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Alternate source for 12v power

so the blue and blue/white wires on the metra harness don't need to be connected to the head unit blue/white wire? Is the Blue/white wire on the head unit harness

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Old 05-10-2012, 10:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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so the blue and blue/white wires on the metra harness don't need to be connected to the head unit blue/white wire? Is the Blue/white wire on the head unit harness only to be hooked up to a REM amp wire?

If so, I will just use that, and worry about the powered woofer when I get it.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vermithrax View Post
so the blue and blue/white wires on the metra harness don't need to be connected to the head unit blue/white wire? Is the Blue/white wire on the head unit harness only to be hooked up to a REM amp wire?

If so, I will just use that, and worry about the powered woofer when I get it.
The blue wire on the metra as I said, only needs to be used if you have a factory amp "you do not" so yo can omit that wire and use the blue/white wire for your amp.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Figured this would be a good thread to run off of. Basically same question " I am looking for an alternate source for 12v power".

I am looking for a solid 12v constant to tap my CarPC into. I was going to run off my Pioneer HU existing 12v constant and switched, but think that I would be maxing out that line and may not be smart. I want a clean 12V constant source without having to tap right from battery.

Off hand, is the cigarette lighter a 12v constant source? Also, for the 12v switched, would it be okay to run off of the HU or would there be a better source for both?
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tibal View Post
Figured this would be a good thread to run off of. Basically same question " I am looking for an alternate source for 12v power".

I am looking for a solid 12v constant to tap my CarPC into. I was going to run off my Pioneer HU existing 12v constant and switched, but think that I would be maxing out that line and may not be smart. I want a clean 12V constant source without having to tap right from battery.

Off hand, is the cigarette lighter a 12v constant source? Also, for the 12v switched, would it be okay to run off of the HU or would there be a better source for both?
The 12 volt power plug is one option. However if you need a clean and strong power source fuse and run a 14 gauge wire from your battery, and if you need a switched source setup a basic relay and a fused line from your battery.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:28 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The 12 volt power plug is one option. However if you need a clean and strong power source fuse and run a 14 gauge wire from your battery, and if you need a switched source setup a basic relay and a fused line from your battery.
Hmm sounds like that may be the best option then. (running from the battery. I will have to look into options for that.

For the constant 12v w/ 14ga wire from battery- 10A inline fuse sufficient?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tent=CT2032234
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:44 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tibal View Post
Hmm sounds like that may be the best option then. (running from the battery. I will have to look into options for that.

For the constant 12v w/ 14ga wire from battery- 10A inline fuse sufficient?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tent=CT2032234
Match your fuse to what your device needs.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:33 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
Match your fuse to what your device needs.
Oh gosh now were getting beyond my auto electronic knowledge. Looking into it I think a 20amp inline fuse close to the battery may be sufficient.

My device is a CarPC running a Mini-Box M2 ATX 160w power Supply

Smart Car PC Power Supply
- 160 watts output
- Ideal car Power supply for operating Core 2 duo, Celeron, AMD systems
- ATX, 6-24V wide input range
- Intelligent shutdown controller
- ON/OFF motherboard control
- Survives vehicle engine cranks
- Battery deep discharge prevention
- High efficiency, 160 watts output
- "Anti-Thump" Amplifier remote control - 15A automotive fuse (mini-blade)
- VIA, P4 and AMD CPU support
- manufactured by mini-box.com
- ROHS compliant version

So in retrospect, I will be running 2 power wires, from the battery, one for constant and one for switched. On the switched I will use a relay.
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Last edited by tibal; 09-19-2012 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tibal View Post
Oh gosh now were getting beyond my auto electronic knowledge. Looking into it I think a 20amp inline fuse close to the battery may be sufficient.

My device is a CarPC running a Mini-Box M2 ATX 160w power Supply

Smart Car PC Power Supply
- 160 watts output
- Ideal car Power supply for operating Core 2 duo, Celeron, AMD systems
- ATX, 6-24V wide input range
- Intelligent shutdown controller
- ON/OFF motherboard control
- Survives vehicle engine cranks
- Battery deep discharge prevention
- High efficiency, 160 watts output
- "Anti-Thump" Amplifier remote control - 15A automotive fuse (mini-blade)
- VIA, P4 and AMD CPU support
- manufactured by mini-box.com
- ROHS compliant version

So in retrospect, I will be running 2 power wires, from the battery, one for constant and one for switched. On the switched I will use a relay.
Match the fuse rating on your power supply.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
Match the fuse rating on your power supply.
Yessir,

Going to pick up an inline 15amp fuse today and some 10-14 ga wire. Hopefully get this puppy wired in tonight and will document how it goes in a new thread. Thanks Big per usual.
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