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$1000-$1200 budget

Hey guys, can I get some advice on some of these car audio components I have selected for my future build: alpine pdx-5 Amazon.com: Alpine PDX-5 - Amplifier - 4-channel

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Old 10-10-2010, 02:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default $1000-$1200 budget

Hey guys, can I get some advice on some of these car audio components I have selected for my future build:

alpine pdx-5
Amazon.com: Alpine PDX-5 - Amplifier - 4-channel plus Mono-power: Electronics
$328

clarion nx500
$539.00
CLARION NX500 2-DIN 6.5" DVD/GPS/NAVIGATION/BLUETOOTH

Boston Acoustics SR60
$200
Boston Acoustics SR60 - 6-1/2" Component Speakers System - Sonic Electronix

I'm in need of a subwoofer and will get the zenclosure for a 12"...Can someone give me some input on my items? Any recommendations?

I listen to mostly hip-hop and rock. I used to have a pheonix gold 6.5 component setup w/ a kicker zx1000.1 and a kicker cvx 12" in a ported box in my old scion tc...

Thanks guys!!!
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would look at other companies for components, boston is alright but there is better stuff out there. Look at the polk mm, or the db and mb quarts.
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
I would look at other companies for components, boston is alright but there is better stuff out there. Look at the polk mm, or the db and mb quarts.
you are right, I did some more research and found the polk audio db6501's to be damn good for the price

-

it seems like you know a heck of alot about audio , what do you recommend i use for a subwoofer on the alpine pdx-5? also, i am not interested in the features of a navi-unit, it fills the gap in just great but i am not interested in the features of a navi-unit. do you recommend i get the metra or sosche trim kit and fit a single din unit there? if so, what do you recommend - and will it look like crap or fit flush ?

thank you sir.
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Old 10-10-2010, 03:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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maybe this Pioneer DEH-P6200BT instead of the clarion?
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you go for the Pioneer through Amazon, I know theres a couple of 30% off coupons floating around for Pioneer gear. Try this coupon just before checkout: VRCBKCX6

I have an AVH-p3200BT and it works great; but one thing to watch out for with Pioneer products is BlueTooth Audio streaming. Iven with the 'BT' after the model number; audio streeming will cost you another $200 for the right BT module.


If that coupon doesnt work you can try searching for a new one over at www.slickdeals.net; and for anything else for that matter.

I'm partial to the shallow Pioneer subwoofers but also hear 'ok' things about the JL shallow mounts.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unclemeaty View Post
If you go for the Pioneer through Amazon, I know theres a couple of 30% off coupons floating around for Pioneer gear. Try this coupon just before checkout: VRCBKCX6

I have an AVH-p3200BT and it works great; but one thing to watch out for with Pioneer products is BlueTooth Audio streaming. Iven with the 'BT' after the model number; audio streeming will cost you another $200 for the right BT module.


If that coupon doesnt work you can try searching for a new one over at www.slickdeals.net; and for anything else for that matter.

I'm partial to the shallow Pioneer subwoofers but also hear 'ok' things about the JL shallow mounts.
Thank you sir! I never thought about bluetooth streaming, that sounds like a feature i might be interested in...Is there any particular model that you recommend? What kind of system do you have?

Thanks buddy!
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Why not just build a carputer?
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Why not just build a carputer?
You're right, and while I'm at it, I should also find a cure for world hunger.
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Grand total of $1065 for dvd/bluetooth/Garmin gps/ipod control/backup cam/and kept my steering wheel controls

just my 2 cents - i just installed this in my car two days ago - kenwood 6160 ($710), pioneer ndbc4 backup cam ($140), infinity kappa componets ($120), aswc sterring wheel control ($35)+wiring harness and antenna adapter(25$), speaker wire ($35). never needed an amp when i ran the infinitys before, and they sound pretty amazing in the 370z
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have the PDX-5 and the BA SR60's. Very happy with both products. Was told by my installer that the Boston Acoustics blew him away with their quality and sound as he typically deals with higher end audio. I haven't heard anything in their price range that sound as good personally.
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdrshocker View Post
Grand total of $1065 for dvd/bluetooth/Garmin gps/ipod control/backup cam/and kept my steering wheel controls

