Anyone here running a seperate battery

boomboom · 12-21-2010, 02:27 AM

I was thinking about getting a kinetic cause i hate when my lights flash each time the bass hits. Has anyone done this, is it a good idea or not needed

bigaudiofanat · 12-21-2010, 08:24 AM

First you are going to want to do "the big 3" before starting to think about a second battery. If after doing that you are still having a problem than you look at a second battery.

You will beed a battery, some type of strap down method, 4 gauge or much prefered by many 0 gauge wire going from your first battery to your second and the same thickness ground wire. Also a second fuse. Than you might want to look at a bigger alternator after doing these as this will increase the strain on your charging system.

90 ST · 12-21-2010, 01:26 PM

I've done the big 3, and still had slight dimming, a cap fixed it.

boomboom · 12-21-2010, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90 ST

I've done the big 3, and still had slight dimming, a cap fixed it.

Ha! what's the big 3? I have a cap it helped but they still dimmed a bit.

90 ST · 12-22-2010, 12:10 AM

upgrade grounds from Bat to car, power from Alt to Bat. eng to car

The only real reason to add a second battery is if you plan on doing a lot of listen with the car off, or have a SLP system. For SQ and normal use a cap is the way to go, a cap will charge and discharge way faster then a battery, thus doing away with the dimming lights ect, as long as you've upgraded the rest. A second battery will put additional strain on the Alt, which in the long run with hurt the car more, unless you upgrade the Alt too, which in these cars is not as easy as some old no computer cars.

boomboom · 12-22-2010, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90 ST

upgrade grounds from Bat to car, power from Alt to Bat. eng to car

The only real reason to add a second battery is if you plan on doing a lot of listen with the car off, or have a SLP system. For SQ and normal use a cap is the way to go, a cap will charge and discharge way faster then a battery, thus doing away with the dimming lights ect, as long as you've upgraded the rest. A second battery will put additional strain on the Alt, which in the long run with hurt the car more, unless you upgrade the Alt too, which in these cars is not as easy as some old no computer cars.

I think I will start with just getting a nice quality cap. The one I have is called power accustics just says pC6C on the back.I think it's pretty old can you guys point me to a really good cap? But affordable

Also the Big3 Is there a kit of some kind I can get?

90 ST · 12-22-2010, 02:33 AM

No kits that i've seen, It's mostly just run an additional ground from the battery to car,the same size as your power wire or bigger. Even this one thing will help, i swapped the stock "wire" for a 4 AWG and added a 0AWG, as that was the size of my power wire. The rest is just a matter of replaceing the stock wire with bigger wire. As for Caps, the Streetwires ones are not expensive, and are one of the quickest charge/discharge ones out there. Also 1 fared is about as big as you want to go. the muli fared caps start acting like batteries thus redusing the charge/discharge time. If one needed more capasitance then you would link together 1 fared caps.
Also swapping to a good battery as i noticed you asked about would also be a good thing.

n1cd · 12-22-2010, 10:07 PM

I use 3 caps on 3 amps on my other little show/race 95 Sport neon, and run a yellow top gel batt. 1 cap for front,, one for fill/rear and one for 2-12 sealed comp kickers with sock alt and never had a problem with any low volts. Cap are a must for amps.

bigaudiofanat · 12-23-2010, 03:35 PM

Caps are more of a quick fix and a bandaid rather than a full fix of a bigger problem. They take some of the strain off your electricle system but still put strain on it for charging itself back up. Do it right the first time and omit caps.

90 ST · 12-23-2010, 04:45 PM

Caps offer what "doing it the right way" can't, and that is a fast dischrage for heavy bass notes. i'm not saying by putting in a cap it will fix all of your problems, you have to do the big 3 for that, and if you still have slight dimming then add a cap.

A little reading i found for you,
I've heard the question asked many times before, 'Do I really need a capacitor?' Before answering that question I ask, 'Do you have a high powered system?' 'Does it require sudden power bursts?' 'Is your amplifier being robbed of power?' If the answers to my questions are yes, make every effort to connect a capacitor to your car audio system.

A capacitor is a bit similar to your car battery; it stores electrical energy. But unlike a battery it doesn't produce its own power, it simply stores it. A car audio capacitor will help you get the most from your amplifier. It will store power for release on demand, delivering it to your amplifier just when it's needed.

Your car amplifier requires a lot of power to play loud music, especially when there's lots of heavy bass. Without a capacitor your amplifier will be robbed of power by parts like your lights, engine, and air conditioner.

So what happens when your car audio amplifier doesn't receive enough power?

