something is still missing
 

OK group. I replaced my door speakers,my tweeters and back mid-range speakers. I had an audio shop that puts in high end audio components. The door speakers and mid-range speakers are hooked up to a nx4 amp. The tweeter are hooked up to the head unit directly. My problem is the tweeters still over power the rest of the frequencies. The guy wants me to buy an $800 processor. Could I use a graphic equalizer? I used to install these as a kid but now it's so much more sophisticated. I do have a 2010 roadster. I would appreciate any input.

I am trying to figure out why the hooked the tweeters up to the head unit. They should of used the crossover that came with the components and maybe switched the -3db on the crossover. Or you should run the tweeters on t channels of the amp and the woofers on the other 2 than tone down the tweeters that way. Or you can try using something like image dynamics tweeters which would be smoother and not as harsh. Which brings me to ask, what tweeters are you running and what woofers?

I would NOT let them suck you into a 800 dollar processor sounds like they are out for money.

One last thought how long have you been running this system? Sometimes tweeters tend to smooth out over time when used.

Running the tweeters of a headunit should be fine(as long as theyres a high pass filter) One simple solution would be to have the tweeters on the front 2 channels and the door speakers on the rear channels of the headunit. That way you could fade to the rear and attenutate the tweeters to a more tolerable level.
Do you mind listing the equipment you're running?

Agree it's fine, but I'd also like to know what else is being run in the system.

My personal preference is either use the passives supplied with the components, or go full active (probably what the shop is thinking, offering the $800 processor - probably with crossover capability). Running anything off the headunit with an outboard amp to me is a kludge. Understand the level matching, but they're bypassing the precise crossover points, slopes, and impedance matching the passive brings to the table.

It would be funny if there's isn't a high pass filter on the tweet. :eek:

speakers didn't do the trick
 

Thanks for taking time to respond to my problem. The stereo guys hooked up my door and back speakers to a Massive NX2 amp.I believe it is a 2 channel but you can only hook up 2 sets of speakers to the amp.
the new speakers are Hertz(ht25 as the tweeters and ecx87 inback and 6x9 triaxil in the door). The amp does have a Hi-pass filter setting on it.I know that the speakers aren't hooked up as component speakers.Was it a component in the 1st place? The Nissan dealer couln't locate the amp and neither could these stereo guys (that was recommended by one of Nissan audio guys.I just want the whole range of frequencies. It's not like I listen to loud music all the time. Most of the time medium volume.It doesn't mean the sounds can't be crisp and sharp. I would appreciate any suggestions. I have a 2010 roadster w/ the Bose that also has the Navigation system.
Thanks,
Z Me Fly

This is a odd setup that's for sure. Should have ran the front's off the main amp and the rears off the deck amp, the rears can handle way less power typically then the fronts due to their small size. That would give the correct balance control fader from front to back, but it sounds like the front stage is a mix bag of 6x9 and a tweeter? No wonder you find the tweeter range in the front sounds overpowering, there are 4 tweets in the front stage with the 6x9's included. Plus with the rears tied to the doors they are both at the same level so you can't fade the back end out to focus the fronts? I think this Audio guy maybe needs a lesson in sound staging? Who would ever put a 6x9 back in the door, I have a touring with Bose which has the 6x9 door setup. I just made a bracket to mount in a typical 6.5" woofer, I am thinking if you adjusted your gains in the main amp you might get a better sound level match or maybe not.

This is just my humble opinion but I'm a guy who has a deadicated media room in his home, I have alway's had custom systems in all my cars including my current FX. I'm not claiming to be any kind of expert, but don't you think by not using the supplied cross over that the manufacter supplied your compromising the sound that the manufacturer had intended for you to hear. Not all cross overs are made the same. Keep in mind they spent many hours in RD and countless dollars to. Have them use the supplied crossovers and then go from there.
Kindest regards,
Tom

I set mine up like Speedfreak described. Pioneer HU, Alpine component speakers, tweets angled toward driver ~15 degrees.
I run the fader biased toward the rear (door speakers) significantly to keep the tweeters balanced with the door speakers. Not sure how other folks tolerate it.

One theory: with both hooked up to the same channel, the door speakers are in parallel with the tweets at high frequency, so the power to the tweets at those frequencies may be reduced (shrug).

