What to know about Bose

irondoc

As with most of you I found the Bose intolerable.
I don't have the time e or desire to do the work. Myself so I went to California Custom Sounds in Dayton, OH. . I left the factory nav and head unit in place. Everything else was stripped out. I wanted my spare tire so we used a Cerwin Vega shallow mount sub, created a fiberglass enclosure and a new rear deck that raises the platform of the trunk by 1.5". That is enough space to allow the sub to be a flush install. Also made enough room to put the main amp, sub amp and eq in the rear deck and completely concealed. Components include
Audio control LC8i
Linear power LP 2250
Blues Audio 6.5
RF punch P300
Cerwin Vega Stealth 12

Everything works as new, no hassles, looks like nothing happened except a discrete sub in the middle of the deck.
I expect I will replace the head unit down the road, but for now I am very pleased.
I will post pics in a bit

pfdaxe

A few weeks ago I installed a 10" JL sub with Fosgate mono amp and Audiocontrol LC2i LOC and used the Bose amp sub output wires...

Now...I'm installing a set of Polk Audio 6.5 componants and Fosgate 2ch. amp up front. Does anyone know where to tap (which wires) to connect a seperate LOC for front componant speakers since the front outputs from the Bose amp have seperate tweeter outputs??

Can I just connect the door speaker and tweeter outputs from the output of the Bose amp together and connect to LOC or will this cause issues? Or, is there a way to connect to wires before the Bose amp?

I'm sure someone has done this before. Eric at Audiocontrol was thinking I will need a second LOC for the fronts instead of using the one I already have for the sub.

Assistance greatly appreciated
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bigaudiofanat

No that will not work.

You need a LOC with the capability of summing your high and low signal wires into a full low output for your new amp. Audio Control makes a few good ones.
IMO if you grab the low level input to the bose amp and run it to the LOC that will give you the ability to run your sub amp and your new speaker amp.

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pfdaxe

Thanks. I was kind of thinking that since the input side of the Bose amp has front & rear speaker inputs and the output side has the front & rear speakers plus the tweets and sub. This tells me that crossovers are in the Bose amp. I was hoping I wouldn't have to purchase another LOC so if I connect the front L & R inputs from the Bose amp to the LOC like stated, I should be good. I forgot the LC2i doesn't sum.
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pfdaxe

Update to my system:

This weekend I finally added a second amp and front component speakers.

This is what I have for my complete system:

Front Speakers:

Polk Audio DXi6500 6 1/2" Components (crossovers in front kick panels)
Base Speaker Brackets from Nissan Dealer (no need for spacers)
Custom Fabricated Tweeter Mounts (made from corregated material removed from trunk area)
Replaced OEM wires with 12 Gauge wire

Front Speakers Amp:

Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-2 (2ch. amp)
Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge Amp Kit
Rockford Fosgate 1 in/2 out Distribution Block

Rear/Sub:

JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Sub Woofer
Wicked CAS Corner Box
Rockford Fosgate R500-1D (Mono-Amp) with remote Bass-Boast control
Rockford Fosgate 4 Gauge Amp Kit

Line Output Converter:

Audiocontrol LC7i

This LOC worked PERFECT and I highly recommend it. I used the AV section of the FSM to determine the front speaker and tweeter output/signal wires from the Bose amp and cut them and then soldered/heat shrunk the connections. I connected the front speaker signal wires to the L & R main inputs on the LOC and the tweeter signal wires to the 2nd channel L & R input on the LOC. It has a "sum" jumper inside that sums the 2 seperate signals to the main output. The sub signal wires then go to channel 3 input and have a seperate output. It also has a ground isolation inside and I don't have ANY engine noise what so ever. I have yet to find the time to tune the system, but I'm very please with this set-up so far.


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