amp and wire question!
 

Hi everybody! If im going to be running 1 X New Kicker Cvr10 10" Sub Dual 4 Ohm 800 Watts (10cvr104)
1 X New Kicker Cvr10 10" Sub Dual 4 Ohm 800 Watts (10cvr104)
1 X Refurbished Kicker Dx1000.1 R Class D Amplifier 1 Ohm Stable 1000 Watts (10dx10001)

would running a 600 Watt Amp Kit Blue be enough for this system? and If i got 300 watt speakers for the doors would i need a separate amp or is that one good enough to run the speakers and subs?

Thanks!

Youre going to need a multi channel amp to run both sub and speakers or you can use a dedicated mono for the sub and a separate smaller multi for the speakers. I would suggest a Kicker ZX400.1 for the sub and a ZX200.2 for the speakers. A CVR 10 is only like 300W RMS which is what you need to look at when sizing amp. Dont look at peak power its worthless.

alright thanks, i bought a kit that comes with the 2 10s and this amp so will it be enough to power the two subs? and i guess ill just buy another amp for when i get speakers, and what kind of wire should i use for the current amp for the two subs? is a 600w wire enough?

Oh I didnt realize you have 2 10s that amp will be way more than enough make sure you keep the amp turned down so you dont blow those subs. I think they are 350rms or 400 and that amp is probably capable of 1100rms.
'600W wire' doesnt do me any good. Sorry buddy. I need to know the gauge. It should say it on the cable. 4 gauge is what you want for that set up.

1) Peak Watts _is_ important. That's what gives you the sharp attack (eg, the kick of a drum).

2) Wiring is rated in Amps, not Watts. Watts tells you next to nothing since, if the power remains the same, current will vary depending on the impedance of the speakers (and wiring).
You are looking for wire that will provide minimal voltage drop at the current your amp puts out. Use Ohm's Law and Joule's Law. You will need to compute current flow and use a ohm-per-foot chart to determine the resistance of your wire. From there you can compute voltage drop. Keep in mind that the smaller the gauge, the bigger the wire (eg, 10ga wire can handle more current than 14ga).
I've never used anything bigger than 12ga (most of your house wiring is 14-10ga) speaker wires in a car, but I can't remember wiring up a system with more than ~250W.

Basically, you answered your own question. Why would a 600 watt amp kit be big enough for a 1000 watt amp?
You need a Minimum of 4ga power and ground, and thats just for the mono amp. If you intend to add an amp for your front drivers, you will need bigger.
The safe bet is to go up to a 0ga amp kit.
Another issue I see is that that amp is not rated stable at 1 ohm (according to kickers website it is good to 2 ohm)
Your dual 4 ohm subs can be wired to present a 1 ohm, or a four ohm load at your amp. Since you cant run at 1 ohm, you have to go to 4ohm, which means your subs will be sharing 550 watts. That certainly isn't a bad thing, and should be plenty loud, and your amp will stay cooler pushing only a 4 ohm load.

Do some research about amplifier and subwoofer wiring before you decide to tackle the job, as well as on how to properly set amplifier gains.
I did a re-wire this weekend for a guy who hooked up his RE Audio XXX sub to a 2500 watt amp, and had the DVC's wired wrong. Smoked a $700 sub in less than a minute:shakes head:

thanks for all the help guys, and here is the exact kit i got KICKER CAR AUDIO 10" SUB 4 OHM TWO CVR10 SUBWOOFERS & DX1000.1 AMPLIFIER AMP | eBay
I think it comes with a 4 gauge wire, i will tell you when it comes in
do you guys think this is a good buy?
and i also got a Kenwood DNX6190HD headunit with a back up camera.

Does any one know any websites with wiring diagrams both for the sub and amp and how to wire a back up camera for the 370z!

Thank you for anyone that replays and sorry im asking so many questions, this is my first stereo system im putting in a car.

A 4 gauge knu konceptz or kicker hyperflex kit will suffice well. I would ditch the power wire it comes with especially if you are going to add a second amp down the line. You are not going to max out the draw of your amps. Once you set your gains you will probably be running a lot less. RMS power is much more important than "Peak power" all day.

Tell me if Im wrong but peak mainly applies to competitions correct?

"Busrts and burps" for competitions is one way the MAX is important, in some cases sudden bursts from drums (as mentioned) may peak higher however when a amp is tuned your not going to be anywhere near RMS nor the MAX of a amp.

do you know how to tune an amp to match the subs? and i also just ordered kicker component speakers Amazon.com: Kicker 11KS65.2 6.5 inch. Component Speaker System (Kicker KS652): Electronics

I am planing to hook them up to the headunit without an amp, should i run new wires for them or the stock ones fine?

Youre going to have a nice system real quick. Im jealous lol

For tuning the amp "the correct way is to use an oscilloscope". Not sure how to without one.
Personally I would run new wires for them. Just because after spending so much on the components it would be a bit of a waste to not go ahead and run new wires. JMO though.

you can set your gains with a multimeter.
RMS watts x resistance (ohms) then find the square root of the sum.
Thats your voltage output at the amp (with speakers connected) and head volume at 3/4.
O-scope would be the best way, but who the hell has access to one!! lol

Rms is a term that relates so the thermal handling capability of the driver at a continuous level.
Peak is a level that your driver can handle intermittently, as stated in other posts, and is typically double that of the Rms rating.

Also, you tune the amp to match the output level of the head unit, not the subs.

Ha Ive got three behind me. I also have an analog one that works. You can have it just pay shipping.