What to know about Bose

DEpointfive0 · 06-07-2013, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Not really, if you install any new speaker you will want/need to install an external amp and a LOC to A) give you a clean un altered signal. B) Be compatible. There are some installers out there that argue you can, however it will not sound good and give you the volume your after in my experience.

I know this is a terrible answer... But at THIS moment, I'm not too interested in doing a full install, and I'd assume that changing at least the speakers is better than nothing(?)
That being said, I know that all the Bose systems have weird Ohms, but is there a speaker out there that will work without any major modification?

phantom370z · 12-29-2013, 09:10 AM

So for just swapping out the factory head unit on my 14' Nismo w/ Bose(non nav) does all of this look right:

antenna adapter: Metra 40-NI12

harness: Metra 70-7553

Steering wheel controls: Axxess ASWC-1

Dash kit: 99-7607B

bigaudiofanat · 12-29-2013, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom370z

So for just swapping out the factory head unit on my 14' Nismo w/ Bose(non nav) does all of this look right:

antenna adapter: Metra 40-NI12

harness: Metra 70-7553

Steering wheel controls: Axxess ASWC-1

Dash kit: 99-7607B

That looks correct.

phantom370z · 12-29-2013, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

That looks correct.

thanks for taking a look

fitxpert · 01-04-2014, 12:26 PM

Hi all,
I've done some scouring and have been unable to come up with a thread that addresses my issue.

I just installed a new HU (Parrot Asteroid Smart), got pretty much everything working, except - I noticed the sub isn't doing its thing, and I can't even control it. The PAS has 6 pre-outs, and of course, the RCAs from the metra harness only go to Front L/R and Rear L/R. Has anyone found a work around for this to get it working? I saw some posts on LOCs, but those were for use when keeping the Bose HU.

Please drop some knowledge!

Also, big props to Z34_Nismo for helping out with getting the Unika working! All of you guys are awesome. I love this forum.

SuperDave · 01-12-2014, 09:36 PM

So I successfully installed new components in my bose system without needing to buy 3/4 of the stuff mentioned in this thread or run new speaker wire. I want to upgrade my stereo, but can't afford to "do it all at once". So I've done the speakers for now. Next will be a head unit. But over the next few days I'll write up the DIY for upgrading the component speakers in the bose system without having to buy a lot of other stuff or run new speaker wire.

bigaudiofanat · 01-12-2014, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave

So I successfully installed new components in my bose system without needing to buy 3/4 of the stuff mentioned in this thread or run new speaker wire. I want to upgrade my stereo, but can't afford to "do it all at once". So I've done the speakers for now. Next will be a head unit. But over the next few days I'll write up the DIY for upgrading the component speakers in the bose system without having to buy a lot of other stuff or run new speaker wire.

You can run speakers with the bose amp however it is going to cause it to fail overtime as the ohms load is different. It is like saying I ran 4 ohm speakers off a HT receiver that is only made to go to 8 ohms. It will run them but it will not do it efficiently and cause a lot more heat. You should run new speaker wire as well to bypass the factory crossovers. Just a little info

Fountainhead · 01-13-2014, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

You can run speakers with the bose amp however it is going to cause it to fail overtime as the ohms load is different. It is like saying I ran 4 ohm speakers off a HT receiver that is only made to go to 8 ohms. It will run them but it will not do it efficiently and cause a lot more heat. You should run new speaker wire as well to bypass the factory crossovers. Just a little info

OK,
Bose spkrs are typically very low ohmage to maximize the power from the 12V rail. If you connect higher ohmage speakers then the available voltage is divided across a higher impedance/resistance, causing less power to be available from the amplifier. P = V2/R, so if the voltage stays the same (relatively speaking) then a larger value for R produces a lower power number. All modern car amps have switch mode supplies that take the 12-14V and produce for instance, two rails, say +42 and -42, this allows the amplifier to produce higher power using just 12-14 Volts DC input.
Bose typically doesn't do this, they use say .45 ohm speakers with 12-14V and since P = V2/R then since the Bose amp is swinging between 12-6 and 6 to 0, (center line is ~6V) then you get approx. 6V x 6V / .45 for a theoretical 80 watts, but I'm not sure what the Bose drivers in the car actually measure, BAF I'm sure knows the Bose driver rated impedance...