A common occurrence is dimming lights. In such a situation the light will follow the beat of the music. The light will dim each time a heavy bass note sounds. If you were to turn off the lights, your car stereo system would suddenly sound louder and the music would be cleaner.

Your amplifier is simply trying to use more energy than the electrical system can supply. If a capacitor had been present there would have been enough energy to power your amp. That electrical energy would have already been stored.

When you want to reduce headlight dimming, improve bass response, and increase the power of your amp, a stiffening capacitor is a must. Equipped with capacitor and an adequate power supply, your system will get every bit of current it needs. Voltage drops will be a thing of the past.
Roger Charles is a successful author and publisher of Car Stereos Guide

speedfreak28 · 12-23-2010, 04:50 PM

A second battery isnt always the answer. Do you have a little more info about your install? total wattage used? Depending on your answer the suggestions change. The right way to fix it is a high output alternator. If you do decide that a cap or second battery is the answer check out Kinetik HC800, solid power in a small package.

boomboom · 12-23-2010, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedfreak28

A second battery isnt always the answer. Do you have a little more info about your install? total wattage used? Depending on your answer the suggestions change. The right way to fix it is a high output alternator. If you do decide that a cap or second battery is the answer check out Kinetik HC800, solid power in a small package.

I am running 2 amps one is 1000 watts the other 75x4

speedfreak28 · 12-24-2010, 12:54 AM

What amps? Im just curious what class they are, If they are A/B thats most likely the issue, they draw a ton of current. Usually I reccomend electrical upgrades if you go over 800-1000 watts especially with high powered subwoofers.

speedfreak28 · 12-24-2010, 01:03 AM

Just looked back at your older posts. Memphis amps are NOTORIOUS for being power hungry. As stated earlier a second battery is really a temporary solution for a bigger problem. A high output alternator is definitely the right approach.

Something else to consider would be the possibility of selling the amps your using and replacing them with something a little more efficient. The JL HD series Arc XXD or Alpines PDX comes to mind.

boomboom · 12-24-2010, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedfreak28

Just looked back at your older posts. Memphis amps are NOTORIOUS for being power hungry. As stated earlier a second battery is really a temporary solution for a bigger problem. A high output alternator is definitely the right approach.

Something else to consider would be the possibility of selling the amps your using and replacing them with something a little more efficient. The JL HD series Arc XXD or Alpines PDX comes to mind.

Gonna keep what I have currently for 1 more year save and then get a completely new system. Prolly mostly Image Dynamic stuff. For now can you recommend a good alternator? So I wouldn't need a cap then if I get the alternator?

I guess if I buy the alternator now at least I will have it for the next system.

12-21-2010, 02:27 AM	#1 (permalink)
boomboom Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: WI Posts: 438 Drives: 09 NISSAN 370Z Rep Power: 16	Anyone here running a seperate battery I was thinking about getting a kinetic cause i hate when my lights flash each time the bass hits. Has anyone done this, is it a good idea or not needed

12-21-2010, 08:24 AM	#2 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	First you are going to want to do "the big 3" before starting to think about a second battery. If after doing that you are still having a problem than you look at a second battery. You will beed a battery, some type of strap down method, 4 gauge or much prefered by many 0 gauge wire going from your first battery to your second and the same thickness ground wire. Also a second fuse. Than you might want to look at a bigger alternator after doing these as this will increase the strain on your charging system. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

12-22-2010, 12:10 AM	#5 (permalink)
90 ST A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Calgary Posts: 1,861 Drives: 90 and 15 GMC Sierra Rep Power: 421	upgrade grounds from Bat to car, power from Alt to Bat. eng to car The only real reason to add a second battery is if you plan on doing a lot of listen with the car off, or have a SLP system. For SQ and normal use a cap is the way to go, a cap will charge and discharge way faster then a battery, thus doing away with the dimming lights ect, as long as you've upgraded the rest. A second battery will put additional strain on the Alt, which in the long run with hurt the car more, unless you upgrade the Alt too, which in these cars is not as easy as some old no computer cars. Last edited by 90 ST; 12-22-2010 at 12:15 AM.

12-22-2010, 02:33 AM	#7 (permalink)
90 ST A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Calgary Posts: 1,861 Drives: 90 and 15 GMC Sierra Rep Power: 421	No kits that i've seen, It's mostly just run an additional ground from the battery to car,the same size as your power wire or bigger. Even this one thing will help, i swapped the stock "wire" for a 4 AWG and added a 0AWG, as that was the size of my power wire. The rest is just a matter of replaceing the stock wire with bigger wire. As for Caps, the Streetwires ones are not expensive, and are one of the quickest charge/discharge ones out there. Also 1 fared is about as big as you want to go. the muli fared caps start acting like batteries thus redusing the charge/discharge time. If one needed more capasitance then you would link together 1 fared caps. Also swapping to a good battery as i noticed you asked about would also be a good thing. Last edited by 90 ST; 12-22-2010 at 02:36 AM.

