Audio System from scratch.. Bye bye Bose..

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:33 PM

So, I have a Touring 370Z and I'm considering removing all my Bose system so I can install a new headunit, some nice 4-way 6.5" speakers in the doors, remove the rear speakers or just leave them there but unplugged and changing the subwoofer...

I would love to spend the least amount of cash possible on this... Has anyone considered using any of these two alternatives for a subwoofer replacement..?? Both of these options are a built-in amp/woofer setup.. They look like good alternatives and occupy very little space...

I would appreciate your thoughts...

Kenwood KSC-SW10 OR JVC CS-DA1

And one question in the process.. What would I do with the front tweeters (the ones in the dash by the windshield)..?? can I forget about those..?? Thanks..!

bigaudiofanat · 01-23-2010, 03:36 PM

Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over.

I've read on it and searched.. My question was mainly about the amp/woofer combo items that I just found..

And I honestly don't know what to do with the tweeters on the dashboard...

labk888 · 03-06-2010, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over.

It would be nice if we could get a sticky post on what is required to replace the BOSE setup that comes with the Touring packages written by someone who has a clue what to do *cough...bigaudiofant...*cough*

... I am just saying.

Wicked CAS · 03-06-2010, 10:32 PM

And finaly done, We set up the Donor car with JL AUDIO XD600/1 Amplifier. This amplifier is smaller then the HD sries amps, We were comfortably able to install it under the pass seat. We also wanted to try out the 13tw5 Slim sub, Biy are we glad we did..... AMAZING BASS responce, even though we only added the sub and amo to the factory stereo we were pretty amazed with the amount of bass and how low this sub was able to play, yet it was very fast and hard hitting...

Here is spme pictures, we chose to show the subwoofer, and will be sending out a carpet sample to get peferated and have it be available for those looking to finish the trunk with a detailed and finished look.

For those who want to conseal the whiole sub you can by using the black styrofoam piece that comes in the trunk and lay on top of the box and lay your carpet over it. I personaly like seeing the sub, but you certainly can cover it.

One other option is to place the carpet on top of the e\mpty enclosure, Mark the whole, cut center and screw the sub in with the carpet in between the suband box, which will give it a nice finished look as well. if you were to take the box out carpet will be attached top the box and sub.

We carpeted the bottom of the enclosure for a snug fit in to the spare. What you will need to do is unblot the spare tire nut, Position the magic box in place, carefully lift the sub box back out and tighten up the nut without moving the spare. Then simply just drop the box back in.

Pictures shown with a 13tw5, we still have the 10" slim sub option available...

bigaudiofanat · 01-23-2010, 03:43 PM

Basically if you are going to start over than start over. Buy a nice set of components such as the polk mm series that include a set of tweeters that you would put in place of the old ones. Also make sure to run new wire to all the speakers and use the new crossovers that they include. Amps for a nice small all channel amp look at the alpine pdx 5 that way you can bridge the 4 channels to two and send more power to the front speakers and have a channel for the sub. Install your new head unit and run rca wires from there to the new amp. Take the stock amps and sub out as they will be worthless. Hope that helps you in the right direction. If you need more details or have more questions please ask.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:47 PM

Would it be smart to forget about the tweeters, simply install the headunit, get some nice 6.5" 4-way speakers for the doors, power those speakers only with the headunit outputs, and use the Kenwood Amp/Woofer unit I asked about as my subwoofer and that's it..??

I appreciate your help...

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pty370z

Would it be smart to forget about the tweeters, simply install the headunit, get some nice 6.5" 4-way speakers for the doors, power those speakers only with the headunit outputs, and use the Kenwood Amp/Woofer unit I asked about as my subwoofer and that's it..??

I appreciate your help...

Go with the components. You will thank me. The wire is easy to run.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptspeed

Go with the components. You will thank me. The wire is easy to run.

By components you mean the tweeters..?? I apologize for the ignorance... besides, English is not my first language... Thanks..

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pty370z

By components you mean the tweeters..?? I apologize for the ignorance... besides, English is not my first language... Thanks..

Yes components are separate mids and tweets. Just like in your car now.

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 03:53 PM

I just gutted the old tweets and used their frame as a base for my kicker tweets. If you are just looking for a good setup and not looking for perfection, the ampsub combos will make life a little easier. If you haven't seen slikniks tutorial, look for it. I followed his lead and everything worked well. Except for forgetting to hook up the power antenna wire. Bigaudio troubleshot that one. Good luck!

jikhead · 01-23-2010, 03:56 PM

If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

Sounds like you know how to stretch a dollar. I spent about 125 on my installation parts. not including my box.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

Thanks for your input..

I'm actually trying to not buy a woofer and a separate amplifier, the build a custom box, etc.....

I was looking into using an amp/woofer combo like the ones I listed on the first post of this thread... I think it will suit my bass needs...

My other issue is on what to do for the speakers in the front and whether to use the tweeters or simply forget about them and use 4-way speakers in the doors powered directly from the headunit with no amp for the speakers... Not sure how that setup would sound...

jikhead · 03-02-2010, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

I finally got around to hooking everything up weekend before last. To give you an idea of the power and all, I have the amp gains set to nominal-no additional wattage turned up from there. I also have the LC6 sub channel set to 50/50. The bass is right where I want it, and the volume control on the Bose headunit never goes over 20 as anything above that is too loud for my ears to handle. If I turn the sub gains up, the sub will hit extremely hard; too much for my tastes, too much rattle, and my box is under spec so I don't want to push it.

