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It helps to reduce sound resonance but does not eliminate the tire noise from the rear. Next I'm going to try some external sound reduction material added to the rear
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#1 (permalink) |
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It helps to reduce sound resonance but does not eliminate the tire noise from the rear. Next I'm going to try some external sound reduction material added to the rear wheel wells.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Nice videos. Thanks. By the way you can get it from any auto part selling shop.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Great videos defiantly helped with my install. Here's a tip - when snaking the speaker wire through the doors - i used a thinner wire (a weed whacker line, firm plastic). Once i had that threaded through, I taped the speaker wire to one end and then just pulled it through using the weed wacker line (kind of like that rca pull tool). It took about 5 mins, but did this after trying to snake the speaker wire through for like 20 mins.
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Sorry if this is the incorrect place to post this, I didn't want to make a new thread.
Does anyone know if I can just remove the speaker grilles without removing the door? I'm pretty sure that my speakers aren't stock, but I want to double check and I don't really want to remove the door just to check the speakers. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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they are one piece. Only takes like 2 minutes to remove entire panel, though.
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Just wanted to take a minute to thank the OP for the removal and install vids, particularly the console removal, and amp power cable run sections. They were invaluable to me for a recent stereo install in my '14 base coupe...
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Hey just wanted to say a big thank you for posting these videos.. they helped out big time for me yesterday.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Can anyone elaborate a little more on how the wires are ran when using crossovers? I am also going to pick up a set of Polk 6501 components and I am curious how the entire system wires up... Are you starting at the HU and then snaking the wires from the crossovers to the individual speakers in the doors and tweets? I think I am just confused as to how the wires are ran and where they need to go. It seems like a ton of wire and a ton of work to do this? Am I correct?
I want to replace the HU, Components and add a sub just like the video....but I am confused on the wiring part. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
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HU will have RCA wires output in the back. You will use that as your audio signal to the amp/amp. From the amp, you will run speaker wire to the speakers keeping polarity the same for all apeakers (+/-). If the speaker set comes with a crossover, you will run then amp to the crossover, crossover to low/mid pass (LP/LF) to the big component speaker, and the high pass (HP/HF) to the small tweeters.
Quick breakdown for you -Headunit gets connected to wire harness, antenna, back up cam then RCA to amps -Amps get power from battery (with a fuse or breaker in between), ground (any big metal piece like belt or seat bolt), remote from wire harness, speaker wires out to speakers or crossover then speakers.. YzGyz |
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Okay....so just to make sure I understand.....you are simply running RCAs to where you mount the amps....from the amps you then run your speaker wire out to the door, tweets and sub. I got you....
I assume this is where most people mount the amps in the middle of the car....then run the new speaker wire up through the side kicks and through the door grommet. Sorry for the noob questions but I am new to wiring this all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Yes rca down the middle to the amp. You also run the remote wire down the middle to the amp also. The remote wire is simply a 12v power wire coming from a source that turn off when the car is off and on when the car is on. The amp uses this ogg/on signal to k nm ow when to turn on and off so it don't drain your battery 24/7. I think I taped the cigarette power outlet and used it as the remote wire. But yes to the rest. Down the middle and side seals.
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