Can someone help me with the crossover settings for my system? I'm afraid I don't know as much as I should in this area. First off, what I have: Fronts:
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06-26-2009, 09:40 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Crossover Help
Can someone help me with the crossover settings for my system? I'm afraid I don't know as much as I should in this area. First off, what I have:
Fronts: OZ Audio 180CS (6.5 component speakers) Rears: JL C2-350X (3.5 coaxial) Sub: JL 10w1v2 Amp: JL 300/4 (powering front speakers and subwoofer) Headunit: Kenwood DNX7140 My question is do I need to do anything with the crossover settings? There are crossover settings on both the headunit and amp. Is one set better than the other? The amp has crossover settings for off/LP/HP and specific frequencies to filter above or below (based on whether you do HP or LP). Additionally, it has a slope to be set at 12dB or 24dB. The headunit has crossover settings which are a bit more complicated. Phase for subwoofer (normal or reverse - whatever that means??), then frequency and slope for each of the speaker sets (front, rear, sub). Do I use the filter on the amp and try to disable the one on the headunit, use the one on the headunit and disable the one on the amp or not use any/use both? Also, what slope do I use? Is that the same as the frequency filter on the amp and if so, what frequencies do I filter for HP and LP? Finally, the headunit manual says if I simply select the speaker size on the settings of the headunit, it will automatically select the crossover settings. Will that do it accurately? Sorry for all the information and questions. As you can see, I need some help. Thanks in advance. |
06-26-2009, 10:52 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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Normally the settings are head unit do not touch the amp is set to full and the crossovers for the woofer and the tweeter do the work for filtering out everything. Make sure to adjust your gains turn them down just a tad if the amp is giving the speakers there RMS "the "max" is just a joke". If you need more help just let me know.
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06-26-2009, 11:31 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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Just to be clear, you are saying turn the filters on the amp off and let the head until do all the filtering with its automatic settings (after I simply select the speaker size)?
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06-26-2009, 11:32 AM | #4 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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NO do not touch anything on the head unit and the amp put on full let the crossovers themselves to the filtering.
A lot of people that have the patience and all do something called going active. Which means you have no crossover and your tweeters are hook up directly to the amp and so are your woofers. They have there own dedicated channel and you control all the crossover frequency and hrz cut off's from the head unit. But you can not do that with your head unit. It gets rely complex LOL.
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06-26-2009, 11:48 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Well they probably do not unless you have upgraded them. The sub dose not at all I am sure of that that is why it has it's own amp with a low pass filter. If I were you I would just disconect the 3.5's those OZ's are going to sound way better without any rear fill. In my car I am not running any rear fill. THE SUB WILL NOT WORK HOW YOU ARE TRYING TO USE IT YOU NEED ANOTHER AMP. That amp is not made for a sub. Nor can the amp be setup to run that.
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06-26-2009, 12:41 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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I don't really understand. 2 of the 4 amp channels can be bridged resulting in 150 watts at 8 ohms - while keeping the fronts going at 75 watts a on 4 ohms. My JL 10w1v2 is an 8 ohm sub. How will that amp not work in that configuration?
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06-26-2009, 12:49 PM | #8 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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Your amp can not run in a 3 channel setup it is made ot either run at 4 channel or 2 channel. You will blow your amp if you try to run it like you are. Also all those ohms add up and you can not mix different ohm rating speakers into an amp unless it is setup with separate channels that support it. Also it is not a class D amp which means it was not meant or built for a sub.
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06-26-2009, 12:57 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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I believe the specified configuration is in the manual for the amp.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/13192.pdf If you follow that link and look at page 9/13 you can see the optimum configurations. In the 2nd section (stereo/bridged) you see: 1st Pair of Channels (Stereo): Stereo 4Ω: 75W x 2 (set to 17.3 V / ch.) 2nd Pair of Channels (Bridged)Bridged 8Ω: 150W x 1 (set to 34.6 V) |
06-26-2009, 01:00 PM | #10 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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Right that is 2 different configurations not the same thing installed at the same time. I am just telling you that if you do this you will blow up your amp. It was made for 1,2, or 4 speakers not 3. You need another amp. If you do not belive what I am telling you call up crutchfield and they will tel you the same thing.
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Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ Last edited by bigaudiofanat; 06-26-2009 at 01:08 PM. |
06-26-2009, 02:19 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Did some research. This setup diagram directly from JL audio shows the amp in a 3 channel configuration.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_4.pdf The only difference is that I'm powering my rear speakers from my head unit, not my fronts on the amp. Can anyone else confirm this setup will work? |
06-26-2009, 02:23 PM | #12 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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I have been talking to my guys for the past 20 minutes if you do do it the way you are wanting to with those in line resistors than your sub will only see around 80-100 watts anyway no were near enough to move it well. I did not know that you were putting resistors in before the crossovers. But you are still going to be hurting that amp because it is not a class D so it was not made for a sub. You would turn your low pass on for the sub and the components you would leave at full range. What those resistors do is make you final load come out to be 4 ohms so your still not going to see much power. My suggestion would be bridge the amp for the components no rear speakers and a second amp from kicker for your sub,
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06-26-2009, 03:01 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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I'm not planning on hooking up exactly like the diagram i posted (that was just to show it hooked up as 3 channel). My plan is similar, except no power from the amp powering the rear speakers (and no resistor).
I just got off the phone with JL tech support who confirmed the amp can run in a 3 channel mode with the front inputs powering the front component speakers and the rear powering 1 subwoofer. I don't think the tech support directly from JL will be wrong... |
06-26-2009, 03:05 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Without that the ohms rating will be thrown off and you will be with an unstable load on the amp. The resistors help eas up on the resistance and the load the amp sees.
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Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ Last edited by bigaudiofanat; 06-26-2009 at 03:15 PM. |
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