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-   -   To those with Polk DB6501 Component Speakers... (http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/42288-those-polk-db6501-component-speakers.html)

bebenegro 09-07-2011 08:32 AM

To those with Polk DB6501 Component Speakers...
 
Hey.

I recently ordered the Polk DB6501 Component Speakers for my base 370z... I watched the videos for the install process, however, I have a question, as I wont be installing the speakers with an amp (at least not for the immediate future). Ill be using the stock radio for a couple of months, so, my main question is:

Could any of you with similar setups post pics of were you placed the crossovers? Also... I imagine that when installing, I would have to tape off the ends of the original tweeter cables, and use as mains into the crossovers the original door speaker inputs?

Thanks in advance, all.

Manuel

bigaudiofanat 09-07-2011 08:46 AM

The db's are made to be ran off a head unit, if you are going to run them off an amp than I recommend going the the higher up models.

When installing I usually place them in the kick panels behind the wires. I run all new wires to the speakers and tweeters and usually run the wires to the new wiring harness of the head unit. However sense you are not doing a new head unit yet you will have to find the output wires of the head unit and splice into them to power the new crossover. Or you can wait to get a new head unit and amp and do it all at once. Because you will have to re run the location of the wires from behind the head unit to the new amp in the future.

bebenegro 09-07-2011 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat (Post 1301269)
However sense you are not doing a new head unit yet you will have to find the output wires of the head unit and splice into them to power the new crossover.

Exactly... So, in this case - How would I find the output wire of the main unit? Meaning... Right now, I would assume the headunit either has 4 speaker outputs and powers both woofers and tweeters independently, or, it was 2 outputs that then split at somepoint towards the woofers and the tweeters... What would the case be here?

Will everything work If I use the OEM door speaker wires to power the crossover? Or do I need to look further up the wires to be able to run everything?

kenchan 09-07-2011 09:51 AM

i would pull out the HU and find the 2 main speaker wires for L and R, cut the wire at the harness and solder on a longer cord going to the xover input (place in kick panels as big mentioned above).

from there tweeter output goes up to your new tw's in the dash and woofer output will go through the door gromet into your door speaker. it's a time consuming process unless you're a pro like big. not difficult to do.

tjlazer 09-07-2011 10:50 AM

Do yourself a favor and just get a new HU while you are doing this. I am looking at the Clarion CX501 as it's cheap and looks a lot like the OE unit! But has all the bells and whistles we did not get like bluetooth and mp3.

kenchan 09-07-2011 11:23 AM

^^ agreed.

bebenegro 09-23-2011 04:40 PM

Ok. I got a new head unit (Pioneer 4300DVD). Thats already installed. Now, onto the speakers installation...

For some reason, no installer in my area has experience installing component systems in 370Zs, so, Im either stuck doing this myself, or actually helping out the guy who installed the head unit for me (installation was free with the purchase, just in case youre wondering why I didnt do it).

Now, Ive already watched the installation videos dozens of times, but remember, those are made for an installation were the wires are run from an amp to the speakers (amp -> crossover -> Speakers)... What are my choices then if Im running everything off from the head unit?

Im currently thinking (while mostly using stock wires for everything: Ill upgrade when I do the amp): using the wires in the door panel speaker to feed the crossover (considering that the crossover would be in the kickpanel, Id have another set of wires going the opposite route, but through the same way). Getting through the tweeters would be easy... But... What must be done to be able to route the wires from the kickpanels to the door?

bebenegro 09-23-2011 05:08 PM

I think my main concern is I cant seem to find the molex connector on the inside of the car after I remove the kick panel... Anyone have any pics of the location? This is driving me insane...

cptspeed 09-23-2011 05:41 PM

I thought the one side of the molex was in the door jamb. This is where you will find the release. I believe.

bebenegro 09-23-2011 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptspeed (Post 1327340)
I thought the one side of the molex was in the door jamb. This is where you will find the release. I believe.