PS: Without going into crossover design, running any impedance other than what xover is designed for ruins the intended frequency content of the original xover to the new driver, moving it waaaay up or waaaay down, either way sounding bad. ( to some people, not to others, YMMV).

Running higher impedance speakers (bigger R number) only lessens the power output, running speakers with lower rated impedance can cause the R number to get too low and cause the power to exceed the heatsink capability of the amplifier, causing repeated thermal events and eventually damaging the amplifier.

The end goal is to select speakers that match the ideal load for the amplifier, that produce the desired frequency response, and hopefully you've selected speakers with high efficiency, i.e., if you have speakers that are 90 dB efficiency, then if you substitute 93 dB speakers, it's like getting twice the sound pressure level with the same speaker.
Also, if you have one 90 dB efficiency speaker and add another 90 dB speaker, then your SPL level will increase 3 dB.

I know this is like that person who you ask what time it is, and he tells you how a clock works! I just like folks to know how stuff actually works so they can separate fact from fiction.

bigaudiofanat · 01-13-2014, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fountainhead

OK,
Bose spkrs are typically very low ohmage to maximize the power from the 12V rail. If you connect higher ohmage speakers then the available voltage is divided across a higher impedance/resistance, causing less power to be available from the amplifier. P = V2/R, so if the voltage stays the same (relatively speaking) then the R produces a lower power number.
Running higher impedance speakers only lessens the power output, running speakers with lower rated impedance can cause the R number to get too low and cause the power to exceed the heatsink capability of the amplifier, causing repeated thermal events and eventually damaging the amplifier.

The end goal is to select speakers that match the ideal load for the amplifier, that produce the desired frequency response, and hopefully you've selected speakers with high efficiency, i.e., if you have speakers that are 90 dB efficiency, then if you substitute 93 dB speakers, it's like getting twice the sound pressure level with the same speaker.
Also, if you have one 90 dB efficiency speaker and add another 90 dB speaker, then your SPL level will increase 3 dB.

I get what your sying but not all their speakers are lower ohms I know the standard is 2 ohms for them but I have seen them range from 10-2 and to take the risk of running aftermarket speakers on their amp is not something I would even do for any of my customers and I do not recommend people do it either. Not to mention your not getting anywhere near the quality of sound they are capable of with the bose omitting frequencies

SuperDave · 01-14-2014, 01:20 AM

I didn't use the bose amp. And you dont need to "run new wires to avoid the bose crossovers" because the crossovers are built into the bose amp. The bose amp has front and rear left and right input, power ground and remote, and front and rear left and right and tweeter outputs... just clip and snip. Give me a few days to get the diy together.

Was just trying to say, you dont need to buy LOCs and run new wiring just to upgrade the components. I simply found all the oem wiring and utilized it.

Sent from my Samsung Note 10.1 using Tapatalk

Cbtech · 01-14-2014, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave

I didn't use the bose amp. And you dont need to "run new wires to avoid the bose crossovers" because the crossovers are built into the bose amp. The bose amp has front and rear left and right input, power ground and remote, and front and rear left and right and tweeter outputs... just clip and snip. Give me a few days to get the diy together.

Was just trying to say, you dont need to buy LOCs and run new wiring just to upgrade the components. I simply found all the oem wiring and utilized it.

Sent from my Samsung Note 10.1 using Tapatalk

Yessir...all 12 hours of it was done at my house. was a great upgrade to the factory system and no need to lose all your steering wheel controls. it is quite impressive

bigaudiofanat · 01-14-2014, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave

I didn't use the bose amp. And you dont need to "run new wires to avoid the bose crossovers" because the crossovers are built into the bose amp. The bose amp has front and rear left and right input, power ground and remote, and front and rear left and right and tweeter outputs... just clip and snip. Give me a few days to get the diy together.

Was just trying to say, you dont need to buy LOCs and run new wiring just to upgrade the components. I simply found all the oem wiring and utilized it.

Sent from my Samsung Note 10.1 using Tapatalk

Different kind of build in crossover inside the bose amp bud. Read my original post about it.

As I stated earlier you can do it but I highly recommend not to and would not for any of my customers simply because your not getting the best quality out of your new speakers.

SuperDave · 01-14-2014, 12:18 PM

You're right, there are other crossovers on the oem wiring somewhere and therefore you have to run all new wires to everything, and purchase LOC's. I'll skip writing up the DIY because you have covered everything there is to know about wires and informed everyone already. Oh, and my new components don't sound amazing either.