just my 2 cents - i just installed this in my car two days ago - kenwood 6160 ($710), pioneer ndbc4 backup cam ($140), infinity kappa componets ($120), aswc sterring wheel control ($35)+wiring harness and antenna adapter(25$), speaker wire ($35). never needed an amp when i ran the infinitys before, and they sound pretty amazing in the 370z
Thanks! Was the wiring / steering wheel control harness difficult to install?
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cdawg410 View Post
I have the PDX-5 and the BA SR60's. Very happy with both products. Was told by my installer that the Boston Acoustics blew him away with their quality and sound as he typically deals with higher end audio. I haven't heard anything in their price range that sound as good personally.
That is very reassuring, thank you sir! Did you just install front components? Nothing in the rear for that "filler" effect?
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm partial to buying the old nastalgic amps from the 90s. Thay can be had for dimes on the dollar through Craigslist or even ebay if you are patient.

I bought 2 Precision Power Powerclass amps off Craigslist for the most amazing deal. These amps are now legendary artifacts only superceeded by the PPI Art series and anything produced by Zed Audio, Orion, and old-skool Rockford.

PPI PC2150 (150x2 rms @4ohms, 600x1 rms bridged @4ohms) found on Craigslist for $80. THis amp costed $550-$700 back ten years ago. Class AB clean power great for SQ. I doubt you'll find this type of deal for this amp though. The seller didnt actually know what he had; other than "some old amplifier".

PPI PC275 (75x2 rms @4ohms, 300x1 rms bridged @4ohms) found on Craigslist for $75. This amp costed $300-$400 back ten years ago. Again, Class AB Clean power great for SQ.

Total spent on amps - $155 for ~750w rms of AB class power.

Both amps have 24db per octave crossovers. The PC2150 has a built in thermal exhaust fan. Maximum pull potential from these amplifiers is about 125Amps. With mysetup I suspect they'll pull about 80 amps while supplying power to just three speakers: a 10" Pioneer shallow mount and two low-brand DB-Drive 6.5" components. I was just barely able to stuff them secretely and secerly under the foam bridge behind the rear anti-roll bar. temeratures are a concern but not yet an existing problem to speak of.

For wiring I've got 4ga going back from the battery, then split off into 8ga for the PPI power plugs. I'll probably spring for the 4ga plugs on ebay later on.

THe subwoofer is a 2 year old Pioneer 10" Shallow mount; Pioneer has since discontinued the model but now sells an "iB Flat" series which have a better reputation then the one I have. My PC2150 at 600w you can imagine is waaaay over-specs for this subwoofer rated at about 300w rms. The only danger with overamplification like this is with audible distortion due to the woofer hammering too hard. I have the gains on the PC2150 turned almost all the way down. I have my opionions of Subwoofer maximum ratings and you'll likely have yours. I'd say 600w of clean AB class power will have much less ill effect than anything 600w in D Class power. Its all about distortion and clipping; which I have almost none of. The DB-Drive speakers I have in the doors are again over-amplified by twice of their rated power of 40w rms. Between the HU and the Amp's steep crossover I again should not have much long term trouble. Again, I over-amplify to keep things comming out of the amp very clean. I really doubt the system ever peeks out and draws full power anyways.

The HU I have is a Pioneer AVH-p3200BT which has very good sound quality and features for the price. Its got a 5.7" or so screen and plays DVDs, has an EQ, Bluetooth for phone calls, and some decent features. It has everything minux the nav, but I got it for a good price so it didnt matter.

I really need to stuff some pictures of my .2 Cubic foot sealed box enclosure. It sits inside the stock spare tire and only raised the trunk/carper about 1/4 inch. I custom built it for $45 using MDF from Home Depot and its grill is so strong you can stand on it.

I've got 15 large sheets of Dynomat covering and quieting all of the rear and half of the middle area. This is probably the single most expensive audio mod, minus the HU. Its worth it.

I have yet to hear a better sounding system in a 370z. When the time comes - if ever - I'll replace the 6.5" components for something much better. Then I'll build a new box in place of the spare with something more exotic and powerfull; like a single long-throw 10" or 12".