01-23-2010, 03:33 PM	#1 (permalink)
pty370z Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Panama City, Panama Posts: 654 Drives: over the speed limit Rep Power: 17	Audio System from scratch.. Bye bye Bose.. So, I have a Touring 370Z and I'm considering removing all my Bose system so I can install a new headunit, some nice 4-way 6.5" speakers in the doors, remove the rear speakers or just leave them there but unplugged and changing the subwoofer... I would love to spend the least amount of cash possible on this... Has anyone considered using any of these two alternatives for a subwoofer replacement..?? Both of these options are a built-in amp/woofer setup.. They look like good alternatives and occupy very little space... I would appreciate your thoughts... Kenwood KSC-SW10 OR JVC CS-DA1 And one question in the process.. What would I do with the front tweeters (the ones in the dash by the windshield)..?? can I forget about those..?? Thanks..! __________________ 2010 Solid Red 370Z * *Touring-Sport-6MT Black Interior Performance:** STILLEN * BERK * UR * MISHIMOTO * K&N * Z1 * ZSPEED * UPREV * DBA Interior: GT-R Red Start/Stop Button * MSA Floor Mats * PW:JDM Exterior: INGS+1 * SEIBON * FUJIMURA * PW:JDM * UAM * KICS * VOLK Last edited by pty370z; 01-23-2010 at 03:36 PM.

01-23-2010, 03:36 PM	#2 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

03-06-2010, 10:32 PM	#5 (permalink)
Wicked CAS The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Kingston, NH. Posts: 469 Drives: 98 Supra 1036 RWHP Rep Power: 16	And finaly done, We set up the Donor car with JL AUDIO XD600/1 Amplifier. This amplifier is smaller then the HD sries amps, We were comfortably able to install it under the pass seat. We also wanted to try out the 13tw5 Slim sub, Biy are we glad we did..... AMAZING BASS responce, even though we only added the sub and amo to the factory stereo we were pretty amazed with the amount of bass and how low this sub was able to play, yet it was very fast and hard hitting... Here is spme pictures, we chose to show the subwoofer, and will be sending out a carpet sample to get peferated and have it be available for those looking to finish the trunk with a detailed and finished look. For those who want to conseal the whiole sub you can by using the black styrofoam piece that comes in the trunk and lay on top of the box and lay your carpet over it. I personaly like seeing the sub, but you certainly can cover it. One other option is to place the carpet on top of the e\mpty enclosure, Mark the whole, cut center and screw the sub in with the carpet in between the suband box, which will give it a nice finished look as well. if you were to take the box out carpet will be attached top the box and sub. We carpeted the bottom of the enclosure for a snug fit in to the spare. What you will need to do is unblot the spare tire nut, Position the magic box in place, carefully lift the sub box back out and tighten up the nut without moving the spare. Then simply just drop the box back in. Pictures shown with a 13tw5, we still have the 10" slim sub option available... __________________ www.wickedcas.com Call: 603-642-4222 E-mail: Wickedcas@aol.com *DIRECT AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR:* AUDISON, HERTZ, JL AUDIO, JL AUDIO MARINE, KENWOOD EXCELON, COMPUSTAR, DIAMOND AUDIO, CACHE, ARC AUDIO, K40, PASSPORT ESCORT.

01-23-2010, 03:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Basically if you are going to start over than start over. Buy a nice set of components such as the polk mm series that include a set of tweeters that you would put in place of the old ones. Also make sure to run new wire to all the speakers and use the new crossovers that they include. Amps for a nice small all channel amp look at the alpine pdx 5 that way you can bridge the 4 channels to two and send more power to the front speakers and have a channel for the sub. Install your new head unit and run rca wires from there to the new amp. Take the stock amps and sub out as they will be worthless. Hope that helps you in the right direction. If you need more details or have more questions please ask. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

01-23-2010, 03:47 PM	#7 (permalink)
pty370z Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Panama City, Panama Posts: 654 Drives: over the speed limit Rep Power: 17	Would it be smart to forget about the tweeters, simply install the headunit, get some nice 6.5" 4-way speakers for the doors, power those speakers only with the headunit outputs, and use the Kenwood Amp/Woofer unit I asked about as my subwoofer and that's it..?? I appreciate your help... __________________ 2010 Solid Red 370Z * *Touring-Sport-6MT Black Interior Performance:** STILLEN * BERK * UR * MISHIMOTO * K&N * Z1 * ZSPEED * UPREV * DBA Interior: GT-R Red Start/Stop Button * MSA Floor Mats * PW:JDM Exterior: INGS+1 * SEIBON * FUJIMURA * PW:JDM * UAM * KICS * VOLK

01-23-2010, 03:53 PM	#11 (permalink)
cptspeed Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: tampa Posts: 799 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 17	I just gutted the old tweets and used their frame as a base for my kicker tweets. If you are just looking for a good setup and not looking for perfection, the ampsub combos will make life a little easier. If you haven't seen slikniks tutorial, look for it. I followed his lead and everything worked well. Except for forgetting to hook up the power antenna wire. Bigaudio troubleshot that one. Good luck!

01-23-2010, 03:56 PM	#12 (permalink)
jikhead Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Little Rock, AR Posts: 425 Drives: 09 370Z Blue 6spd Rep Power: 184	If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now: Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub. Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash. Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts. AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp. Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later. All the pieces cost me around $440. The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

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