No Audio At All
 

This is a fun and different issue.

My battery died on Sunday. Jumped it and now replaced it. Everything is working like normal except audio. I have a touring model. I get no audio at all from aux, radio, sat, etc. The nav itself will beep, the volume controls display, and I don't see any blown fuses anywhere. Any ideas?

Did you just look at the fuses or check them?

Pulled and checked the ones that I associated with being anything audio related.

:ugh2::ugh2::ugh2::ugh2:

part out?

:icon08:

Sounds like a remote wire isn't turning on the amp. Or more likely your blows (bose) amp blew.

I'll disconnect and reconnect it tonight to see if that makes any difference. I already hate the touring nav screen anyways. Superglue a proper android auto unit over top of it and call it a day.

:icon14:

Screwing with the stock touring hud is a pita.

take it to a professional duuude....:ugh2:

I am going to rip out all fuses and check them just to be on the safe end. If that fails, to a specialist it goes. I'm not messing with electrical stuff. If they feel confident in adding a new HUD with AA, even better. I'd love to get android auto, google maps, torque app running constantly, and real bluetooth connectivity.

it'll be very expensive to upgrade your oem system... good luck duuude.

Yeah trying to even begin to upgrade and rip out the factory nav system is beyond a pain. I might almost recommend doing a Alpine DSP and run an android tablet up front with BT directly to the DSp bypassing any and all factory nav and amps.

First things first, I need to fix the audio issue. I stumbled across this old thread yesterday. Final resolution was to swap out every single fuse possible with new ones. Killing a specific system for a few seconds appeared to fix the issue for the other guy.

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/9...p-w-nav-2.html

I'd grab a volt meter and just check each fuse instead of replacing all of them. Ground the black wire, take your red wire and with the car on, touch the 2 metal contacts on the top of each fuse while it's plugged in.

Or touch the leads to the contacts on top of the fuse. 0V = good. 12V (or -12V if you got the leads reversed) = bad.
That's assuming you have B+ going to the fuses. If you don't have B+, you have other problems than a fuse (eg, blown fusible link, bad wiring, etc).

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
I'd grab a volt meter and just check each fuse instead of replacing all of them. Ground the black wire, take your red wire and with the car on, touch the 2 metal contacts on the top of each fuse while it's plugged in.



Um...that's what I said? :rolleyes:

With your procedure, you have to take two readings (each side of the fuse to ground). With my method, you only have to take one reading (across the fuse). Not a big deal, just a different way to accomplish the same task. :tiphat:

I must be missing something because that's exactly what I mean. :confused:

Maybe I am misunderstanding your procedure.
If you ground the black probe, you need to check V on both sides of the fuse to verify it is good (or bad).
If you know which side is B+, you only have to check V on the load side of the fuse ... but how many people are going to know which side of a fuse is B+?

Using "my" procedure, one only has to take a single reading per fuse. Plus it's easier (for me, anyway) to put the probes in the right place when the test points are close together.

But either method will work. Use whichever works best for you.

I don't have a probe yet. But I did smoke a few racks of ribs last night and they came out amazing.

Haven't touched the fuses yet. Haven't had time. Hopefully at some point this week.

NOW we make sense, sadly though I've seen some cars where you move 3 spots down and the B+ is on the other side of the fuse. Hence me recommending both sides. :tup:

Unless you plan on using your meter for other tasks, the cheapest one you can find should work well. $10-15 at WalMart.*
Edit: I recommend a digital meter. If you connect the meter with reverse polarity, you can bend the needle on an analog meter. A digital will just display a minus sign.

Or you can get a 12V test light for next to nothing.


Yum. :)


*Not a recommendation for WalMart or the meters shown, just an example.

:facepalm:

Let me get the popcorn ready....BRB

Took me forever, but I got around to the fuses. Pulled a few and swapped them. Audio from the front works. Now it appears to be an amp/sub issue. I have no bass whatsoever and it sounds like audio only comes from the front speakers. Very tin-y sounding.

had the exact same symptoms as the OP. just swapped my bose amp fuse with a spare they have in the box. audio works now

I've just been very lazy and not wanting to work in 90 degree weather. Haha. The front speakers work but the bose amp is still dead. I'm not even concerned anymore. Car doesn't get driven much now with me having a new job.

I purchased a 100 CT set of different fuses. I plan to eventually just start swapping every fuse imaginable and seeing what does what.