"Dash" smartphone double DIN unit (kickstarter)

Vaughanabe13 · 01-30-2012, 04:57 PM

This looks really cool. I'm not sure if it would work with the Bose system though. Or even stock for that matter.

Dash - The Smart phone Car Stereo by Paul Lizer — Kickstarter

It says "Dash has 4 x 50w to power your speakers but also has 2 preamps running at 2V a front and rear/sub."

It doesn't specify anything else as far as connections and the amplification stage. Would we be able to make this work in our Z's? For the Bose system it seems like 2V would be really weak/low volume based on what I have read. That's of course with the bose speakers.

I won't be ordering one for the first run because I don't have an iPhone but this looks awesome when they get around to making new faceplates.

kenchan · 01-30-2012, 05:01 PM

can't you get a speaker level to line-level converter? that would be a lot cheaper and probably more reliable.

bigaudiofanat · 01-30-2012, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughanabe13

This looks really cool. I'm not sure if it would work with the Bose system though. Or even stock for that matter.

Dash - The Smart phone Car Stereo by Paul Lizer — Kickstarter

It says "Dash has 4 x 50w to power your speakers but also has 2 preamps running at 2V a front and rear/sub."

It doesn't specify anything else as far as connections and the amplification stage. Would we be able to make this work in our Z's? For the Bose system it seems like 2V would be really weak/low volume based on what I have read. That's of course with the bose speakers.

I won't be ordering one for the first run because I don't have an iPhone but this looks awesome when they get around to making new faceplates.

Two things, for the bose system to run properly the hew head unit must have at least a 4 volt pre out.

50 X 4 on the front is MAX wattage, normally the RMS is around 15-22 watts a channel in which is what all head units run at. Always look at the RMS rather than the "MAX"

Vaughanabe13 · 01-31-2012, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Two things, for the bose system to run properly the hew head unit must have at least a 4 volt pre out.

50 X 4 on the front is MAX wattage, normally the RMS is around 15-22 watts a channel in which is what all head units run at. Always look at the RMS rather than the "MAX"

I know that, I just have no clue what kind of power would be necessary for the Z without swapping speakers/rewiring. I want to do as little work on the Z as possible.

bigaudiofanat · 01-31-2012, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughanabe13

I know that, I just have no clue what kind of power would be necessary for the Z without swapping speakers/rewiring. I want to do as little work on the Z as possible.

If you have base speakers you can run them off any new head unit, if you have the bose system you can not run the bose speakers off a new head unit, you would have to run it through the bose amp.

01-30-2012, 04:57 PM	#1 (permalink)
Vaughanabe13 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Iowa Posts: 387 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 14	"Dash" smartphone double DIN unit (kickstarter) This looks really cool. I'm not sure if it would work with the Bose system though. Or even stock for that matter. Dash - The Smart phone Car Stereo by Paul Lizer — Kickstarter It says "Dash has 4 x 50w to power your speakers but also has 2 preamps running at 2V a front and rear/sub." It doesn't specify anything else as far as connections and the amplification stage. Would we be able to make this work in our Z's? For the Bose system it seems like 2V would be really weak/low volume based on what I have read. That's of course with the bose speakers. I won't be ordering one for the first run because I don't have an iPhone but this looks awesome when they get around to making new faceplates. __________________ 2009 Nissan 370Z Touring, w/sport, 6MT, chicane yellow/black.

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01-30-2012, 05:01 PM	#2 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	can't you get a speaker level to line-level converter? that would be a lot cheaper and probably more reliable.