Common Ground is what you are refering to, and it hasn't been used in the OEM for about 30 years. Not a problem anymore. I have a '79 pontiac that has a + and - even.

Now see, that's my problem, I've been working on cars for 49 years, obviously much history there. Oh well. Unfortunately the stock components have no identifiable markings. Never mind, I've moved on. Everything is back in the car and works fine except the SERVICE ENGINE SOON (SES) light is on. Apparently, at some point I connected the battery and one or more connectors were not in place. When I started the car the SES came on. I then rechecked all the connectors and restarted the engine no SES. On the next start up the SES was back on. Does anyone know if the SES resets after a certain number of restart cycles? Otherwise I need to get a code read.

hey GD- did you check out the links i posted? :icon14:


SES resets after 5 re-starts usually but in your case sounds like you got intermittent connection somewhere. you are referring to SES, not SRS (airbag DTC) correct?

49 yrs working on cars and you dont have a OBD2 scanner??!! :D

Does the sun rise in the east and set in the west? Yes, I have a code reader! But for some reason it won't link with the Z, all I get is an error message. In shopping for a possible replacement noticed that the new readers state that they are compatible with the OBDII revisions that occurred around 2002-3 and my reader is from the 90's.

My experience with cars started when I helped my dad change shocks and water pumps. Most of my engine experience is with 260/289 Fords and to a lesser extent LS1 GM engines. My more recent projects were a 1999 Camaro SS M6 and a 2004 GTO M6. Most of the work was mechanical and neither car was touchy about throwing SES codes. The LoFi audio system in the Z has got me working in an area of the car that I haven't had to do much with in a long time.

Yea, I looked at the links, nice stuff too, but a little big for my current budget. Looks like a nice system though.

I'll run some more start stop cycles and see if the SES clears. Thanks for the help, it's very much appreciated.

I'm just kidding around. :p

Yah, OBD2 is current. I have an Acron one. Works great.

You can go to autozone and have them pull the code for you. You might need to go through a "drive cycle" before it'll clear. GL

Yea, AutoZone is on my to-do list if the code doesn't clear soon.

The Polk speakers are way, way better than stock. Highs and lows that the OEM speakers don't even know exist. An under seat self powered sub wouldn't hurt, but thats for the future, maybe.

Been looking at affordable head units. The Boss BV9155B has possibilities, DVD, USB, Bluetooth and more for about $280.00 with install kit and rearview camera. Any thoughts?

never heard of them.... nor tried.

when you say Boss i think of Boss guitar pedals by Roland. :D

:bowrofl: Now I know you spend too much time in the music room.

Maybe this will help.

There are power outputs from base HU, just need 4 1mm female connectors, here's couple pictures. Now that I have hu pre-wired, just waiting for db351. Ready for future up-grades(new HU, & amps ).

Thanx, Badzx! Exactly the info I (and the OP!) was looking for. I know everyone says to just go with an aftermarket HU, but not in the cards for me right now. I want those rear outputs (or at least one of them) to drive my "DIY spare tire subwoofer" amp. That way the fader control can be used to balance the sub volume vs. the rest of the system. Dynamat, do the sub, upgrade the front speakers, and live with it until I get the Typhoon sold and generate some cash.

Good idea for the rears to run threw a LOC and into your sub. Jut be careful I have seen some not send a full signal to the back like they do the fronts.

As an electronics engineer, I can promise that a low or high pass audio filter can be made with a simple RC circuit. Thats a circuit with a capacitor and resistor.