Park brake wire
 

I need help.. I can't seem to find out how I tap into the park brake wire.. I have an Alpine amp ilx-w650 and for some reason finding where this wire is in the car has me stumped.. Please help.

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Hope this helps. Always test first.

https://i.imgur.com/2cn2Kdg.png

Thanks, is that the only location, I just looked and it looks like a tight space to connect a wire..

Likely at the parking brake. Check the FSM, specifically Parking Brake and Instrument Panel.

I just went to that link, thx. Waiting to get approved there now. Boys I am frustrated trying to locate this darn wire! In that pic above I actually see 2 orange wires in mine when I looked.

I popped up my cup holder and there is an orange wire near the parking brake.. Would this be the one? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b7a7860192.jpg

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Don't think you need to be approved, just click on 370z, Coupe, then the year.

It worked, that was the one :). Thanks for your help, really appreciate it.

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Why not just do the alpine video bypass module? You can grab them off amazon.

Ah yes the pesky parking brake signal. I ran into this on my ILX-107 Install. After some research I found that the magic formula is that the HU starts up, then expects this signal line to be pulled low (Grounded) to allow the user full functionality. Sometimes it even wants Ground-notGround-Ground. If it starts up already being low, and staying low, it will not trip...that's Alpine's attempt at being clever to keep you from just tying this to a ground lug.

Sounds like you got the answer you were looking for, but if you eventually get annoyed with getting locked out of your settings and some functionality while driving consider the following:

Bottom line is you have to have some way to ground this ~30sec after the unit turns on. I ended up making a really inexpensive sensor that engages with the parking brake in the opposite way as originally intended. Drop the e-brake and you can use everything.

Some people will use a toggle switch instead which works fine but you have to find somewhere to put it. I'm not the biggest fan of making holes with no going back.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/...T&pageSize=500

I've seen mentions of the bypass modules and can not attest to their effectivity...but at the end of the day you're paying considerably more than the above 2 solutions for the same effect...and reliant on whatever is in the module to not wear out.
https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-P.../dp/B006FKAHFM

Man, I don't understand why anyone would unnecessarily tap into their factory harness. Always avoid messing with factory wiring, and the small cost of the micro bypass module is well worth it as a non-invasive install method.

A proper stereo install is 100% plug and play and fully reversible; any mutilation of the factory harness is just shoddy work and unacceptable.

When properly done (not that difficult with the proper tools), tapping into on/off lines is not a big deal. You don't have to be much of an Electrician to make a reliable tap/splice.

Yes, not a big deal but still avoidable. I would only tap if there was no other cleaner choice, and well...there is. I have been running a micro-bypass flawlessly for a year and I wouldn't have it any other way.

There exists a certain joy in knowing that you did a job the right way. The automotive manufacturing standard is still crimped contacts retained in housings for a reason, even if splices and solders work “Just as good.”

(my emphasis)
But there are other folks who prefer to do it another way.
Some people like an automatic transmission, some prefer a stick - neither group is wrong.

The reason for the multi-pin connectors is cost, not reliability nor being inherently "right". If it were cheaper to splice, solder, crimp, or whatever, the car makers would be doing it.