Just wanted to share my experience for some DIY'ers out there. I'll stay away from the audio threads for now on, you seem to have it covered.

zakimak · 01-14-2014, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave

You're right, there are other crossovers on the oem wiring somewhere and therefore you have to run all new wires to everything, and purchase LOC's. I'll skip writing up the DIY because you have covered everything there is to know about wires and informed everyone already. Oh, and my new components don't sound amazing either.

Just wanted to share my experience for some DIY'ers out there. I'll stay away from the audio threads for now on, you seem to have it covered.

I sense sarcasm..

bigaudiofanat · 01-14-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zakimak

I sense sarcasm..

As do i

Just a few random threads saying the same thing. I guess none of us know what we are talking about.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rs-on-bose-amp

http://g35driver.com/forums/audio-vi...-speakers.html

12-29-2013, 09:10 AM	#62 (permalink)
phantom370z Track Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: South Carolina Posts: 865 Drives: 14 Nismo 370Z PW Rep Power: 13	So for just swapping out the factory head unit on my 14' Nismo w/ Bose(non nav) does all of this look right: antenna adapter: Metra 40-NI12 harness: Metra 70-7553 Steering wheel controls: Axxess ASWC-1 Dash kit: 99-7607B __________________ 14' Pearl White Nismo 370z - SOLD

01-04-2014, 12:26 PM	#65 (permalink)
fitxpert Base Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Tempe, AZ Posts: 34 Drives: 09 370Z White MT TRG Rep Power: 12	Aftermarket HU + Bose Subwoofer Hi all, I've done some scouring and have been unable to come up with a thread that addresses my issue. I just installed a new HU (Parrot Asteroid Smart), got pretty much everything working, except - I noticed the sub isn't doing its thing, and I can't even control it. The PAS has 6 pre-outs, and of course, the RCAs from the metra harness only go to Front L/R and Rear L/R. Has anyone found a work around for this to get it working? I saw some posts on LOCs, but those were for use when keeping the Bose HU. Please drop some knowledge! Also, big props to Z34_Nismo for helping out with getting the Unika working! All of you guys are awesome. I love this forum.

01-12-2014, 09:36 PM	#66 (permalink)
SuperDave Track Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Manteca, Nor-Cal Posts: 691 Drives: My Z Daily Rep Power: 13	So I successfully installed new components in my bose system without needing to buy 3/4 of the stuff mentioned in this thread or run new speaker wire. I want to upgrade my stereo, but can't afford to "do it all at once". So I've done the speakers for now. Next will be a head unit. But over the next few days I'll write up the DIY for upgrading the component speakers in the bose system without having to buy a lot of other stuff or run new speaker wire. Cbtech and Smashley like this. __________________ R2 ZEE 2 Build Journal Upgrade your speakers from BOSE without new wiring, LOC's, or a new head unit.

01-14-2014, 01:20 AM	#70 (permalink)
SuperDave Track Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Manteca, Nor-Cal Posts: 691 Drives: My Z Daily Rep Power: 13	I didn't use the bose amp. And you dont need to "run new wires to avoid the bose crossovers" because the crossovers are built into the bose amp. The bose amp has front and rear left and right input, power ground and remote, and front and rear left and right and tweeter outputs... just clip and snip. Give me a few days to get the diy together. Was just trying to say, you dont need to buy LOCs and run new wiring just to upgrade the components. I simply found all the oem wiring and utilized it. Sent from my Samsung Note 10.1 using Tapatalk __________________ R2 ZEE 2 Build Journal Upgrade your speakers from BOSE without new wiring, LOC's, or a new head unit. Last edited by SuperDave; 01-14-2014 at 01:24 AM.

01-14-2014, 12:18 PM	#73 (permalink)
SuperDave Track Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Manteca, Nor-Cal Posts: 691 Drives: My Z Daily Rep Power: 13	You're right, there are other crossovers on the oem wiring somewhere and therefore you have to run all new wires to everything, and purchase LOC's. I'll skip writing up the DIY because you have covered everything there is to know about wires and informed everyone already. Oh, and my new components don't sound amazing either. Just wanted to share my experience for some DIY'ers out there. I'll stay away from the audio threads for now on, you seem to have it covered. chubbs likes this. __________________ R2 ZEE 2 Build Journal Upgrade your speakers from BOSE without new wiring, LOC's, or a new head unit.

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