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What about this type of wiring/setup for base?

Since the base model only has front speakers, I was thinking of doing something like this: Kenwood or Clarion headunit with about 22 watts RMS per channel. Components in door

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Old 07-08-2009, 01:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default What about this type of wiring/setup for base?

Since the base model only has front speakers, I was thinking of doing something like this:

Kenwood or Clarion headunit with about 22 watts RMS per channel.
Components in door and dash
Powered sub somewhere in back.

Here's the real question. What if I wired the tweeters to the front channel outputs and the mids to the rear channel output since I have no real rears to power anyway? Any disadvantage to this?

Sub of course would use the sub output.
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You would blow them because there is no filter taking care of the freq that it can not produce. The only way you could do that is if you used a head unit that can go active which only as of now single dins can only do.
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My DDIN has an active crossover in it. I believe all the newer Kenwood units do.

Mine is the Kenwood DNX7140.

You can also pick up an external active crossover such as Kicker KX2 Active 2-Way Electronic Crossover at Crutchfield.com

The only issue I can see is trying to use a component system instead of getting individual tweeters and 6.5 inch woofers. The reason being that a component system is generally designed by the manufacturer to work with their crossover off of one input whereas the individual speakers would be designed to work on their own and would list the proper power handling and specs.

I had that kind of setup in a previous vehicle and to be honest, it sounded exactly the same as the component system I have now. If you want the control over the individual speakers, though, it would work well as long as you use the proper parts.
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Old 07-08-2009, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Forgive my ignorance, but when I was younger I never had the money for proper component speakers and my current vehicle has a Bose system in it that I haven't really altered.

I used to have a Thunderbird in high school and college that I put a Sony headunit in then connected Pioneer 2-way 6x8's front and rear (told ya I didn't have much money, and most of that was tied up in woofers and amp in trunk). Later I added some cheap tweeters to the front using a passive crossover and wiring in parallel with front speakers. Technically dropping the load to 2 ohms in the front if I remember correctly, but it ran that way for years without issue.

So components with their crossovers are designed to run on single channel is what I'm gathering?

The Kenwood units DO have a high pass built in for the speaker level outputs. What if...........I utilized the headunit high pass for both mids and tweeters then added a passive crossover (set even higher) in the line for the tweeters?

Hope this isn't a stupid question.
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It is possible to do some strange things with car stereo and still have it work, but you never know for how long or how well it will work.

Quote:
So components with their crossovers are designed to run on single channel is what I'm gathering?
Yep.

Quote:
The Kenwood units DO have a high pass built in for the speaker level outputs. What if...........I utilized the headunit high pass for both mids and tweeters then added a passive crossover (set even higher) in the line for the tweeters?
If you have the tweeters and mids on separate channels (i.e. tweets on front, mids on rear) you should be able to set them independently in the head unit, eliminating the need for a separate crossover.

If you buy a component set or tweets that come with crossovers there would be no need for a crossover in the head unit at all because the passive crossover that comes with the speakers will take care of it.
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Old 07-08-2009, 05:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Great!

Thanks for the help guys!
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