12-23-2010, 03:35 PM	#9 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Caps are more of a quick fix and a bandaid rather than a full fix of a bigger problem. They take some of the strain off your electricle system but still put strain on it for charging itself back up. Do it right the first time and omit caps. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

12-21-2010, 01:26 PM	#3 (permalink)
90 ST A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Calgary Posts: 1,861 Drives: 90 and 15 GMC Sierra Rep Power: 421	I've done the big 3, and still had slight dimming, a cap fixed it.

12-22-2010, 10:07 PM	#8 (permalink)
n1cd Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Melbourne FL Posts: 72 Drives: 370Z Nismo Black 336 Rep Power: 15	I use 3 caps on 3 amps on my other little show/race 95 Sport neon, and run a yellow top gel batt. 1 cap for front,, one for fill/rear and one for 2-12 sealed comp kickers with sock alt and never had a problem with any low volts. Cap are a must for amps.

12-23-2010, 04:45 PM	#10 (permalink)
90 ST A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Calgary Posts: 1,861 Drives: 90 and 15 GMC Sierra Rep Power: 421	Caps offer what "doing it the right way" can't, and that is a fast dischrage for heavy bass notes. i'm not saying by putting in a cap it will fix all of your problems, you have to do the big 3 for that, and if you still have slight dimming then add a cap. A little reading i found for you, I've heard the question asked many times before, 'Do I really need a capacitor?' Before answering that question I ask, 'Do you have a high powered system?' 'Does it require sudden power bursts?' 'Is your amplifier being robbed of power?' If the answers to my questions are yes, make every effort to connect a capacitor to your car audio system. A capacitor is a bit similar to your car battery; it stores electrical energy. But unlike a battery it doesn't produce its own power, it simply stores it. A car audio capacitor will help you get the most from your amplifier. It will store power for release on demand, delivering it to your amplifier just when it's needed. Your car amplifier requires a lot of power to play loud music, especially when there's lots of heavy bass. Without a capacitor your amplifier will be robbed of power by parts like your lights, engine, and air conditioner. So what happens when your car audio amplifier doesn't receive enough power? A common occurrence is dimming lights. In such a situation the light will follow the beat of the music. The light will dim each time a heavy bass note sounds. If you were to turn off the lights, your car stereo system would suddenly sound louder and the music would be cleaner. Your amplifier is simply trying to use more energy than the electrical system can supply. If a capacitor had been present there would have been enough energy to power your amp. That electrical energy would have already been stored. When you want to reduce headlight dimming, improve bass response, and increase the power of your amp, a stiffening capacitor is a must. Equipped with capacitor and an adequate power supply, your system will get every bit of current it needs. Voltage drops will be a thing of the past. Roger Charles is a successful author and publisher of Car Stereos Guide Last edited by 90 ST; 12-23-2010 at 04:55 PM.

12-23-2010, 04:50 PM	#11 (permalink)
speedfreak28 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: south jersey Posts: 247 Drives: 05 ram, 79 z28 Rep Power: 16	A second battery isnt always the answer. Do you have a little more info about your install? total wattage used? Depending on your answer the suggestions change. The right way to fix it is a high output alternator. If you do decide that a cap or second battery is the answer check out Kinetik HC800, solid power in a small package.

12-24-2010, 12:54 AM	#13 (permalink)
speedfreak28 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: south jersey Posts: 247 Drives: 05 ram, 79 z28 Rep Power: 16	What amps? Im just curious what class they are, If they are A/B thats most likely the issue, they draw a ton of current. Usually I reccomend electrical upgrades if you go over 800-1000 watts especially with high powered subwoofers.

12-24-2010, 01:03 AM	#14 (permalink)
speedfreak28 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: south jersey Posts: 247 Drives: 05 ram, 79 z28 Rep Power: 16	Just looked back at your older posts. Memphis amps are NOTORIOUS for being power hungry. As stated earlier a second battery is really a temporary solution for a bigger problem. A high output alternator is definitely the right approach. Something else to consider would be the possibility of selling the amps your using and replacing them with something a little more efficient. The JL HD series Arc XXD or Alpines PDX comes to mind. Last edited by speedfreak28; 12-24-2010 at 01:05 AM.

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