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Ok no problem.
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#1 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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Ok no problem.
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Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ |
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#2 (permalink) |
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I will take your advice and do a PDX F4 and a PDX M6 instead, should power the 1023's nicely. How about the airflow under the sub location? You think it would be ok to locate both of these amps under there?
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#3 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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Should be fine under the seats they run cool.
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Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ |
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#4 (permalink) |
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also i recommend going with the comp vr kickers if you really wanna get a lot of base because they respond really well even if you dont have the biggest amp...and they werent too pricey
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#6 (permalink) |
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Changed the system design as suggested by Matt.
Zenclosure with 2 10" Alpine SWR 1023D Powerd by a Alpine PDX M6 MTX RE-Q5 JL Dual Amp wire kit Dynamat the back end My plan is to do this system in stages, my biggest complaint about the blose is the lack of low end power. This upgrade should do the trick till I can assemble all the rest of the components HU, fronts, amp etc. I really want the Bass now, I also want all top end components with the works so I will wait till I have them all to pull apart the doors and front end. Do the sub upgrade now so I can atleast live with the Bose crap, probably end up blowing it in the process but oh well it's blows. I am pricing it at $1000CAD out the door for everything and a weekend should be plenty of time to get it done. This upgrade will be very easy to do for most anyone, cost effective and I will post pics of the job. Last edited by Juleous; 08-10-2010 at 11:15 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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Looks good just remember that the amp is not going to put out that RMS all the time only if the gain is maxed out and your head unit is at full volume which will never happen without distortion. So after you set your gain and all your looking at more like 180 watts per sub.
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Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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What do think the max wattage you could put in Z before you need to upgrade the alternator? |
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#9 (permalink) |
Car Audio Installer
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I think you can safely run a 900 watt rms amp and a 90 x 4 amp with no trouble in the z. I still have not read what the stock alt does but should do more than what none puts out.
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Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ |
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#10 (permalink) |
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500$ budget I never said that, I like most bang for the buck product and I strongly feel the two 10" Alpine type R subs in a Z enclosure with a Alpine PDX M-6 amp is the best bang for your buck in a Z right now. If I was working on a tight budget I would be talking Kicker level stuff not higher end Alpine.
My plan is to put in all top quality components but not break the bank in the process, so I am going to split the install up into 3 stages. Last edited by Juleous; 08-18-2010 at 12:29 AM. |
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