0 Guage power cable
 

Has anyone run 0 guage cables? I have some lying around and would like to use it, but thought I'd ask if there was an easy way to run it through the firewall without much modification. It seems hard to get a tool in there to open up a hole.

It will run just fine going through the rubber grommet located behind the battery. Just make sure to some kind of lube so the rubber does not catch the cable as your pulling it through.

That just sounds dirty big. :stirthepot:


:bowrofl:

Sweet! Thanks for the good news!

I used 0 gauge at one point, the most difficult part is getting it through the opening, once it's through it's just simply pulling it through.

The most effective method I found was taking a clothes hanger (metal) and taping it with strong tape through about 6" of the cable. Then pushing that through first, with gentle tugging and easing through the opening (sometimes a 2 person job) it will eventually go through, and then you just feed/pull the rest.

I know wait for the people that I have done installs for jump in. They will tell you all about the LUBE! :rofl2::stirthepot:

Have you heard anything about Zenclosures going out of business?

They don't seem to have much of a presence here anymore and people aren't getting PM's responded to... I had a question myself, but haven't seen anyone representing them around anywhere.

This better be false news...I was about to order a sub box. :ughdance:

It's not confirmed, it's just something to be weary of.

0 gauge is overkill IMO. If you already have it that's fine I guess but would not buy one in most installs. Trying to snake it is a pain no matter what. Try KY jelly :)

It all depends on what your running.

For 1200 watt amp, stable @1ohm

2x 10" subs, 600watt rms 2ohm dual coils...

I can't remember the different wiring methods to be able to tell you if it's series or parallel.

But Both Positive/Negative coil wired to positive/negative wires. Then to one +/- terminal. Make sense?


4 gauge is enough, or 0 needed?

I would say if your only running 1 amp stick with 4 gauge, if your going to be adding any kind of second amp down the road go with 0 gauge.

Just do it man, it's easier than it looks. I even snaked it without lube, because I don't like mixing rubbers with chemicals. You'll need lube because yours is fatter.

Ill be running two amps, easily making over 2000 watts combined. Yes, I already have the cable sitting around so I figure I'll use it. Hell, everything I'm using is overkill. Custom front stage components with a removable sealed 15 in hatch. Thanks for all comments.

I am running 0 in my car because I will be running 3 amps. :stirthepot::tup:

As a general rule, 4 Ga. is good for up to 100 amps (at 20' length)
anything above 100 amps, go to 2 Ga or 0 Ga.

You are correct that it depends on what he is running but I've competed in my younger days on a 4 gauge 3 amp 1200 system drawing 100 amps without any issues whatsoever. 4 gauge at 100 amps will be good up to 12 feet. In a Z, 4 gauge will be good for a 120 amp 1200-1400 watt set up. It is a small cabin with cables not running that far. In addition, all things being equal i.e. same h/u, speakers, amplification, RCA cabling, same length running power cables, etc. the human ear will not be able to distinguish any difference in SQ and SPL by using 0 vs 4 gauge cable. The current needed to drive these amps can easily be supplied by 4 gauge cabling in most cases especially in a Z. If you have room to put a system that draws major current in a small cabin like the z use 0 but if you have a modest 1200-1500 watt system in a small car use 4 g and spend the money on better h/u, amplification, sound processing or RCA's or speakers where it really counts.
If you already have the 0 g sitting around then use it by all means. Enjoy your music and protect your ears. I can say this with experience :)