I didn't read any of the above info but I have info relevant to your topic. I have the base audio system and I hate the speakers. I replaced the door speakers with Infinity Kappa 62.9i (6.5" round) and it sounds much better. I will replace the stereo with a Kenwood DNX7140 pretty soon but I wanted to go ahead with the speakers. The Infinity speakers have a lot of highs which I like and the bass is not bad. I personally have no need for a top-of-the-line audio system but the Kappa speakers are a definite improvement and they fit fine. They work with the factory stereo, they have a built in crossover and they will work with the DNX7140 when I get it. I paid ~ $70 for the speakers and it was well worth it.

Robert

Read through the post since I am considering upgrading my audio components in my base model as well. rreign, I gave you +rep for your willingness to offer up help (not just help, but the offer to be online ready to answer any questions and walk him thorugh it was definitely above and beyond) to someone requesting, that's what this forum is all about. :tup:

Weatherman, if you are mechanically inclined, doing speaker installs shouldn't be too hard for you. It just got in your head, which happens, but once you crack everything open it gets pretty easy from there. If you haven't had someone else do it yet, I'm with rreign, get the right speakers shipped to you and attempt it yourself, you just might surprise yourself and will have more pride in the outcome than you would with a professional doing it.

Hi Robert,
I've been considering doing the Infiniti Kappas in my own base model 370z followed a little later with the same Kenwood deck. I'd prefer not installing any other amplification so I think the increased power provided by the DNX7140 might drive the 2 ohm Kappas enough to fill the tiny cockpit. I appreciate hearing from you that the Kappas were a significant improvement in sound over the factory speakers and that they fit easily. Have you heard any warnings about the 2 ohm speakers damaging the amp in the new head unit you'll be installing? A sales kid at a local chain audio store was saying to stear clear of the Kappas for this reason. I am thinking that actually the Kappa's lower impedence will provide more sound volume with the rather low powered amp of the head unit. Any other thoughts or experience is appreciated. It's great when you are doing exactly the same thing someone else has already done (or is doing). Are you also not planning on installing a sub? I don't listen to rap or hip-hop. I'm a classic rock guy; Led Zep, Badlands, Whitesnake, etc.

I'm not a car stereo person so I'm not sure if there will be a problem with a new head unit but I'm not going to worry about it. If the base stereo has no problem I can't see where a $1000 stereo will have a problem. I have had the speakers in for a few weeks now and it didn't REALLY sit down to listen to them until Tuesday night. At lower volumes they sound better than factory no question but it is a medium improvement. They sound GREAT when you turn the volume up though. All of the sounds are very clear and smooth and it is just an enjoyable experience. With the nice door speakers I see no need or improvement from rear speakers or even a sub. The car interior is so small that the door speakers fill the volume of the car to a nice level. Personal taste is that the music is for me and the other occupant to hear not the surrounding neighborhood.

Be very weary of using crossed impedence speakers/HU. You can run into some issues with using a 4ohm deck and 2ohm speakers. If it was the other way around, you'd be ok. I'd stear clear of doing this if you can. You could do some serious damage to the H/U if you're not careful.

Kind of jumping in this late, sorry if I touch upon already asked questions.

Concerning the base Z, is the conclusion that the door speakers are fine and the thing to replace are the rear speakers? And if those are replaced, would you need an additional amp, or is factory sufficient?

well the base z doesn't even have rear speakers. it has 6.5"s up front and some 2.5" tweets in the dash. so the real question for you would be can you put rear speakers in the z and the answer is yes. anything you want really, I suggest a new headunit and amp to power everything.

Heres what I did. depending on what your looking for this should be good enough.
http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/5...-saturday.html

Wow, I actually thought there were rear speakers. Oversight on my part.
I do like your setup tommy.

So, maybe replacing the door speakers (they're 6.5" I believe?) with 6.5" alpine type-S speakers 240w, and 1" alpine tweets? I want to keep the stock dash to keep the stock look going, so I was thinking a 500w alpine amp.

Tell me what you guys think.

Thanks for the props. Speakers are a choice that can only be made by you, as far as the amp is concerned, I think its way to much power. 80watts x 2 is more than enough.

Well, I was thinking of getting the 500w so it can cover if I decide to get a sub later.

But, if I get a 200w (up to 4 channel I think) would be enough to power the two 240w speakers and maybe a small 10" sub later on?

Also, aftermarket 6.5" speakers should fit right in, in place of the door speakers right?

I bought some Pioneer Premier component speakers that came with 6 3/4inch 2 way and 1 1/8inch tweeter (we made them fit). We used the brackets of the stock speakers by cutting out the old ones. The crossovers are mounted under the dash. The sound is very good up until the volume level of around 28 when the tweeters start popping. At first we thought the tweeters were blown but we hooked them up to a 200w system and they sounded fine. I am guessing that the impediance mismatch you guys talked about is the cause. The speakers are rated at 4ohms but I guess the head unit is 8 or more?

Anyways I am waiting for the debut of the new Pioneer head units that will be announced this weekend. Hopefully the new ones boot up quickly. The navigation and back up camera will be very nice as the huge blind spot is still scary when backing up.

I personally don't like to hook up components and subs on the same amp. Typically amateur installers are going to underpower the sub and over power the components or cross impedences. I would suggest a smaller more equal (in wattage) 4 channel amp for components and just run a seperate mono amp when you decide to get a sub. Doing this allows you way more control over your system and it tends to offer a lot better sound quality!

Thanks for the info. I'll probably take your advice and go for a smaller amp for just the components.