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Bose amp bypass?

Am i able to use the factory wiring harness that goes to the OEM bose sub for an aftermarket sub and amo?

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Old 09-28-2020, 08:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bose amp bypass?

Am i able to use the factory wiring harness that goes to the OEM bose sub for an aftermarket sub and amo?
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Old 09-28-2020, 09:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Am i able to use the factory wiring harness that goes to the OEM bose sub for an aftermarket sub and amo?
I made balanced rca connectors using the low level signals that went to the bose amp (all bose amps are removed) to plug into my DSP. Just make sure it accepts a balanced rca signal. Its pretty low voltage so i would recommend a line driver or dsp.

Without the balanced inputs or options on your equipment you might end up with horrible engine noise.

My set up:
Bose HU w/navi > Dsp AudioControl DM801> 6ch focal amp/1 mono focal sub amp.
Full active 4 way
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Old 10-06-2020, 11:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Danny.xl View Post
Am i able to use the factory wiring harness that goes to the OEM bose sub for an aftermarket sub and amo?
Can you use the existing harness for signal and remote turn on yes. Can you use the existing power wire for a new amp 98% of the time no. Also if you're going with an aftermarket head unit it's way cleaner to just run a set of RCA's
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Old 03-15-2021, 12:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I made balanced rca connectors using the low level signals that went to the bose amp (all bose amps are removed) to plug into my DSP. Just make sure it accepts a balanced rca signal. Its pretty low voltage so i would recommend a line driver or dsp.

Without the balanced inputs or options on your equipment you might end up with horrible engine noise.

My set up:
Bose HU w/navi > Dsp AudioControl DM801> 6ch focal amp/1 mono focal sub amp.
Full active 4 way
I'm digging through my diagrams to do exactly this. I think they're located in Connector B41

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Old 08-03-2021, 01:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here you guys go.

https://youtu.be/yubzGi8UqZU
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Old 04-18-2022, 12:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm digging through my diagrams to do exactly this. I think they're located in Connector B41

Hello,

Did you end up making RCAs from the diagram above? Did it work?

When you say balanced, what do you mean? Is there more than the + and - connection on the RCA cable? Do you need a DSP or will line drivers suffice?

Are there DSPs/line drivers that take low-level inputs from a connector other than RCA?

Thank you!
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Old 04-12-2023, 02:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Hello, if I am only going to run a sub and two front components with crossover what is good to use? I really just need it to take two low voltage inputs from the stock HU and split it into sub and front speakers. I am thinking of using a JL 3 ch amp. Can I use a splitter and line driver and rely on the amps LPF and HPF to split the signal for front speakers and sub?

Here is a picture of what I am thinking... would this work:


Last edited by NissanParty; 04-12-2023 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 04-12-2023, 03:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NissanParty View Post
Hello, if I am only going to run a sub and two front components with crossover what is good to use? I really just need it to take two low voltage inputs from the stock HU and split it into sub and front speakers. I am thinking of using a JL 3 ch amp. Can I use a splitter and line driver and rely on the amps LPF and HPF to split the signal for front speakers and sub?

Here is a picture of what I am thinking... would this work:

Yes it would work, but i think a Line Driver would be more appropriate since you are grabbing low voltage from the headunit.

The lc2 is designed for speaker level output.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...s/matrix-plus/

for the price i'd just get a the DM601 or DM801 gives you a lot more control and flexibility.
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Old 04-12-2023, 11:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes it would work, but i think a Line Driver would be more appropriate since you are grabbing low voltage from the headunit.

The lc2 is designed for speaker level output.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...s/matrix-plus/

for the price i'd just get a the DM601 or DM801 gives you a lot more control and flexibility.
Thank you for the info! I will check out the DM601 and 801.

In my picture, that is an LC1, which is a line driver and LoC, from what I can tell. You are correct, the LC2 is a LoC only, but the LC1 has low level inputs as well, at least I think that is what they are. It has RCA inputs.
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Old 04-13-2023, 12:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thank you for the info! I will check out the DM601 and 801.

In my picture, that is an LC1, which is a line driver and LoC, from what I can tell. You are correct, the LC2 is a LoC only, but the LC1 has low level inputs as well, at least I think that is what they are. It has RCA inputs.
dang, didn't even realize that.. I thought it was the same as LC2.

Yeah that should work. Just add some rca plugs to the factory wires. make sure you get some that have two wires in them "twisted pair."

the Stock output is less than a Volt. I think its around 800mv. So that line out driver is really going to help in lowering the sound floor and prevent you from almost maxing out your gains on the amp.
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Old 04-14-2023, 07:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What gauge are the stock speaker wires going out of the Bose amp to the front doors? Could I get away with using the stock wire and not running new wire? I'd still have to do some wiring for the crossover and tweeter but that's fine.

Does anyone have pinouts from the Bose amp with navigation? Are the tweeters on their own wires?

Edit: In the 2016 service manual are the pinouts on page AV-218 to AV-221 valid for 2019 models? That has everything I need, and it looks like there are separate wires for the tweeters. So I could run a 4ch amp for the front speakers, different channels for the woofers and tweeters. Or I can put the xovers in the back and utilize the factory wiring either way. Seems good...

I am just worried about screwing up the plastic when removing stuff. I don't want it to rattle or squeek when I am done.

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Old 04-14-2023, 09:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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One more question for now!!!

Do the low-level front outputs from the factory head unit have the full frequency range? Meaning can I use that signal for my front woofers, tweeters, and rear subwoofer?

Thank you
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Old 04-19-2023, 03:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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you could use the factory wire. Its 16-18 gauge. Each speaker is run directly from the bose amp.

The colored pins are full range low level from HU to Amp. The ones that say "Speaker" at the end of the description are the speaker wires from bose amp to speaker.

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Old 04-19-2023, 05:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by The Weapon View Post
you could use the factory wire. Its 16-18 gauge. Each speaker is run directly from the bose amp.

The colored pins are full range low level from HU to Amp. The ones that say "Speaker" at the end of the description are the speaker wires from bose amp to speaker.

Awesome, thanks so much! Very helpful. I have Bose, I will use a tone generator I think the tweeters are wired separately from the amp but i.will map them all out.

Edit: oops, I missed the tweeter wirings when I first looked. Thanks again, I will use this diagram but confirm with tone generator!

I am gonna disconnect the engine speed wire to stop ANC too.

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Old 04-23-2023, 09:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I just tapped into the front preouts from the amp and when I turn the bass down on the HU it goes down on the speakers. Does that mean it is not full range? I am planning to use the same signal for the subwoofer, but it won't work if it's filtered.

Does turning the bass down on the HU turn it down on all channels?

Last edited by NissanParty; 04-24-2023 at 12:54 AM.
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