Audio
 

Hey Tom,
I agree that crossovers should of been used but these weren't component speakers. I wanted components but I don't think he had 6x9 speakers in a component set. Is this why the sound is not all there?

OK, here's my take on the problem:
1. "hi-pass" filter on the amp cuts the low frequency to the doors and rear. THE OPPOSITE of what you want. Turn it off.

2. Sending full range audio to the dash speakers (even though they are technically full range speakers) is a mistake. The small speakers have a hard time reproducing treble accurately while also handling large-excursion low frequency signals. Install a crossover (just a properly chosen capacitor in line is fine).

3. The overall gain of the door and rears channel (output of the HU - loss in any "speaker to line level" conversion + gain of the power amp) needs to be set carefully. This is probably the main reason for the imbalance. The way I would do this is to pick an audio tone which is in the range of both dash and door/rear speakers (or a 'pink' noise source). Play the tone, and set the amp gain to achieve equal SPL when fader is full front and full rear.

The quick and dirty alternative to all of this is to play a song you are very familiar with, and adjust the front/rear fader on the HU until it sounds right to you.

The 6x9 route is the source of all your problems. Get those things out of the doors and install a proper 6.5 component setup, end of problem. Then run the rears off the HU amp, the rear 3.5" all they need is 20watts rms.

My current setup which sounds great by the way and easy to control. I have a set of POLK DB's running off a Rockford Fosgate Punch 300-2 which rocks, I also have a set of Boston S35's for the rear which I powered from the HU amp and these also rock. Plus the subs.

I have excellent total system control with my current setup, I can fade or balance any single component that I want. The components are easy to install and setup, 6x9's are nothing but trouble.

I can see why he went that route considering that was what the stock Touring bracket is setup for, but everyone has been just making a 6x9 MDF panel for that bracket and mounting the 6.5" driver in there. Works really really well, I would save your $800 buy a set of high end components and never look back.

Okay, now I'm confuzzled... :icon14:

Is it the NX2 or NX4 you've got?

Locate which amp? The factory Bose amp? If no one found it (it's behind the seats underneath the plastic shelves), how is the NX2 (or 4) hooked up to your stereo head unit?

Agree with Juleous: you've got at least two extra sets of tweets, the ones in the dash are sufficient. Replace the 6x9 triaxes (3-ways, right?) with a component woofer (can you exchange those 6x9's?). The rears can stay, but I prefer just a midbass back there for rear fill; if I run rear fill at all.

You got some nice stuff there - but picking good components is just part of the battle. As you probably know, a proper install makes the most money.

back to the stereo guys
 

yes, I called and they are going to replace the speakers with components with a croos over. As far as the amp goes,I upgraded to a NX4 that will take 4 inputs. I use to be a stereo guy but it has been sooooo long ago. I was thinking to have them put in an equalizer. My thought is that I could tune the freq how I want. Is this a good idea? How should I have them wire it correctly. They are receptive to the forums suggestions,as I printed them out all my replies from all of ya'll(from Texas). I am extremely appreciative of nice total stragers helping me out. Ya'll are great.
Dr. Dan (the Z man)
z me fly

Here is the factory Bose amp location, not what you would call hard to find. But if you don't remove the rear hatch panels then the foam block covering this area won't come out. If you don't remove the foam you would never see this area, but there it is.

http://www.the370z.com/members/juleo...y-location.jpg

You have a 4 channel amp, with that you could run front components off one channel set and then the rears off the other. Only problem is that's not an effective use of the amp, as the rears that fit in the factory location are very small. 20 watts is all you need there so I would suggest you wire the rears upto the Headunit amp rear channel output, then run your components off the amp with 4 channels bridged into 2 for max power to the front components. This would be a better setup as your front stage is your focus, so send the power there.

Third option is if your using a sub, then I would have the rears off the HU, the components off 2 channels on the NX4 and bridge the other two channels into one for a subwoofer.

This I think would be the best use of the power you have available in the car. Giving the power where it's needed most, highest power to the sub, medium power to the components and lowest power to the rears.

This setup would give you full fader control and subwoofer control also. Only other suggestion would be to look at a 2ohm component set to pull maximum power out of your amp. If your a tweeker then get a Digital EQ from Audio Control with external interface, otherwise don't bother your HU can tweek the basic treble and bass settings.

Just my suggestions, not a huge amount of options in a little car like the Z.