Converter to plug into line that runs to Bose Sub?

Mitco39 · 02-07-2013, 01:55 PM

This is probably a shot in the dark, but does anyone make a plug that plugs into the end of the line that runs to the sub woofer in the truck and gives you RCA outs from it? Or alternatively taps into the lines before they hit the Bose amp in the trunk? Looking at this plug which comes from the HU to the Amp it appears that one could just tap in a line out converter before the signal hits the amp. I could also tap into the On signal from the HU.

Has anyone done this? if so what signal did you use? One of the Fronts I would imagine. I would just place a wire tap on the required wires and run them to a LOC so that I could retain the sound through both front speakers.

Anyone see any issues with this?

bigaudiofanat · 02-07-2013, 04:38 PM

Sadly to my knowledge there is not a direct plug in that converts to RCA's.

You can tear your bose sub apart pull the female plug out and modify it for the rca's, and run it to your LOC.

Or you can Tap into the full signal before it hits the amp, and run it to your LOC

DEpointfive0 · 02-07-2013, 04:43 PM

LOC=line out converter???

Mitco39 · 02-07-2013, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Sadly to my knowledge there is not a direct plug in that converts to RCA's.

You can tear your bose sub apart pull the female plug out and modify it for the rca's, and run it to your LOC.

Or you can Tap into the full signal before it hits the amp, and run it to your LOC

So would tapping into that plug I showed you give the desired effects? Its the plug that runs from the HU to the Amp before the signals get all messed up from the BOSE doing its thing? This would allow me to put the LOC in the trunk and keep everything right near the sub.

and yes LOC is a Line out Converter

bigaudiofanat · 02-07-2013, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

So would tapping into that plug I showed you give the desired effects? Its the plug that runs from the HU to the Amp before the signals get all messed up from the BOSE doing its thing? This would allow me to put the LOC in the trunk and keep everything right near the sub.

and yes LOC is a Line out Converter

Yes you can use the full range low level signal coming out of the head unit and get a full range signal.

Mitco39 · 02-07-2013, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Yes you can use the full range low level signal coming out of the head unit and get a full range signal.

Perfect thanks! I just wanted to confirm.

pfdaxe · 02-08-2013, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Looking at this plug which comes from the HU to the Amp it appears that one could just tap in a line out converter before the signal hits the amp. I could also tap into the On signal from the HU.

Actually, that plug looks like it's the "output" from the Bose amp. NOT the plug from the HU to the amp. You want to use the input wires on the other plug on the amp (should be connector M84 according the FSM for mine which is an '09).

I'm about to replace my fronts with Polk components (wanted cleaner highs) and will be using the low level Front + & - before the amp. Also, I won't be tapping the wires, rather cut them and solder/heat shrink the connections. I'm hoping that works as right now I have my sub/amp connected to the sub output wires going to the LOC and will need a full signal for the entire system.
.
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jpritche · 02-08-2013, 08:26 AM

I used the wires directly BEFORE where the wire connectore plugs into the sub. I have running in this way for 2 years now. No problems.

Is this where you were talking about pfdaxe?

pfdaxe · 02-08-2013, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpritche

I used the wires directly BEFORE where the wire connectore plugs into the sub. I have running in this way for 2 years now. No problems.

Is this where you were talking about pfdaxe?

For running just a sub amp? Yes, use the signal wires from the Bose amp to the Bose sub like you described (and what I use for my current set-up). For adding another amp for front speakers and running an entire system, sub and mids/highs, use the wires on the connector before the amp and connect to the LOC and disconnect the wires being used for the sub amp (since you can't use both). This should give you a full range signal. I will be trying that in the next few days.

**Matt will correct me if I'm wrong....lol
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jpritche · 02-08-2013, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pfdaxe

For running just a sub amp? Yes, use the signal wires from the Bose amp to the Bose sub like you described (and what I use for my current set-up). For adding another amp for front speakers and running an entire system, sub and mids/highs, use the wires on the connector before the amp and connect to the LOC and disconnect the wires being used for the sub amp (since you can't use both). This should give you a full range signal. I will be trying that in the next few days.

