Suggestions needed for Subwoofer Upgrade
 

I have a 2010 370Z roadster with Nav. I want to add more bass, mainly cause the Bose Subwoofer lacks, um, BASs! Any suggestions on a way to get a better subwoofer connected to the Nav system? Can I take the speaker level connection convert it to line level and add a powered sub?

Please search next time but this has been asked plenty of times.

Use a mtx re-q just the single not the 5 and tap that into the sub speaker outputs run power to it and install your new amp and sub, I recommend a 12 inch sub because convertibles are hard to keep bass in. Look at image dynamics 12 q or a Rockford fosgate punch stage 3. Look for a amp that will give you 800 watts RMS or even a 1000 watt amp and just turn the gain down.

I do not think the z enclosure will work in your car so that kind of hurts your ease of install.

Actually when connecting the RE-Q you need to not only pick-up the sub but also a full range speaker for the restoration process to work in the RE-Q.

I would not recommend a Zenclosure for anyone now that I have one, build a custom enclosure you will be glad you did.

Your not running a full signal for a sub and they work with just low input. I have done it before others have done it and even in the instructions it says it can be given full or bass input.

Your the only one I have heard complain about build quality of their boxes. Plus as I said they probably will not work in the convertible.

bigaudiofanat & Juleous,

You guys disagree more than you agree,I can count on reading one of your posts and scrolling down to see the other say the exact opposite.

Remember guys play nice:roflpuke2:

I understand and understand to agree to disagree but there is that and attacking someones opinion because you think it is wrong. I have no problem agreeing with some things but when the other person continues to target you rather than the conversation at hand that is a different story.

I know I think he has been a little harsh,I came in this section to refresh my skills and end up lmao.:icon17:

Actually sort of, the restoration process of the RE-Q requires full range input to accurately re-create the signal. You may not be utilizing the full range output of the Re-Q but you sure do need it to get the best performance from the Re-Q.

Not my fault Matt keeps pedaling wrong info.

I very rarely state an opinion everything I say is facts that you can verify, the only reason you don't like it cause I point out the odvious. You like to chime in on every audio thread cause you think your the expert, if you state a wrong fact then I am going to correct you.

If I have used the req in other cars and give correct info even when the instructions even say the same thing about configuring and calibration that I am saying. I am going to correct you. You and your comments like "Not my fault Matt keeps pedaling wrong info" Is attacking me as a person and is against the forums rules and you have been pointed out before. I know that the re-q works as I stated and so I am going to recommend it. I chime in on threads because I know what I am talking about,

Against forum rules.

Really? Now thats a case of the pot calling the kettle black! You're the one who chimes in on every thread. About two weeks ago I was laughing at loud at you because you were the last person to post of the 5-6 most recent threads!

Man I love this thread.:ughdance:

Well, there are a whole lot more of those threads in here lol.

I hate to say it, but the reQ will work in this case with just the sub in put, however, if you are taping into just the sub channel and adding just a sub, you can get away with out a reQ, just get a decent amp with high level in puts, or a GOOD LOC, the single is already prosesed to do what you need. If you had no sub channel then you would need to have all the in puts on the ReQ hooked up.

I got that info straight from your technicians mouth. Yes it will work but as he stated very clearly the less high range signal input the less restoration that takes place. If you fade off the high input reduces the level of restoration, I spent a great deal of time with the technician discussing this very thing.

If your technicians are not giving out the correct info maybe you could correct them? Anyway I don't care cause my RE-Q works great, and I don't have to pull the Bose amp apart again when I add more to the system. Your in the harness anyway just solder in the extra 4 wires and call it good.

With adding just a sub in this case, the sub is already eq'd so the frequancies needed are already there. If you were doing a sub add on to a stock 4 or 6 speaker set up then yes for sure hook up everything.
The way a ReQ works is it fixes the bass roll off that some OEM HU have, by sensing voltage differences and correcting them to bring the output back up, But because this is a system with a sub already there wont be any roll off on that channel. So if you are hooking up to that channel the only thing that needs to be "fixed" is the signal level.

So long story short the tech is right, if you have a non sub channel car, but with having a sub channel it's not needed, in this case.
And yes if you are adding to the system, as you are, hook up everything. But the OP just wants better bass.

Where could I get a custom enclosure? And the MTX Re-Q converts the speaker level signal back to line I take it? But re-eqalizes it to have more bass?

Ok that makes sense, why wouldn't you connect the full range input for a customer. Would seem to be lazy not too, only takes a few minutes and gives more output options to the customer. How about the smart engage will that work properly without the fullrange input?

If someone installed a RE-Q for me and I had to go back and get them to hook it all up that would make me very unhappy.

Basically yes. some OEM HU will eq out bass at higher volumes to protect the stock speakers, the ReQ fixes that so when you keep the stock HU you can still get a full signal to the amp. however on cars that have mids tweets, subs, ect if you are adding just a sub then you can get away with just useing the sub channe; as it hasn't been eq'd to take out bass.

Thats why the sales guy should find out the whole plan of said customer, other wise yeah it make for a pissed customer.

smart engauge will still work.

As for the enclosure you will have to get one built for it.

Does the re-Q convert speaker level to line level? Thats the part I need. Also ANyone know subwoofers that will fit in the existing spot on my roadster? I prefer to not have to build an enclosure.

Yes basically put the req is a converter, but it also EQ's.

I would not mind a road trip to or from where you are for a custom box install.

Can someone explain to me how to set the presets for the fm stations.

i'm lost:ughdance:

You need a Pro for that.:tiphat:

:drama:

:stirthepot:

people... come on...

I will try to get us back on track.

Not to hijack the thread but I'm doing the same thing looking to put a sub in what do you guys think about a 8in sub,I know it doesn't sound like a 10 or 12 but I'm looking for good clean lows without blowing my head off.
Probably putting 200-300 watts depending on the size of sub.

Let me know what you think.

:iagree:

I believe Matt (bigaudiofanat) always carries himself and the conversation with respect and class.

If anyone wants my 2 cents, then listen to what Matt has to say.

He helped me out no end with advice, and done an awesome clean install for me.

Funny, but "good clean lows without blowing my head off" pretty much sums up the Bose system as-is. Ah, well. JMHO.

A 8 inch sub will give you a more fuller sound than not having one. In a z an 8 will give you solid bass but not put out anything loud or rattle anything.

200 watts is not needed but can be used for a 8 inch.

I recommend looking at a polk mm sub. Or take a look at the JL if you want to go with another brand that makes good subs in this size. Just make sure to turn the gain down for either and tune it for no distortion.

8W3V3-4 - JL Audio 8" 150 Watt RMS 4 Ohm Subwoofer
MM840D - Polk Audio Mobile Monitor Series 8" sub with dual 4-ohm voice coils

For an amp take a look at these.

MRP-M500 - Alpine Mono 500W subwoofer amplifier

P400-1 - Rockford Fosgate 400 Watt Monoblock Punch Series Amplifier

PA400.1 - Polk Audio 1 Ch 400 Watt Amplifier

I have the Bose system and it could not blow my nose let alone my head off:icon17:

What if I had the same suggestion but use a 10in and need a amp to power my Polk audio db6501's and the 10in sub.

:roflpuke2:

Those same amps would work for a ten. If you wanted a all I'm one look at the alpine pdx5

Why an 8"? what about a shallow 10, something that works in a small box, set up right it wont blow your head off, and will be tight, it also opens up a lot more options.

My stock Bose just Blew! LOL