Costs so far:
$45 - 4ga wiring kit
$325 - Pioneer AVH-p3200bt
$150 - Pioneer 10" Shallow sub
$45 - Home Depot MDF box
$35 - DB Drive 6.5" Components (They were mis-priced at the shop and usually run about $90)
$80 - PPI PC2150 Amp
$75 - PPI PC275 Amp
$240 - 15 sheets of Dynomat (3 trunk kits (5 sheets each))
$100 - Extra doo-dads and what-nots from Home Depot / Audio place

$1095 total

Last edited by Unclemeaty; 10-12-2010 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:28 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Nice read Uncle. to you.
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unclemeaty View Post
I'm partial to buying the old nastalgic amps from the 90s. Thay can be had for dimes on the dollar through Craigslist or even ebay if you are patient.

I bought 2 Precision Power Powerclass amps off Craigslist for the most amazing deal. These amps are now legendary artifacts only superceeded by the PPI Art series and anything produced by Zed Audio, Orion, and old-skool Rockford.

PPI PC2150 (150x2 rms @4ohms, 600x1 rms bridged @4ohms) found on Craigslist for $80. THis amp costed $550-$700 back ten years ago. Class AB clean power great for SQ. I doubt you'll find this type of deal for this amp though. The seller didnt actually know what he had; other than "some old amplifier".

PPI PC275 (75x2 rms @4ohms, 300x1 rms bridged @4ohms) found on Craigslist for $75. This amp costed $300-$400 back ten years ago. Again, Class AB Clean power great for SQ.

Total spent on amps - $155 for ~750w rms of AB class power.

Both amps have 24db per octave crossovers. The PC2150 has a built in thermal exhaust fan. Maximum pull potential from these amplifiers is about 125Amps. With mysetup I suspect they'll pull about 80 amps while supplying power to just three speakers: a 10" Pioneer shallow mount and two low-brand DB-Drive 6.5" components. I was just barely able to stuff them secretely and secerly under the foam bridge behind the rear anti-roll bar. temeratures are a concern but not yet an existing problem to speak of.

For wiring I've got 4ga going back from the battery, then split off into 8ga for the PPI power plugs. I'll probably spring for the 4ga plugs on ebay later on.

THe subwoofer is a 2 year old Pioneer 10" Shallow mount; Pioneer has since discontinued the model but now sells an "iB Flat" series which have a better reputation then the one I have. My PC2150 at 600w you can imagine is waaaay over-specs for this subwoofer rated at about 300w rms. The only danger with overamplification like this is with audible distortion due to the woofer hammering too hard. I have the gains on the PC2150 turned almost all the way down. I have my opionions of Subwoofer maximum ratings and you'll likely have yours. I'd say 600w of clean AB class power will have much less ill effect than anything 600w in D Class power. Its all about distortion and clipping; which I have almost none of. The DB-Drive speakers I have in the doors are again over-amplified by twice of their rated power of 40w rms. Between the HU and the Amp's steep crossover I again should not have much long term trouble. Again, I over-amplify to keep things comming out of the amp very clean. I really doubt the system ever peeks out and draws full power anyways.

The HU I have is a Pioneer AVH-p3200BT which has very good sound quality and features for the price. Its got a 5.7" or so screen and plays DVDs, has an EQ, Bluetooth for phone calls, and some decent features. It has everything minux the nav, but I got it for a good price so it didnt matter.

I really need to stuff some pictures of my .2 Cubic foot sealed box enclosure. It sits inside the stock spare tire and only raised the trunk/carper about 1/4 inch. I custom built it for $45 using MDF from Home Depot and its grill is so strong you can stand on it.

I've got 15 large sheets of Dynomat covering and quieting all of the rear and half of the middle area. This is probably the single most expensive audio mod, minus the HU. Its worth it.

I have yet to hear a better sounding system in a 370z. When the time comes - if ever - I'll replace the 6.5" components for something much better. Then I'll build a new box in place of the spare with something more exotic and powerfull; like a single long-throw 10" or 12".

Costs so far:
$45 - 4ga wiring kit
$325 - Pioneer AVH-p3200bt
$150 - Pioneer 10" Shallow sub
$45 - Home Depot MDF box
$35 - DB Drive 6.5" Components (They were mis-priced at the shop and usually run about $90)
$80 - PPI PC2150 Amp
$75 - PPI PC275 Amp
$240 - 15 sheets of Dynomat (3 trunk kits (5 sheets each))
$100 - Extra doo-dads and what-nots from Home Depot / Audio place

$1095 total
Love the old amps, i still have 3- M25 PG amps, and my buddy has my PPI A1200 and A600 as well as my Son of Frank amp n stein PG amp.
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