**Matt will correct me if I'm wrong....lol
.
.

Ahhh, got ya. Rep added.

Mitco39 · 02-08-2013, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pfdaxe

Actually, that plug looks like it's the "output" from the Bose amp. NOT the plug from the HU to the amp. You want to use the input wires on the other plug on the amp (should be connector M84 according the FSM for mine which is an '09).

I'm about to replace my fronts with Polk components (wanted cleaner highs) and will be using the low level Front + & - before the amp. Also, I won't be tapping the wires, rather cut them and solder/heat shrink the connections. I'm hoping that works as right now I have my sub/amp connected to the sub output wires going to the LOC and will need a full signal for the entire system.
.
.

B41 is the connector from the HU to the Amp

Mitco39 · 02-08-2013, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pfdaxe

For running just a sub amp? Yes, use the signal wires from the Bose amp to the Bose sub like you described (and what I use for my current set-up). For adding another amp for front speakers and running an entire system, sub and mids/highs, use the wires on the connector before the amp and connect to the LOC and disconnect the wires being used for the sub amp (since you can't use both). This should give you a full range signal. I will be trying that in the next few days.

**Matt will correct me if I'm wrong....lol
.
.

So I can plug an amp into the leads going straight to the subwoofer and use those? Even though they are already amplified? One would think you would get a bunch of distortion doing it this way no?

Thanks

pfdaxe · 02-08-2013, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

So I can plug an amp into the leads going straight to the subwoofer and use those? Even though they are already amplified? One would think you would get a bunch of distortion doing it this way no?

Thanks

You can use those wires (ONLY if you're just adding a sub and sub amp). But you have to disconnect/cut them (so they aren't connected to the Bose sub anymore) and connect them into an LOC before they go into an amp. This will give you a clean/flat signal so you can adjust it at the new amp.

pfdaxe · 02-08-2013, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Ah you are right, its B42 that I wanted.

I figured '10 would be a bit different (connector number)

Mitco39 · 02-08-2013, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pfdaxe

You can use those wires (ONLY if you're just adding a sub and sub amp). But you have to disconnect/cut them (so they aren't connected to the Bose sub anymore) and connect them into an LOC before they go into an amp. This will give you a clean/flat signal so you can adjust it at the new amp.

Ah yes I misunderstood your last post, this is what I was asking at the start minus taking it from the woofer signal. Take the Sub Woofer signal + and - between the HU and the Amp and run those to the LOC and then just use one channel to a monoblock amp to fire the aftermarket woofer.

02-07-2013, 01:55 PM	#1 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Converter to plug into line that runs to Bose Sub? This is probably a shot in the dark, but does anyone make a plug that plugs into the end of the line that runs to the sub woofer in the truck and gives you RCA outs from it? Or alternatively taps into the lines before they hit the Bose amp in the trunk? Looking at this plug which comes from the HU to the Amp it appears that one could just tap in a line out converter before the signal hits the amp. I could also tap into the On signal from the HU. Has anyone done this? if so what signal did you use? One of the Fronts I would imagine. I would just place a wire tap on the required wires and run them to a LOC so that I could retain the sound through both front speakers. Anyone see any issues with this? __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

02-07-2013, 04:38 PM	#2 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Sadly to my knowledge there is not a direct plug in that converts to RCA's. You can tear your bose sub apart pull the female plug out and modify it for the rca's, and run it to your LOC. Or you can Tap into the full signal before it hits the amp, and run it to your LOC __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

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02-07-2013, 04:43 PM	#3 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 Premium Member Bitches Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17151	LOC=line out converter???

02-08-2013, 08:26 AM	#8 (permalink)
jpritche A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Cartersville, Ga Age: 32 Posts: 2,570 Drives: '15 RR, '14 IS250 Rep Power: 31	I used the wires directly BEFORE where the wire connectore plugs into the sub. I have running in this way for 2 years now. No problems. Is this where you were talking about pfdaxe?