Yeah, thats the outside one... But what about the one inside, above the kickpanel? Cant seem to find it.

cptspeed 09-23-2011 06:08 PM

Once you disconnect the lock on the molex, push the side going into the car inwards you will see it then

bigaudiofanat 09-23-2011 06:08 PM

The connector is two pieces, the first is the pressure lever that you pull down and pull out in between the door and the body of the car. The second look at the other part of the harness between the door and the car frame and push up on the bottom of that piece of the harness. This will free it and allow you to push it into an area where you can pull it down and cut the plastic spacing out and run your wire.

Before cutting
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/IMG_0460.jpg

After cutting
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/IMG_0462.jpg


The lever part
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/IMG_0461.jpg

bebenegro 09-23-2011 07:48 PM

Those pictures are a big help man, thanks. So what would you do in terms of setting everything up? Is the approach I mentioned above reasonable? That being:

1. Place / set the crossover in the kick panel.
2. Take out door panel, remove stock speaker, splice cable - extend cable as needed.
3. Pray to god I can get the molex adapters off - open space for cable.
4. If I do, route source cable from the door to the crossover, and route the door speaker cable from the crossover to the door speaker.
5. Tweeter should be easy enough (I hope) once the crossover is in place and with the appropiate source.

Sounds good?

cptspeed 09-23-2011 09:42 PM

The hardest part for me was fishing the speaker wire through the rubber gasket that protects the all the wires for the windows and locks etc. The rest was cake. I don't think you can unlatch the molex with the door all the way open either.

bigaudiofanat 09-25-2011 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bebenegro (Post 1327427)
Those pictures are a big help man, thanks. So what would you do in terms of setting everything up? Is the approach I mentioned above reasonable? That being:

1. Place / set the crossover in the kick panel.
2. Take out door panel, remove stock speaker, splice cable - extend cable as needed.
3. Pray to god I can get the molex adapters off - open space for cable.
4. If I do, route source cable from the door to the crossover, and route the door speaker cable from the crossover to the door speaker.
5. Tweeter should be easy enough (I hope) once the crossover is in place and with the appropiate source.

Sounds good?


Do not use the stock wire that is there. Just run a new wire using a stiff wire or a wire hanger. Less headache in the long run.

bebenegro 09-28-2011 12:34 PM

Well, done with the install. At last.

I couldnt stress how much better the system sounds over stock... Still, Ill keep upgrading over the next few months. Next up is an amp/sub. Im in absolutely no hurry to do this, and Ill likely have someone build a nice box so I can mount a 10 inch sub in the rear spare area... Ill likely go the 3 channel route with the amp (so as to also power the polks in the front, likely with ~60 or 75W RMS)... Im not planning on anything overly expensive. Any recommendations on amps that will fit while well hidden?

acelesson 05-18-2016 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat (Post 1328608)
Do not use the stock wire that is there. Just run a new wire using a stiff wire or a wire hanger. Less headache in the long run.

running new wire from where? All the way to the HU? Man that seems like a LOT of work.

When I would change speakers back in the day, Id just pull the old one out and wire the new one in using the existing wire. This is frowned upon now?

Keep in mind, Ive not installed a system in 15 years.

I have a Pioneer 4200NEX and have the itch for some better sound. No subs, just nicer speakers to attach to the HU. I wont be amping. Im not crazy into this...just want some richer sounding music

bigaudiofanat 05-19-2016 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acelesson (Post 3482596)
running new wire from where? All the way to the HU? Man that seems like a LOT of work.

When I would change speakers back in the day, Id just pull the old one out and wire the new one in using the existing wire. This is frowned upon now?

Keep in mind, Ive not installed a system in 15 years.

I have a Pioneer 4200NEX and have the itch for some better sound. No subs, just nicer speakers to attach to the HU. I wont be amping. Im not crazy into this...just want some richer sounding music

My comment was for rear speakers. Sense the base model doesn't have rear speakers there is no pre ran wire back there. You have too run new wire from the head unit to your rears. As for old school yes back in the day it was easier. But today there are many differences such as separate tweeters and woofers (front speakers) that make it hard to use the new crossover included with the new component (again front) speakers. If you have a bose system that has it's own set of issues such as speaker wire isn't running to the radio, its being ran to the trunk to an amp.


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