power rating for stock radio?
 

I just got my car and the stereo is pretty crappy as most of you now if you are in the stereo portion of the forum. What my plans are, is use the Infinity Kappa 63.9's (3 way 6.5') in my doors. Infinity Kappa 692.5's (old model 2 way 6x9's) in a trapiziod shaped boxes placed in the trunk. I am undecided on if I want to save space by placing them infront of the strut towers or not screaming in my ears and place them in the back of the trunk facing toward the hatch. I also have a IDQ 12" sub in a .8' box w/ MB quarts discus 600watt RMS (it is a little over kill but it was the right price and the IDQ's are way under rated + my gain is turned down). I will leave the stock tweeters unless they just shound horrible with the rest of my system then I will get order some Infinity tweeters. I will cross that bridge when I get there.

I have an Avionixx 440.4 amp 85rmsx4 for my surrounds should be perfect for that I have. I was building this system for another car but the motor died so I got my new one:tup:. I just looked and my amp doesn't have high level in puts. The high to low input convertor I am looking at says it is rated for not more than 15watts. Is there much difference in $5 and $50 ones other than fancy packaging. I am going to hide it as much as possible. I just want it to work.

I also am not sure how I will set the sub in. The box is just a cube. 14.5 or 15" X 14.5 or 15" X 8". I can't remember, but it is in that neighborhood. The amp is mount on the back with the sub facing down. The old car had a roll cage that the front rested with the sides being held up but the 6x9 boxes mentioned above. What would be a decent way to mount in the car? I am kinda nervous to take the amp off since I screwed it on to it. I don't want to unseal the box. Kinda tall to set in its an edge. It I fix legs to it or 1-2 in blocks. I hate to put holes in my new car. Do you think Velco is strong enough to keep it form sliding around the truck?

Sorry for the novel and thanks for any input.

What is your question? Velcro?

What is the stock rating of the stock head unit in watts. I am looking at a high level (speaker wire to low level (rca) convertor. The one I am looking at says it is good up to 15 watt.

Get a good LOC, like the ReQ. Also don't put in the 6x9's, it's not a Trans AM. i would just run the comp up front, pull out the crappy stock tweeter, don't bother messing around with it, and the sub, i would just make a different box for it to make it a little cleaner.

i just reread your post, sell the speakers you have and GET a componate set for the front, nothing is needed in the back, other then the sub. and you can take the amp off the box, you could alway take the sub out and reseal the holes the screws for the amp made.

Stock head unit is only putting out around 8 watts if that. I second getting a LOC like the mtx re-q for input to new amps. Or just use a new head unit. No rears are needed just do components.

I just installed the 63.9 in the doors. I just hooked them up to the stock unit no amp. It sounds better than it did. This will get me by til I have get all my wires and convertors bought. I saw in a sticky that you can get a panel for the dash so you can run a single din. I don't if I want to do that or not. I like the stock look. I may change my mind when it comes time to install the sub.

Check, my album, i'm running a single din.

Be carefull running those kappas off the stock head unit. The Kappas may be 2 ohm speakers and the stock hu may not be able to handle them for very long. I wouldnt care much though; the base HU is not much of a piece worth saving.

the stock speakers had "clarion 2 Ohm peak 40watt" printed on the back of the magnet.

You have gotten good advice so far but i will add to it.

Ditch the 6X9's and the cube sub enclosure in favor of a Zenclosure for your Z.

Keep the amps and use them. Take your 4 channel amp and bridge it to 2channels for you fronts and get a decent set of 2-way components.

DO NOT BUY A CHEAP LOC!!!!! That is the best advice I can give you!

I have attached a schematic to make a high end LOC that I paid over a $100 bucks for and I reverse engineered it to be made for about 10 bucks. I wont mention the brand as I am sure the company would not apprechiate what I am doing but I will tell you they are the best in the industry.

This LOC is designed to be used with an amplified signal up to 100watts rms per channel. you can wire it to the speaker outputs on the stock head unit and then you can run RCA directly to your amps.

You will need to make 2 of them. This LOC will give you the cleanest signal without degradation of sound that you get from the LOCs that use transformers.

I have only seen 4 ohms the bose are 2 ohms or different. I would only put 4 ohm speakers in place of the stock unless you are installing a external amp.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p.../2ohmpic-1.png http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...03/2ohmpic.png[/IMG]

sorry for the terrible pic but my camera phone sux. The magnet was too reflective and the dot matrix lettering was hard to pick up with a phone that doesn't focus.



The amp I have is ratedat 12.5 volts.
■MAX Power @ 4ohm 2x440 Watts Bridged
■RMS Power @ 4ohm, <0.05% THD 4x85
■RMS Power @ Bridged 4 ohm <0.5% THD 2x220
■RMS Power @ 2 ohm, <0.5% THD 4x110
The z charges 14.5. So my amp is going to be throwing out even more. My speakers fronts are rated for 75rms. I don't mind over powering them a little but bridged I am asking for problems.

Thats why amps have gain knobs so you can turn down the power they are outputting.

my understanding of a gain knobs is that it isn't a volume it adjsuter. It sets the sensitivity of the amp. You are still throughing that much rms the to the speaker.