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Audio System from scratch.. Bye bye Bose..

Max power is something that your amp will never produce. RMS power is what your amp will probably put out at full gain and full volume but it will probably

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Old 03-01-2010, 11:19 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Max power is something that your amp will never produce. RMS power is what your amp will probably put out at full gain and full volume but it will probably never get there because of gain settings and you are not running your system at full volume all the time.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:22 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
Max power is something that your amp will never produce. RMS power is what your amp will probably put out at full gain and full volume but it will probably never get there because of gain settings and you are not running your system at full volume all the time.
I'm asking the question because now I'm afraid that I probably got a subwoofer that will produce less bass than the stock Bose...

This Kenwood sub/amp combo is 150W max power but it says the built-in amp is 38W RMS...

Any input here?
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:12 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I actually have first hand experience with one of those units, u get what you pay for, I put one in a 70 chevelle and I wasnt impressed, It does have decent output using a passive radiator to increase output. For 250 you could have gotten a single 10 and amp that would more than outperform that. a 5x7 just cant extend low enough to feel
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:05 AM   #34 (permalink)
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If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.
I finally got around to hooking everything up weekend before last. To give you an idea of the power and all, I have the amp gains set to nominal-no additional wattage turned up from there. I also have the LC6 sub channel set to 50/50. The bass is right where I want it, and the volume control on the Bose headunit never goes over 20 as anything above that is too loud for my ears to handle. If I turn the sub gains up, the sub will hit extremely hard; too much for my tastes, too much rattle, and my box is under spec so I don't want to push it.
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Old 03-04-2010, 05:53 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Working on a solution for the 370Z Subwoofer addition.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:53 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I actually have first hand experience with one of those units, u get what you pay for, I put one in a 70 chevelle and I wasnt impressed, It does have decent output using a passive radiator to increase output. For 250 you could have gotten a single 10 and amp that would more than outperform that. a 5x7 just cant extend low enough to feel
The Kenwood KSC-SW10 actually consists of two 5x7 subwoofers.. I think that's even bigger than the stock Bose subwoofers... At least same surface area..
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:19 AM   #37 (permalink)
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ALMOST DONE

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Old 03-05-2010, 05:21 PM   #38 (permalink)
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got me at the edge of my seat...literally haha
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:25 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Can't wait to see the sticker price...shock that is.
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Old 03-06-2010, 10:57 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Can't wait to see the sticker price...shock that is.
That's not very nice...
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Old 03-06-2010, 12:34 PM   #41 (permalink)
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ALMOST THERE, Got the First one out of the mold. Getting thois one finished today. Will have finished pictures later this evening.

















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Old 03-06-2010, 07:40 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over.
It would be nice if we could get a sticky post on what is required to replace the BOSE setup that comes with the Touring packages written by someone who has a clue what to do *cough...bigaudiofant...*cough*

... I am just saying.
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:32 PM   #43 (permalink)
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And finaly done, We set up the Donor car with JL AUDIO XD600/1 Amplifier. This amplifier is smaller then the HD sries amps, We were comfortably able to install it under the pass seat. We also wanted to try out the 13tw5 Slim sub, Biy are we glad we did..... AMAZING BASS responce, even though we only added the sub and amo to the factory stereo we were pretty amazed with the amount of bass and how low this sub was able to play, yet it was very fast and hard hitting...

Here is spme pictures, we chose to show the subwoofer, and will be sending out a carpet sample to get peferated and have it be available for those looking to finish the trunk with a detailed and finished look.

For those who want to conseal the whiole sub you can by using the black styrofoam piece that comes in the trunk and lay on top of the box and lay your carpet over it. I personaly like seeing the sub, but you certainly can cover it.

One other option is to place the carpet on top of the e\mpty enclosure, Mark the whole, cut center and screw the sub in with the carpet in between the suband box, which will give it a nice finished look as well. if you were to take the box out carpet will be attached top the box and sub.

We carpeted the bottom of the enclosure for a snug fit in to the spare. What you will need to do is unblot the spare tire nut, Position the magic box in place, carefully lift the sub box back out and tighten up the nut without moving the spare. Then simply just drop the box back in.

Pictures shown with a 13tw5, we still have the 10" slim sub option available...























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