WHAT THE @&C%!!! Wiring LOC nightmare!
 

I love my Z but I've never delt with such rediculous audio integration like this crap. I spent and spent and spent money just to lose this BOSE sound from hell in my car and still am having problems.

All new speaker wire
New components
New rear speakers
LOC LCQ-1
5 channel amp
Sub
Hours of research labor

Nobody willing to offer how they did there work.
I've read probably 10 different install threads and they all end with more questions then answers.
Can someone not just layout how they wired there LOC in detail.
Color codes, LOC used, ect ect.

I'm not an idiot with this stuff. I was an installer years ago.
I can't understand how Nissan found a way to make this hard.


Has anyone on here ever used an LOC with summing into an amp or amps for ALL the speakers? If so what did you do.
Please HELP P L E A S E!
I'm a full weekend into just trying to get the LOC wiring right and amp functioning. My amp goes directly into protect when I connect any RCA and my LCQ1 shuts off then back on. I've changed my ground wire and location 3 times new RCA's.
HELP HELP

Man, I wish I could help you ... but all I can say is? I'm following this thread for more information!

I have a new 2016 370Z Nismo I bought that I already dislike the Bose sound in (even though I'm fine with the navigation part of the system). I really don't want to pull the head unit and all that. (Already spent WAY too much going through that, removing a Chrysler uConnect 730n factory stereo system in my Wrangler. Sounds great now, but only about $5,000 into it and MANY hours of time wasted.)

All I wanted to do for right now is add a bass subwoofer in back to supplement the factory Bose unit. But even THAT has me all confused. Like you, I just get people telling me to "read all the other audio install threads". But I've read and read! Most of the people giving wiring color code info and so on are doing it for older 370z's like 2009 time-frame. Like I posted in another thread here, my '16 doesn't even have a Bose amp inside the sub enclosure anymore like all the others I've seen. So the harness going into it doesn't have power, remote turn on, or any of that .... only 4 wires for the 2 speakers in it.

PAC or line converter are easy. The converter simply taps into OEM audio signal that feeds a speaker. You trade the +/- from the OEM and connect it into the re loose ends of the email converter. The converter then transmogrify the signal into RCA type signal. You use your bb newly converted RCA to supply audio source to the amps.

YzGyz

Out of Bose amp, Into LOC L and R (hi level). easy peasy.

re: LOC
 

Yeah ... I wound up buying a 2 channel LOC earlier tonight, because that's what I figured would wind up being the best solution for me.

There are a couple reasons it bugs me though....

1. The Kicker Hideaway sub box I'm putting in doesn't have RCA jacks on it. It does have both speaker and line level input support, but both just assume you have bare wires going in. That means to use the line level, I have to cut one end off of an RCA cable and strip the wires, so the LOC can actually hook up to the thing. Doable ... but annoying.

2. If I was able to find out for sure if there's a secondary Bose subwoofer amp hidden in the hatch area someplace in my '16 Nismo, I could tap off of that harness and have my remote turn-on, 12v power and even a usable ground wire. Since nobody seems to know for sure -- now I have to buy the amp install kit and run the positive wire from the battery all the way back to it, etc.

It's not that simple anymore. Bose splits the signals so you have a high level coming out as well as a mid or low range signal. You need a higher end LOC that summs these signals out. Once of the reasons I hate blows.

For your kicker you can grab the 2 wires going into that plastic sauces where your spare tires is in that harness. Send that directly through the speaker level input of the kicker.

agreed. To come off the LOC and cut the rca end, you will have WAY too low voltage to feed that sub. Those are line level inputs.

Good thing I'm not a fan of line converters. I didn't know that about the Bose. Hum.. what poop! Mine didn't come with Bose.

Good to know.
YzGyz

I stand corrected... I just looked at kickers manual for this sub.....This may be one of the most asinine things ever. The same wires are used for high level AND low level inputs... But they will sell you an RCA adapter to use rca inputs without splicing wires:bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl:
Simple solution... Pick up a set of female rca ends, and solder them onto the kickers wiring harness.
Probably cost you about $5.00, or use 2 of these... http://www.parts-express.com/parts-e...ector--090-104
Same as the kickers, but probably a TON cheaper

Lol you know JL and RF do the same thing with their mini amps right?

I did not. Haven't looked at those minis yet.

For the 2009 370Z with Bose and Navigation
 

Read the notes for the important info. Finally figured out the color codes with this. By the way rear speakers are a very very weak full range. NOT a real full range signal (and yes I ran new speaker wires)
For a full range signal to an amp use the dash tweeter signals and door speaker signals and sum them with a higher end LOC (LCQ-1) then split your rca output to the front and rear rca inputs on your amp. You'll lose your front to rear fade but that's the life the factory Bose amp.

Still smart to do this for a sub only. Just without front and rear inputs.