Anyone install a high-output alternator in their Z?

tRidiot

I heard or read somewhere that the Z has some kind of special system which regulates alternator output to demand, and that it was possible an aftermarket alternator could be problematic. I'm wondering if any of you guys have actually put one in, and what the results were? Mine's a 2009 Sport, BTW...

I know this car has a pretty robust stock alt, I get that. But I have 3 alternators on my Tahoe. Actually I have gone so far as to separate my stock electrical and stereo electrical on the Tahoe. So one alt is actually just a placeholder on my 3-alt bracket, one is a stock 145A to run the truck, and the last is an Ohio Generator 300A charging just the 2nd battery and running my system.

So due to lack of space in the engine bay of the Z, I am hoping to replace the stock alt with a high-output version, something over 250A, I hope. I have emailed OhioGen, but it's been a day or two and haven't heard back from Tom Eliopoulos yet. Was just wondering if anyone had done this, or is everyone pretty well sticking with the stock alt?

Just for reference, I have a Sundown SAZ-3500d (v1) and a pair of Zapco DC 750.2 amps, for a total of about 4200 watts available. Not really anywhere to put a second battery unless I put it in the hatch, which I'm not hot on right now, but I'll probably put an Odyssey Extreme Group 35 under the hood, as that's what I have in my truck. Seriously good AGM batteries.

Would love more information on the regulation of the electrical system, if anyone has it - I went with a self-exciting alt for the system in my Tahoe - after several years of trying to get my triple-alt system to run properly by the alternator control module I bought, going through a ton of batteries, I decided to go simple and separate things.

So... any specific info along these lines?

2011 Nismo#91

I don't think anyone has exceeded the stock alternator, if they did it was a custom job and really didn't include details.

bigaudiofanat

I've done some serious setups but I think you'rs IMO is a bit crazy for a sports car. You will have to upgrade the ALT if you're truly going to push that kind of power RMS, along with possibly a second batter.

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JARblue

Adding a second battery in the hatch is not difficult. A number of people have relocated theirs to the hatch.

DIY: Battery Relo

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dts3

I've done some semi-serious system installs before. If you've already run multi-alternator systems we can assume you know what you're doing. I'm just curious how you plan to find room for all that gear. Will you be competing with the Z?

tRidiot

The gear is already installed. I removed the spare tire and built in a fiberglass enclosure for 2 12s. Near as I can figure, it is just about 3.5 cubic feet. Here's a look:

Previous install:




New install:




The gallery:

https://trdoc21.smugmug.com/370z-stereo-install/


Yes, we have spent a shiteload of time and money on the Tahoe and have rebuilt things multiple times. No intentions of going THAT big with the Z (Tahoe has around 7400 watts), but I've done essentially everything I can with the Z except rebuilding the electrical - and I figure it's time. Might as well, right? I nearly put horns in there, but there just wouldn't be room for my legs, lol.

As for competing, no, not likely. I like to tune my stuff for everyday listening, how *I* like to listen - not some SQ judge's taste. I always found the IASCA-style sound to be fairly wimpy. I believe in "overbuilding"... here's a glimpse under the hood of my Tahoe:

tRidiot

BTW, if you look at the build gallery of the Z I posted, you can see, the hatch is pretty well occupied, so I don't want to put another battery in there. I COULD, yes... but I feel it would have to be up top, and would be intrusive and would be a detriment to the "lines" of the install. I don't think I really have room down below for it, after building in that box.

So I just thought I'd check in and see if anyone else had put in a high-output alt. While 150A from the factory is pretty nice for a little car like this one, it's just not quite enough for me. I am getting some voltage drop, and I don't care for it.

tRidiot

Well, I talked to Tom from Ohio Generator today and put in my order for a 300A alternator for the Z. Can't wait. The quote I got from Singer was a tiny bit cheaper, but honestly, though Singer has a great reputation as well, those are about the only two I would go with these days, and I already have one Ohio Gen and it is stellar. And Tom was very helpful, has been very quick in the past, and his alts are as close to bulletproof as you can get. He's been building the best alternators out there for competition vehicles for decades, and I subscribe to the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, anymore.

markesc

I'm now looking into this as well...

I think with the Z running hotter than most vehicles, and if you run 2 amps, then the stock alternator may be a liability, but I could be wrong?

I'm at 72000 and even with not even using the stereo I'm getting the random voltage changes showing on the cheesy stock volt meter.

Rusty

Here's a 250 amp altermator from DC Power. I have a 270 amp alternator from them on my Power Wagon.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/collectio...lternator/370z

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tRidiot

Just surfing through and thought I'd update what I ended up with for my Z.

Did some real work making the connections nice, spent some money on custom "Z" terminals, etc. You can just see the "Z" logo on the custom dual 1/0 power and ground going into the subwoofer amp here.



300 amp alternator from Ohio Generator:



Alt specifics:




Custom battery and amp terminals:



Everything upgraded to 1/0 under the hood, to starter, to alt and dual 1/0 grounds and runs to the rear (also a Northstar Pro AGM):




And I've posted this elsewhere on here in another thread, but it's the icing on the caek - the custom aluminum sub grill:




I was just tooling around in here, as I'm probably about to put in an 11.6" Android touchscreen headunit.

Hope someone enjoyed this, it sure is gratifying to me to have a nice system that also looks spectacular, in my opinion. I know it's not everyone's cup of tea, but I enjoy it.

McFookin

Very nice! What did you have to do to upgrade the wires to that fused terminal?

tRidiot

Really nothing, just needed ring terminals and bolted it on. My install guy actually did it, while I stood around handing him tools. lol

It's been like 3y, so I don't remember too much, really.

THE BULL

To obtain full control of your OEM alt you can pull the IPDM wire (regulator control)
And it will always charge at 14v and should give all the amperage.

You should try this first to test voltage drop.
The replacement Alt will most likely be a 1 wire type however if it is a 3 wire just like the factory you'll need to pull this wire or the IPDM will control the alternator and give you the same issues.

fruitloop

And here I was thinking I was the only one doing a serious audio build in a z

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