Speaker Wiring

rreign · 05-02-2009, 06:07 PM

Yep. That's what I suggest anyway. It's just easier to use the stock wiring and put new connectors on them. Just make sure to cut the stock wires back far enough that you can still reconnect the old plug if you ever have to. Also I don't know the wiring diagram for the stock system ( + and - ) so you may have to find that out from someone else.

CBRich · 05-02-2009, 08:59 PM

That's a great suggestion that will keep you from tearing every panel out of the car. Wish I had thought of this before I modified the door plugs on my del Sol.

rreign · 05-02-2009, 09:39 PM

When I did my install on my 6, I tore out everything. I had the trunk linings, the door panels, the dash, the seats (all of them) the carpet, the plastic coverings over the door under the panels all torn out of the car. I did a full sound dampening over everything from the firewall back. After doing all of that, I decided hell no, there has to be an easier way. Thats how I came up with doing the wiring that way. A little research goes a long way ya know. I try to avoid using short cuts as much as possible, but this is a great short cut that won't cause any damage later on.

jbean8510 · 05-03-2009, 12:49 AM

if you cant figure out do this:

take a 9 volt battery and hold the speaker wire one wire to + the other to the - side of the battery. If it the speaker cone pushes out then it is correct. If the cone pulls in, then reverse the wires on the battery and test just to make sure, then you have your match.

bpd138 · 05-03-2009, 06:36 AM

I've searched high and low and I'm at a total loss which speaker wire harness adapter to use. Metra and Scohsce don't have any data for the 370z on their websites yet. Does anyone have the part number?
Thanks
Willie

ConchZ2 · 05-03-2009, 08:56 AM

This what I used...........
SCOSCHE NN04B <br>2007-Up Nissan Wire HARNESS

You will have splice in on the Z harness for pin #6 & 16 since the Scoshe harness is missing these wires IF you want to use the steering wheel controls w/PAC.

Graybullet · 09-04-2009, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rreign

This can go a couple of different ways, but my suggestion for just ease of the install is to leave the OEM wiring where it's at and just connect your speakers straight to the OEM wiring. Then run your speaker wire from the harness to your amp. Connect the RCA's, set your gain and voila. (For a tip on setting your gain you can check here...Rockford T212D2 too much for 370z?

Also, yes you would run your door/dash in parallel.

Sorry to bring this back from the dead...but I'm a bit confuse. So you would connect the oem wire to new speaker (using appropiate connectors). Now keep the oem wiring connected to the oem harness-->connected to metra harness-->connected (with connectors) to Kenwood harness-->connected to the 7140 unit. Now how would I connect the speaker wires from there to the amp? Thanks!

bigaudiofanat · 09-04-2009, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbean8510

NO

You dont need a new amp unless your planning on doing high end audio, otherwise most normal $80-$100 speakers will be fine on a h/u that pushed 50-60w.

Not true at all. That is the head units MAX the head unit will never ever put that out. You always look at what a amp or head units RMS is. That is around 16 watts not near enough for a aftermarket set of speakers. Speakers are going to want probably around 60 watts ,maybe more. Look at the RMS of things never the max.

bigaudiofanat · 09-04-2009, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rreign

This can go a couple of different ways, but my suggestion for just ease of the install is to leave the OEM wiring where it's at and just connect your speakers straight to the OEM wiring. Then run your speaker wire from the harness to your amp. Connect the RCA's, set your gain and voila. (For a tip on setting your gain you can check here...Rockford T212D2 too much for 370z?

Also, yes you would run your door/dash in parallel.

Sorry my man I am going to have to disagree on that one. The amp is probably going to out out around 50 watts to the spakers, the factory wireing is not rely made for that. Also you would get less resistance in the flow of power if you installed new wireing in the doors. It will take some time and you will have to drill a hole in the door but it is possible. The new speakers need the crossover that has come with them. That way they are being fed the proper freq and such. I would run new wire from the amp to the crossover than form there to the speaker and the tweeter. This is all on the theory that you are running components up front.

On a side not you can still use the factory wiring I just recommend upgrading.

speedfreak28 · 09-04-2009, 03:36 PM

well said Matt. take the time and do it right. running too much current thru too small of a guage wire is a fire hazard. Most of us that are into car audio are never satisfied and constantly changing stuff so its better to get your wiring in order first.

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05-02-2009, 06:07 PM	#16 (permalink)
rreign A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Age: 41 Posts: 2,341 Drives: 03 Evo 8 Rep Power: 709	Yep. That's what I suggest anyway. It's just easier to use the stock wiring and put new connectors on them. Just make sure to cut the stock wires back far enough that you can still reconnect the old plug if you ever have to. Also I don't know the wiring diagram for the stock system ( + and - ) so you may have to find that out from someone else.

05-02-2009, 08:59 PM	#17 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 544	That's a great suggestion that will keep you from tearing every panel out of the car. Wish I had thought of this before I modified the door plugs on my del Sol.

05-02-2009, 09:39 PM	#18 (permalink)
rreign A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Age: 41 Posts: 2,341 Drives: 03 Evo 8 Rep Power: 709	When I did my install on my 6, I tore out everything. I had the trunk linings, the door panels, the dash, the seats (all of them) the carpet, the plastic coverings over the door under the panels all torn out of the car. I did a full sound dampening over everything from the firewall back. After doing all of that, I decided hell no, there has to be an easier way. Thats how I came up with doing the wiring that way. A little research goes a long way ya know. I try to avoid using short cuts as much as possible, but this is a great short cut that won't cause any damage later on.

05-03-2009, 12:49 AM	#19 (permalink)
jbean8510 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: peoria illinoise Posts: 10 Drives: 08 350z Rep Power: 16	if you cant figure out do this: take a 9 volt battery and hold the speaker wire one wire to + the other to the - side of the battery. If it the speaker cone pushes out then it is correct. If the cone pulls in, then reverse the wires on the battery and test just to make sure, then you have your match.

05-03-2009, 06:36 AM	#20 (permalink)
bpd138 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 38 Drives: 370Z Auto W/Sport Rep Power: 16	I've searched high and low and I'm at a total loss which speaker wire harness adapter to use. Metra and Scohsce don't have any data for the 370z on their websites yet. Does anyone have the part number? Thanks Willie

05-03-2009, 08:56 AM	#21 (permalink)
ConchZ2 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: connecticut Posts: 329 Drives: 09 370Z red 6sp sprt Rep Power: 16	This what I used........... SCOSCHE NN04B <br>2007-Up Nissan Wire HARNESS You will have splice in on the Z harness for pin #6 & 16 since the Scoshe harness is missing these wires IF you want to use the steering wheel controls w/PAC.

09-04-2009, 03:36 PM	#25 (permalink)
speedfreak28 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: south jersey Posts: 247 Drives: 05 ram, 79 z28 Rep Power: 16	well said Matt. take the time and do it right. running too much current thru too small of a guage wire is a fire hazard. Most of us that are into car audio are never satisfied and constantly changing stuff so its better to get your wiring in order first.