Boss Outcast 5000 watt amp
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03-14-2013, 03:00 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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MY GOD...
No one needs this much power in a car... let alone a HOUSE... here are the specs on that amp... Amplifier Basics Amplifier Class: Class D Technology: Digital Number of Output Channels: 1 Max Power Ratings Total Power: 5000 Watts Max Power @ 1 Ohm: 5000 Watts x 1 Max Power @ 2 Ohms: 3500 Watts x 1 Max Power @ 2 Ohms, when strapped with same model amplifier: 10000 Watts RMS Power Ratings RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 2250 Watts x 1 Frequency Response: 50 to 150 Hz Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) @ RMS Output: 0.01% Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR): 100 dB Minimum Speaker Impedance: 1 Ohms Variable Low Pass Crossover: 50 to 150 Hz Dimensions: 2" x 18" x 11.5" Direct Link for this Amp |
03-14-2013, 03:09 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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I dont know what any of that means hahaha but sounds like a badass amp that needs to be in a strip club or something haha so I should go buy an amp and sub and wiring instead of using this amp?
Last edited by Tyler_370z; 03-14-2013 at 03:14 PM. |
03-14-2013, 03:24 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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Seriously bro, the amp in my car right now is like 250-300 RMS and it sounded great. This is wayyyyy over kill. I just sold my speakers so if you want my amp Im selling it for $100. |
03-14-2013, 03:32 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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I would suggest using a JL sub or another sub that can handle half the power of this amp and turn the gain up to only 1/4. 250 watts RMS is MORE than enough for this tiny car. Max Power @ 1 Ohm: 5000 Watts x 1 Max Power @ 2 Ohms: 3500 Watts x 1 Max Power @ 2 Ohms, when strapped with same model amplifier: 10000 Watts Last edited by Cbtech; 03-15-2013 at 03:53 PM. |
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03-14-2013, 05:52 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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Boss amps are not exactly quality. Never the less with that much power you need to make sure you run your sub at the proper level. Depending on what your sub is, it may be able to take the power your amp will put out. You have a gain knob on your amp that you will need to adjust when you install your amp and sub.
If the numbers and details above are confusing to you read up in this thread. Car Audio 101
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03-15-2013, 11:11 AM | #23 (permalink) | |
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But it's not very practical and it's not exactly hi-fi (but probably good enough for the ears of 90% of ppl and cars are a terrible sonic environment, so hi-fi is not that big of a deal). You're using a sledge hammer to drive a finishing nail. The power wires are supposed to 0AWG wire. That's some big wire that is going to be difficult to run and to hide. The amp will probably get quite hot, even when quiescent. &C, &c, &c. IMNSHO, your best bet would be to obtain an amp rated for approximately the same watts as your (sub)woofer can handle.
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03-15-2013, 01:30 PM | #25 (permalink) | |
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You should always try to get an amp that will either match the RMS numbers of your speakers or have slightly more power. i.e. Sub is 500 watts RMS and the amp is 550. This gives you piece of mind knowing that there is little chance of popping your speaker and you can tune it within your tastes. |
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03-15-2013, 03:39 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
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03-16-2013, 08:44 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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