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Can you get decent bass without a SUB?

maybe put a thin layer of foam between the z logo and the grille to help insulate it? if i had a Z, that sounds exactly what setup i would

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Old 12-11-2010, 12:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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maybe put a thin layer of foam between the z logo and the grille to help insulate it?

if i had a Z, that sounds exactly what setup i would have
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes you can get bass without a sub. When I installed a set of Image Dynamics components in California before the sub was even installed there was a good amount of solid bass when they were powered by 110 watts from the amp. It was shaking the mirror and you could feel it quite a bit. If you get a good set that have a lot of excursion and power them with a good amp there is no reason why you can not get good bass.
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKYStormFront View Post
maybe put a thin layer of foam between the z logo and the grille to help insulate it?
Yeah, I think a local electronics surplus place sells speaker grille foam....
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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can i power a 10" sub and 2 speakers from one amp?
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:52 PM   #20 (permalink)
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To update my sub info: works perfectly for what I want. Spare tire enclosure, 10 inch flat driver, Polk 300w amp. Only problem is the 'Z-logo' carpet 'rattles' against the driver grille. Hold it up and rattle is gone. Swapped in the cheapo standard carpet, and it sounds great. Way more bottom end than I need.


LOL, seriously though, this is the solution I am leaning towards, could you post some pics of your enclosure? Did you use the Pioneer flat 10"?
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Old 12-12-2010, 01:54 AM   #21 (permalink)
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can i power a 10" sub and 2 speakers from one amp?
You bet you can, a nice 4 channel, or a 3 channel amp and you'er good to go.
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Old 12-12-2010, 01:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKYStormFront View Post
maybe put a thin layer of foam between the z logo and the grille to help insulate it?

if i had a Z, that sounds exactly what setup i would have
Home Depot sells a roll of 1/8th in. thick foam with an adhesive backing. It's around 7 dollars and is in their ac duct isle. Works great and there will be plenty left over use at random, buzzing panels etc.

Asking a 6.5 mid to run into the lower octaves while still being able to faithfully reproduce the signal all the way up to 2K plus the rolloff above the crossover frequency is a tall order. What you gain in the low octaves you would lose in the higher octaves in terms of volume of output of the mids.

A good 4 channel amp for your application will allow you to run the front component speakers with a high pass crossover and the other 2 channels should have a low pass crossover for your sub(s). With a high pass crossover on your front components, you can get them louder overall than without.

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Old 12-12-2010, 08:24 PM   #23 (permalink)
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your question said can you get DECENT bass imo yes you can without an extra amp and sub. if your not an audio nut. i had a base unit and went with a set of jbl component spearkers and a dd jvc head unit. and the sq is way better. but thats imho.
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:01 PM   #24 (permalink)
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A fanatic audiophile will tell you no bc they just wont admit it. However, I installed Hertz hsk165 components in my lexus is300 and used a **** load of sound deadening in the doors and sealed them. Feeding them 125 watts of clean power I couldnt tell a difference in bass with my subwoofer on or off.

In a car like a 370z with very little cabin space, high quality compnents produce plenty of "bass".
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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A fanatic audiophile will tell you no bc they just wont admit it. However, I installed Hertz hsk165 components in my lexus is300 and used a **** load of sound deadening in the doors and sealed them. Feeding them 125 watts of clean power I couldnt tell a difference in bass with my subwoofer on or off.

In a car like a 370z with very little cabin space, high quality compnents produce plenty of "bass".
I disagree, given that I am a audiophile at home and in the car I do want a sub with my setup. Even with my martin logans at home I still want a 2.1 setup sometimes because it is needed. Not saying I want massive amounts of bass but a good balance throughout all frequencies. A good set of component speakers will give you solid bass but can not go as low as a normal sub so they are needed.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I agree with Matt here. I have the Hertz 165 XLs and they do a remarkable job in the low end, but they cannot replace the naunces a true subwoofer brings to the party. A good friend of mine owns a shop, and competes in both Iasca and Meca with me. We had the RTA in his car for tuning prior to state championships, and his door speakers, with subs off hit 30 hz. Of course they don't have the authority of a 10" or 12" sub. The casual listener can sit in my car with the sub turned off, and not notice that its missing....But when I turn it on, it opens up everything else, not just the sub-frequencies, and thats when the eyes light up, and they hear the true sound.
In a properly tuned system, the subwoofer should not be overpowering, and actually a flat frequency response sounds rather lifeless in the lower octaves, but when they are there, it makes everything else shine. Its a total package. Just for giggles, turn off your fronts and just listen to your sub, see how odd it sounds by itself...add everything else, and its good to go. They work hand in hand, and shouldn't be separated.
DECENT Bass from a 6.5" component speaker...Of course. DECENT SUB Bass... No.
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Old 11-04-2013, 03:53 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Ditto those two above.

Yes... you can get bass from a good solid midrange in a good sealed and damped door with a decent amount of power. Matter of fact, I ran Anarchy 6.5s/7s in my doors in the Tahoe, and after SEVERAL rebuilds and a TON of money put into labor and materials, I got pretty dang close to the sound I was looking for - sheet metal and extruded butyl rope for sealing doors up, viscoelastic mat for damping and mass-loaded vinyl and closed-cell foam for barrier and rattle treatment. Eventually made fiberglass in-door enclosures for them. Solid, up-front bass, and could hammer pretty nicely down to 50, maybe 40Hz.

But for real, authoritative sub-bass, you're just going to HAVE to have a dedicated subwoofer. And how much is considered "enough" is so subjective, it's really not a conversation to have online... in-person listening is the only realistic option.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:13 AM   #28 (permalink)
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My Rockford Fostgate P165 speakers give some solid bass for a 6.5. They can make all 3 mirrors shake. I still ended up buying a sub just to get the real deal.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:47 AM   #29 (permalink)
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My Rockford Fostgate P165 speakers give some solid bass for a 6.5. They can make all 3 mirrors shake. I still ended up buying a sub just to get the real deal.
I have to agree with the Fosgates. I was really surprised in my 4Runner by how much bass the produced.

I my first Z, I ran Polk components and they produced ok bass.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:52 AM   #30 (permalink)
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There's no doubt at all, if you put the time, money and effort into sealing and damping your doors and run enough power, you'll get the best output out of your components. Just dropping them in stock locations with no other treatment is bound to get you mediocre results... case in point is my Dynaudios. Arguable some of the most highly-reputed midbass speakers on the market, and I'm not happy with them at all. Haven't put the time and effort into them I did in the Tahoe... that's on the list come springtime.

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