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What speakers will fit?
I wanted to know what speaker size fits in a 2017 Nissan 370Z Nismo? Speakers being replaced will be the two front door speakers, two dash speakers,two rear side corner behind the seat speaker. I was told the door speakers are 6 1/2",dash speakers are 1" tweeters,and the rear side corner behind the seat speakers are 3 1/2". Speakers being considered are Kicker KS series speakers will they bolt right in? Do you need adapter spacers for the front doors using Kicker KS series 6 1/2" speakers or will they bolt right in the doors? Are there subwoofers in the rear of the vehicle?
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Anyone know?
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Check out the crutchfield outfit my car page. They have a rather detailed guide for the 370z.
https://www.crutchfield.com/Car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx They list a detailed master sheet for the tools needed for modifications. The also have adapters and recommended speakers. https://images.crutchfieldonline.com...0000390076.jpg Sonicelectronix.com has a good guide as well - https://www.sonicelectronix.com/afg/nissan/370z/2014 |
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I put 6 3/4" in doors with spacer (recommended), 1" in dash and 3 1/2" in rear. If you got the Blose system, you'll have a sub in back. If not, no sub. |
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What speakers will fit?
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5 1/4?????? Why? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Ok. Just seemed awfully small for the space. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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5 1/4 and 1/2's are generally aimed towards larger systems that have dedicated subswoofers and mid range drivers as they have deeper cones per depth, resulting in slightly tighter, more accurate low bass and mids. The larger inch or so may throw out a bit more bass as a "do it all" speaker though, thus 6 1/2's are recommended for basic systems. |
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The stock speakers are a joke in that they have an extremely small magnet. Once you put in aftermarket that have a good magnet, you're probably going to get in the way of the window. |
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This was posted in another thread years ago. http://www.the370z.com/members/birdm...tter-stuff.jpg This seems to be the standard adapter across multiple nissan/infiniti cars. If you have the Bose 6x9, a 5 1/4 would be an easier installation just by using a 6x9 to 5 1/4 plate adapter. Where as this type you will need a adapter/spacer of unknown length. Most high powered drivers have a 2.5-3.5 inch mounting depth. The shallow depth drivers usually cost significantly more for the same total output (neodymium magnets, wider basket). They also inherently sacrifice a bit of bass impact because of the shallow cone depth. |
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Links anyone on where to purchase adapter plates?
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Bit expensive, but beats cheap plastic ones..
Custom Sub Enclosure | Affordable Sub Box I know the link says something else, but it should link you to the zenclosure spacers |
You can make your own adapters pretty easily by using the OEM speakers for a template.
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Thank you.
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I'm not going to point fingers, but there is a LOT of wrong information and/or false facts in this thread.
One thing I will tell you right now, "cone depth" has absolutely nothing to do with anything. It has absolutely nothing to do with sound quality nor does it have anything to do with sound quantity. Now the curvature of the cone and how the cone transitions to the surround, that's a different story, one I won't bother going into here. Quicksilvers, my advise to you is to do more research before making your decision based off of the information in this thread alone. |
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Whats the purpose of claiming the information is wrong without presenting any facts to your claim. The speaker depth dictates the potential angle and curvature of the cone, if you reduce the speaker depth you reduce the potential cone depth. Less speaker depth means you inherently sacrifice the curvature of the cone. Changing the cone convexity can and will change the directional beaming of a speaker certainly in the low mids->high fq range. Lastly changing the cone depth changes the overall displacement of air. changing a number of factors can change the total displacement of air, but the primary contributors is the depth of the speaker and xmax of the voicecoil, and the depth of the cone. That was my point about shallow depth speakers which sacrifice both of these factors. A 6 inch wide by 6 inch deep cone will always have more cone area than a 6 inch wide by 1 inch deep speaker. More of this is discuesed in this older topic Speaker cone designs and their effects - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum |
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Lol.. I highly doubt OP needs to get that technical with speakers either way. He's building a relatively low budget system and he's working with an audio shop. I'm not even sure why the shop isn't handling all the details for him. It sounds like to me he needs to find a better shop. |
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I think you did keep it simple. My last comment was meant to be directed to Chopz's comment telling the OP to go do more research. The fact the OP posted on here instead of doing the research himself to begin with would suggest that is very unlikely to happen. And now it's time to get back to work...
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Beaming has to do with frequency and cone diameter, not cone curvature or depth. When dealing with midrange frequencies (the most sensitive to human hearing), you don't use a "deep" cone. In fact, the shallower, the better. The deeper the cone, the more resonance, cone break-up and non-linearity you get from the cone. Probably why some of the finest, most accurate midrange drivers in the world are flat, near flat, shallow, or not even cones at all. |
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I'm sure i also wrote (maybe not in this thread), using such a driver with less cone area (flat, convex) would work well with a dedicated subwoofer or low bass driver. In this i think we are agreeing to the same thing. But in the case where this particularly driver has to do both the work for mids and low bass, a larger cone area is more beneficial. Of course you have the hybrid type drivers that use phase plugs and pointed dustcaps which will add a bit in articulations and decreasing "phase" cancellations which help out mids>highs. But that wasn't my point, it was made in the article...which is why i linked it. If you sacrifice the overall width, you can gain some back with depth, which was my point about the smaller 5 1/2 speaker with a deeper cone depth oppose to a flat shallow depth speaker. I also including somewhere how a domed tweeter or midrange driver is best for dispersion of higher frequencies, this clearly goes against the idea of cone concavity which works better with bass and larger excursions drivers. |
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I was referring to mid and high frequency reproduction only, whereas you were referring to mid and bass reproduction. So we were/are both correct. Sorry for the mix up. :tiphat: |
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