Ok. 2/2 will work. It's still an "exclusive" club.
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12-03-2010, 04:21 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Ok. 2/2 will work. It's still an "exclusive" club.
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12-03-2010, 05:28 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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Allright, I took the snow cover off of RoZy and disassembled the console to get the pinouts for the seat heater switch.
This is the stock switch The pinouts are perfect for us here. The top right pin is full 12V input for the pilot lights above or below the Hi Lo indicators and the bottom right pin is 8V for the neon glow heated seat that comes on with the interior lighting. The four pins on the left are exactly what you would expect two poles in each direction that engage as the switch is rocked forward or backward. A sticker could be printed and applied above the existing heated seat info and we could then use the switch for forward VSS engaged normal driving, centre VSS Bypass, and rear Camera On. There is even a handy 12V signal and 8V signal sitting at either of the two stock seat heater switches to draw from. If you don't have heated seats, you probably still have the harness in this location. and this is the generic rocker switch in the STDP config (on - on) There is a generic switch that does on-off-on as well so ignore the fact that I have just the STDP switch for now. When you rock forward you engage the two rear poles and when you rock backward you engage the front two poles. This is a look at how it looks in the console. I'm not sure I could live with it... It's not fully seated cuz I didn't want to fight to get it out, but you get the idea. I am going to have to say that the heated seat switch is the classiest way to do this and now all we need to do is find a way to print up an adhesive label that will cover the stock info with the correct info and we will have a professional switch solution. You may send cases of fine beer to me in appreciation. If you are too cheap for fine beer, rep points are always appreciated!
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12-03-2010, 05:44 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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I believe the earth (ground) will be the centre two poles on the left side. The 12V feeds to the Hi and Lo settings as they are selected so i believe they use the centre two pins for separate grounds so both lights don't come on at the same time.
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12-03-2010, 06:01 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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There goes my 2/2 plan.
OK, so 3/3 will work. Numbered though, and I want #2. BUT NO MORE!!
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12-03-2010, 06:03 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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I would consider using the generic three position switch if the plastic was of higher quality and matched the interior better. Otherwise, the factory look is by far the best.
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12-03-2010, 06:24 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Perhaps the thread title should include 2010?
I think a sticker could be printed but a little tricky to cover the HI / LO and and say something else - could those be scraped off the surface of the switch or are they printed on the underside of the clear lens?
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12-03-2010, 06:34 PM | #39 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Looking at the switch 1 2 3 4 5 6 It looks to me like 2 and 6 are the illumination circuit and if measured in situ that would explain the lower voltage 3 is +12V from relay feed for heated seats 1 goes positive in one position (1 and 3 being connected) 4 goes positive in the other position (3 and 4 being connected) 5 is ground use to illuminate the position 1 and 2 lights based on position of switch and obviously in the central position 3 isn't connected to either 1 or 4 |
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12-03-2010, 07:02 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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yea, the seat warmer switch looks way better. i think the best look would be scraping off the 'hi' and 'low' text, masking off the clear area, and then painting the rest of the switch black.
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12-03-2010, 07:14 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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Each seat warmer switch will be modified with a mod serial number so everyone will know your position in build series. Switch serial #1 for me!
jk seriously.... you guys kill me! BTW Brian, do you think you can get the female connector end to go into the seat warmer switch? If that is part of the harness we are laughing!
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12-04-2010, 12:18 AM | #45 (permalink) |
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