My Upcoming Configuration
 

bigaudio/Matt will be doing my mods...
I also want to install the Viper 5901 with tilt sensors and glass break sensors, any help on that?

Final components to order:
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- Speaker spacers
Nissan & Infiniti Speaker Spacers

- Zenclosures box (one 10" upfire)
Nissan upfire 370Z 1-10" Sub Box

- Metra axxess steering control
Amazon.com: Metra Axxess ASWC Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface (Black): Electronics

- Metra DIN kit
Amazon.com: Metra 99-7607B Dash Kit for 2009 Nissan 370Z (Matte Black): Electronics

20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B002G DGPDU

- Kicker hyperflex 4 gauge amp kit
Amazon.com: Kicker 05PK4 4-Gauge Single Amplifier Power Kit: Electronics

fkmr0

- Alpine PDX-5
Amazon.com: Alpine PDX-5 - Amplifier - 4-channel plus Mono-power: Electronics

- JL 10w3v3-2
Amazon.com: JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Single 2 ohm 10" W3v3 Subwoofer 10W3v3: Electronics

- Polk Audio MM6501 speakers
Amazon.com: Polk Audio AA6514-A MM6501 6.5-Inch System Speaker System: DiscountsJungle

- Pioneer AVH-P5000DVD (old, already have it)
Lessco: Car Audio, Speakers, LCD Video, Keyless Entry, Remote Start, Alarm, Security System, GPS

- 3 RCA cables (how many feet?), Harness, Antenna cable, Radio cable

3 questions.

1) Why upfire? I was looking at doing upfire, but thought perhaps it may be too much right behind my head? I wish I could hear them both to do a compare, because I heard with the rear fire it sounds a bit boomy?

2) Why Metra axxess steering control?

3) Why not two 10s?

**** EDIT ****
Added another question. :p

[1] Looks cooler cosmetically, most people do get backfiring ones though. I figured I won't have to worry about carrying stuff in the hatch if its an upfire too.. (didn't see a lot of people using the grilles if they would backfire it).

[2] There's PAC and there's Metra Axxess... everyone on the forum said the Metra was easier to configure.

[3] Don't tempt me man :-)
Added another answer.

id ditch the polk's and go with these:

Amazon.com: MB Quart Premium PVI216 6.5" 2-Way Component/Convertible Coaxial Speakers: DiscountsJungle

also get the 10w3v3 in a 4ohm. you're going to want to run your amp in bridged mode for the components, which means its not 2ohm stable

I was thinking the same thing with the hatch as far as not having to worry about hauling things in the back and damaging the speakers. In the same sense I would want to keep stuff from touching the box as well. Obviously keeping the speakers safe is more important.

I have the Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD and installed the PAC SWI-PS without any probs and it works great without any delay. What makes the Metra easier to configure?

I was trying to stay away from two 12s. I have to at least do two 10s. :p

@azIce: I read some posts on the forum about people having trouble with the PAC and the Axxess being easier to setup with the Z.. I did the research over days so I don't really have the technical jargon to explain but yeah I remember some facing lag, and then I started reading threads suggesting the Metra over the PAC (I personally don't care and am not familiar with electrical diagrams etc., I'm just basing it on what the bulk of the forum has been doing really..)

So.. one 10" needs to change to two 10"'s?... I had two 12"'s in my older car and I remember not needing half the power, so I came down to one 12"... and then down to one 10" figuring it should be comparable.. no?

That is all personal preference. One 10 will obvioulsy sound better then nothing at all and for many will be enough. Especially with the small volume in the Z.

I am more of a bass head and like it loud and shacking the shiat out of things. I know I could really get that with two 12s, but until I do a custom job and put the subs farther back in the hatch I'm going to stick with two 10s. Plus the subs I would use need more volume then the Zenclosures box has and that is what I am going with for now.

One 12 is fine I thought for the longest time that 10's were the better one to use for SQ setups. But after using a 12 and seeing that I could go lower and have more power I have to say a 12 is the way to go rather than two 10's. Besides two 10's or two of any sun is nuts in a z.

Hey Matt, what about what chops mentions about going for the 4 ohm sub instead of 2, and what he says about the bridging? (Pardon me, this is all greek to me)... but is that going to pose a problem?

You need the dual 4 ohms for the alpine amp to be running stable at 2 ohms. Or you can run the dual 2 ohms at 4 ohms. If you want more power go with the dvc 4 ohms.

JL Audio 10W3v3 Subwoofers - Car Audio Subwoofers

On that page, how do I tell if its "dual", be it 2 or 4 ohms?

the 10w3v3 is a single voice coil sub. the pdx5 is a 5 channel amp, and im assuming you went with that amp so you can run it in bridged mode - ie. 150 watts x 2 + 300 watts x 1. according to the spec's, the amp is only 4 ohm stable in bridged mode. therefore if you dont want to blow your amp, id suggest you purchase the 10w3v3-4 (4 ohm version). there is no dual voice coil 10w3v3 as bigaudiofanat suggests...

It can run fine at 2 ohms as it says on spec pages and on some websites as along with experience. I do not deal with JL that much as some do. SO this means that if you go with 4 ohm sub your only going to get 300 as if you were to go with another sub and run it at 2 ohms you can get 500 watts.

yes, the pdx 5 can run at 2ohms, but not in bridged mode according to alpine's spec sheets. regardless of impedence, the mono channel on the pdx 5 will ALWAYS run 300watts RMS.

anyway, not trying to argue with anyone here. as per the OP, i was just trying to point out that installing a 2ohm sub, on an amp that is not 2ohm stable in bridged mode will likely burn up the amp.

you can go ahead and buy the 2ohm sub, and just run the amp in normal 5 channel mode, with 75 watts going to each channel and 300 watts going to the sub at 2ohm, but whats the point? you have 2 channels being wasted...unless you're going to be idiotic and install some 4" speakers in the rear. you're better off giving the full 150 watts to the front components.

the 4 channels being bridged is 4 ohms stable the sub channel can go to 2 ohms the one I did in california is still running fine at 2 ohms.

Right on alpines website

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

Overview

Class-D
1/2 Channel Operation
Stackable Installation Design
RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20-20kHz)

Per channel into 4 ohms: 75W x 4 (0.08% THD)
Mono channel into 2 ohms: 300W (20-200Hz)