and incorporates the steering wheel's bluetooth controls.

Kevin

jikhead · 08-30-2010, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juleous

The Bose amp powers every speaker in the car,

There is actually another tiny amp inside the sub box. Check my photos in this post...the amp is tiny.

bose sub question

Juleous · 08-31-2010, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

There is actually another tiny amp inside the sub box. Check my photos in this post...the amp is tiny.

bose sub question

Nice did not know that, that explains why the additional wires in the sub plug. Either case the two sub wires I tapped off were directly from the main amp goin to the bose sub, those two wires then are going over to the Re-Q to supply the base signal.

Thanks for the additional info.

jikhead · 08-31-2010, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juleous

Nice did not know that, that explains why the additional wires in the sub plug. Either case the two sub wires I tapped off were directly from the main amp goin to the bose sub, those two wires then are going over to the Re-Q to supply the base signal.

Thanks for the additional info.

You are correct, I did the same thing with my AudioControl LC6.

Ronin06 · 06-04-2015, 08:50 PM

First off thanks to everyone who posts pics, questions, how-to, etc. It's been many years since I've done car audio, so I find this very helpful.

In the picture I am thinking of relocating the item circled. Looks like it's just a connector for the amp or TEL adapter. Anyone have knowledge to the contrary?

kenchan · 08-27-2010, 03:52 PM

sounds good. looks like a fun project indeed.

bigaudiofanat · 08-27-2010, 10:12 PM

Every head unit can do all that the blue tooth and all but you can not use the bose blue tooth mic on any of the new head units you have to use the new one. You also just have to have a adapter to use the steering wheel controls.

Juleous · 08-27-2010, 10:31 PM

I am curious how the sub upgrade is going to satisfy my need for more power. Maybe I will be satisfied enough not to bother upgrading the rest of the system, probably not though.

bigaudiofanat · 08-27-2010, 10:46 PM

Ya once you start you will probably want to upgrade the rest.

Juleous · 08-28-2010, 08:08 PM

After ordering the Hifonics Brutus 1700 I had to make a little more room, the BRZ1200 would have fit but I couldn't resist for an extra $10 I got 400 more watts. Good deal me thinks.

Hardly notice the amp even there, no problem getting the spare out.

The addition of the new MTX Re-Q lot's of room now for Brutus!

Testing the Re-Q everything working fine, no need for ACC turn on the Smart Engage works just fine in the Z

Juleous · 08-28-2010, 08:15 PM

Those ugly holes drive me nuts in the pics, when I place the amp in there all the holes will be covered up. This amp rack will be replaced when I remove the bose crap for a fresh one.

I was thinking about cutting in some plexiglass windows into the Zenclosure so I can see the nice glowing Hifonics logo, it's a really nice blue LED color.

08-24-2010, 07:45 PM	#1 (permalink)
Juleous Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nowhere Posts: 335 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	K-Town 370z install I thought I would start a thread tracking my install, I am doing the system myself. I am going for most bang for the buck, doing the system in two stages first stage. Power infrastructure, amp rack, and sub upgrade to factory Bose system. For me the most important thing straight away is get some more thump, so I am doing the sub upgrade first. Then I will collect everything to do the full system change out, the most expensive part also so that will wait for now. I have taken some pics here to show the progress, the sub upgrade is very easily DIY with minimal tear down. To start with here is the factory bose setup. Here is the amp rack making space for the new Alpine 1000watt mono amp. Here is the new 150amp stinger 4gauge amp wire kit. This is where I pulled the power wire through the firewall, there was a grommet behind the battery. Routing the power wire, the door trim pulls up starting at the weather stip. Harder than I thought it would be. Fishing for a power wire anyone? Got's to love the old fish tape, easily routed the 4gauge power wire with no problems. No problem getting this wire through. Finished product, need a little touch up paint on the bare patch. dboi941 likes this. Last edited by Juleous; 08-24-2010 at 07:49 PM.

08-27-2010, 02:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
yellowZ Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 77 Drives: Nissan 370Z - Yellow Rep Power: 16	Question - does the Bose amp in the back only power the sub? Or all the speakers? I see that you removed it & replaced it with your 1000watt amp (cool). Will you need to retain the amp to power the door speakers? Kevin (edit) - looking more closely at your last pic - perhaps you just repositioned the Bose amp to the corner? Last edited by yellowZ; 08-27-2010 at 02:59 PM.

08-27-2010, 10:12 PM	#11 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Every head unit can do all that the blue tooth and all but you can not use the bose blue tooth mic on any of the new head units you have to use the new one. You also just have to have a adapter to use the steering wheel controls. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

08-27-2010, 10:46 PM	#13 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Ya once you start you will probably want to upgrade the rest. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

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08-27-2010, 03:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	on my G's bose the rear amp powers all speakers.

08-27-2010, 03:49 PM	#4 (permalink)
Juleous Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nowhere Posts: 335 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	Your looking at the Bose amp, I never removed just moved it from factory location so I could mount my new Hifonics Brutus amp. The Bose amp powers every speaker in the car, I am adding the Re-Q taping off the factory speaker wires so I can run my new amp at the same time I run the factory bose for the stock speakers less the crap sub. I will run this setup while I compile all the parts necessary to remove the Bose completely from the car.

08-27-2010, 09:55 PM	#5 (permalink)
yellowZ Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 77 Drives: Nissan 370Z - Yellow Rep Power: 16	@ Juleous Thanks for the clarification - I am doing the same, except I'm not sure I'll remove the bose headunit or amp completely in the end. I've got to find a head unit that satisfies my need for a completely neutral look and incorporates the steering wheel's bluetooth controls. Kevin

08-27-2010, 03:52 PM	#10 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	sounds good. looks like a fun project indeed.

08-27-2010, 10:31 PM	#12 (permalink)
Juleous Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nowhere Posts: 335 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	I am curious how the sub upgrade is going to satisfy my need for more power. Maybe I will be satisfied enough not to bother upgrading the rest of the system, probably not though.

08-28-2010, 08:08 PM	#14 (permalink)
Juleous Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nowhere Posts: 335 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	After ordering the Hifonics Brutus 1700 I had to make a little more room, the BRZ1200 would have fit but I couldn't resist for an extra $10 I got 400 more watts. Good deal me thinks. Hardly notice the amp even there, no problem getting the spare out. The addition of the new MTX Re-Q lot's of room now for Brutus! Testing the Re-Q everything working fine, no need for ACC turn on the Smart Engage works just fine in the Z

08-28-2010, 08:15 PM	#15 (permalink)
Juleous Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nowhere Posts: 335 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	Those ugly holes drive me nuts in the pics, when I place the amp in there all the holes will be covered up. This amp rack will be replaced when I remove the bose crap for a fresh one. I was thinking about cutting in some plexiglass windows into the Zenclosure so I can see the nice glowing Hifonics logo, it's a really nice blue LED color.