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Wiring is going to be very easy for you. 1. Take all speakers out. 2. Cut OEM connection plug (make sure to leave enough wire on the plug in case
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#1 (permalink) |
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Wiring is going to be very easy for you. 1. Take all speakers out. 2. Cut OEM connection plug (make sure to leave enough wire on the plug in case you ever need to re-connect) 3. Put connectors on individual wires 4. Hook up new speakers and install with plate (if needed) and screws that come with the speakers.
Speakers are pretty easy too. OEM H/U is a 4ohm set up. Make sure to find 4ohm speakers. Side note - you will probably be under powering the speakers if they are say over 30w RMS. Could lead to damage if you are trying to pound your sytem. Anyone else got anything they want to add? |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Wow! Thanks, Rreign! So, that's now my problem.... Finding a speaker that fits perfectly. I'm really good with mechanical stuff, but all of my Nissan/Infiniti products had the Bose. I've not had a chance to play with this kind of stuff. I get afraid of mounting the speakers as well. What about brackets and stuff? What speakers will fit? Anyone? Is this going to be a complete pain? Thanks for the wiring tips. That scares me too. I just don't want to drill. I just want to wire them in, hook them up, and go. Oh, of course I want a much better sound. I don't need super-bumping bass, just something that sounds better. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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OH, what do we do about the speakers on the dash? Those tweeters? What size and power? They seem awfully large up there. What Ohm? |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Also I would suggest doing an aftermarket H/U just for better control of your system and some additional wattage but you would be fine with the stock. Ok, for the "Tweets" in the dash, I quote them because they aren't really tweets so much as just 2.5" components. It would be really hard to find a manufacturer that would carry 2.5"s. Like I said, I suggest getting a component set-up with the 6.5"s and tweets. Like the ones I posted. They should come with brackets to mount the tweets. Also you shouldn't have any problem with the mounting depth of any of those 6.5"s that I showed you, or any others for that matter. The stock mounting holes have plenty of clearance and are plenty deep enough. Don't worry too much about the wattage but more about the impedence. Like I said, make sure they are 4ohm or A. They will be too much for the stock system. B. You won't be able to turn them up without distorting them at a very low volume level. Finally, C. You run a risk of actually damaging the speakers due to thewattage and impedence conflict you will have. Oh plus you may actually damage the stock system itself because of the same conflict. That's as simple as I can put it for someone that doesn't know all that much about systems. |
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Okay, this is what I just bought, and get on Thursday....
Focal Access 165CA1 6.5" Focal Access 165CA1 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com Polk db1001 1" tweeter. Polk db1001 1" dome tweeters at Crutchfield.com He recommended this Polk because it's not in your face, but still is nice and clean. He described it as "not making you tired and hurtning your ears." I am really hoping this works. Crutchfield said they didn't have a bracket for 2.5" to 1". He recommened, like you said Rreign, of making my own out of some metal. We'll see. Do these speakers come with some wire to connect to or do I have to go and buy some? Rreign, I'm still totally scared because I have a feeling I'm going to have to go to the hardware store about ten times for this project. Any more tips? Anything I should be picking up before delivery? Oh, I'm sure it's on here, but any tips for taking off the door panels? I saw that I need something that's not harsh for taking off the tweeter covers. I really hope this works. Thanks for all of your help though! Maybe I'll take some pics during the process. Man, I've never done anything like this before. I usually let other people make the mistakes first. Then I move in. Not this time! |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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