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:roflpuke2: :roflpuke2: :roflpuke2: |
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Brian - the solution your working sounds good and we all appreciate the hard work and the good quality you've delivered so far. The price is at the high end for me...I was thinking it would fall under $100...but its not yet a deal breaker at $150 considering the complications coming to light. Your camera kit was top notch so I hope the price point on this doesn't drive the demand away.
What would the price difference be if there was a partial kit/DIY that could use the same type of switch/remote but may require some splicing? |
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Ya. The labour is the issue on this kit as he is going to be building this wire loom by hand and there are a considerable number of wires that will need to be inserted into each end of the harness, plus the switch/remote configuration.
Keep in mind people, this is a kit that would take a tech a couple of hours to install in a shop ($150 labour there) plus at least a couple of hours to assemble by an electronics tech (wire loom, connectors, config $150) plus parts ($50-$75) Brian needs a reason to do this other than the goodness of his heart.... :tup: |
I would still be interested in the remote option at the $150 price point, but not till after the holidays. I also had a few questions: I haven't had time yet to install my back-up camera kit yet, so I was just wondering if there is enough space behind the dash to hook up the back-up camera kit with the bypass kit and remote module. Also, do these all just plug into each other?
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The two harnesses plug into different components so they are independent of each other. There is a lot of room behind the nav head so it shouldn't be an issue....
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$150 does seem a bit steep for me... would a DIY kit be possible where basically we'd be putting the harness together ourselves? and I think I'd probably just get the harness by itself without a switch/remote and figure that out on my own.
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Putting together the harness is the time consuming part, it involves crimping and soldering lots of tiny pins that are then inserted in to the housings. In theory I could provide a bag of bits, but I don't think many would want that because unless you have had a lot of practice you are likely to make mistakes (I know I did and I play with this stuff all the time). You would also need the correct tools that you would likely have to purchase. I think anyone inclined enough to do that would probably have gone the complete DIY route. |
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1=positive to high position 2=illumination of high pilot light 3=power from 12v source 4=positive to low posotion 5=8v illum from "headlights on" source 6=illumination of low pilot light Anyone able to confirm or correct this? Thanks:tiphat: |
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We appear to agree on 1, 3 & 4 I'm surprised there in no ground/earth in your list but will see when the switch arrives. Did you meter the plug while disconnected from the switch? |
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