The Install Videos

mototrmpt · 01-17-2010, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlikNik

Video #5 link is up

rca run / power wire run / ground location

see original post for link

SlikNik,
your videos were a ton of help today when I installed my amp and front speakers. Just a note... if you have a MT, the clutch mechanism is installed just above the gromet you used for your power run. Unless someone is willing to disassemble their hydralic clutch mechanism or they have extremely small hands, that gromet is pretty much inaccessible. I ended following the suggestion of pg6speed and removing some of the electrical tape and going through the main wiring gromet by the battery.

Thanks again for passing on your experience and saving me a ton of time.

bigaudiofanat · 01-17-2010, 12:02 PM

Same place I used mototrmpt that grommet is pretty easy to use.

G Fo12ce · 01-17-2010, 12:24 PM

Thanks for posting those.

I use these plastic trim tools for interior or areas on or around painted surfaces. Metal will scratch stuff:

$7.99 for a 5 peice set:
Harbor Freight Trim Tool Set

jikhead · 02-01-2010, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mototrmpt

SlikNik,
your videos were a ton of help today when I installed my amp and front speakers. Just a note... if you have a MT, the clutch mechanism is installed just above the gromet you used for your power run. Unless someone is willing to disassemble their hydralic clutch mechanism or they have extremely small hands, that gromet is pretty much inaccessible. I ended following the suggestion of pg6speed and removing some of the electrical tape and going through the main wiring gromet by the battery.

Thanks again for passing on your experience and saving me a ton of time.

I ran into this problem today...however, there is another grommet just like this one on the otherside. I did have to remove the cowl on this side and pull the battery out. This was so I could take a long philips screwdriver and poke thru the insulation/sound deadening material. I think this might be easier than the main wiring grommet.

jikhead · 02-01-2010, 01:31 AM

On your door molex connector video, here is a tip for others:

Drill a hole like in the video. Then remove the big grommet in the door FROM the door. Put some electrical tape on the tip of the speaker wire to make a smoother point for the wire to snake thru the rubber hose. Start from the door end, and snake the wire from the door thru the hose to the connector. When you do this, try and make the hose as straight as possible. I tried to grab the wire in the hose and help feed it up and thru from the outside. Once I saw the tape, I then used small plyers to grab it and pull it out of the connector. Pull the wire thru and then feed thru the connector on the car that you drilled the hole for. Replace everything and done.

After about 30 minutes of getting nowhere, I tried the above and got it snaked thru in about 10 minutes. This should save you some time.

SlikNik · 02-01-2010, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

On your door molex connector video, here is a tip for others:

Drill a hole like in the video. Then remove the big grommet in the door FROM the door. Put some electrical tape on the tip of the speaker wire to make a smoother point for the wire to snake thru the rubber hose. Start from the door end, and snake the wire from the door thru the hose to the connector. When you do this, try and make the hose as straight as possible. I tried to grab the wire in the hose and help feed it up and thru from the outside. Once I saw the tape, I then used small plyers to grab it and pull it out of the connector. Pull the wire thru and then feed thru the connector on the car that you drilled the hole for. Replace everything and done.

After about 30 minutes of getting nowhere, I tried the above and got it snaked thru in about 10 minutes. This should save you some time.

Little tricky to snake it through on the first side you do but it is a couple minute job once you get the hang of it. It really is a short distance to snake the wire and taping it like you suggested is a good tip.

bigaudiofanat · 02-01-2010, 04:45 PM

One thing to add to all of that is use armor all or wd-40 to help it slide works like a charm.

Sprite · 02-10-2010, 11:02 PM

O_O Nik, you rock!

labk888 · 03-06-2010, 08:31 PM

O.o These videos are awesome! Can you give some more detail on how you ran the power wire from the battery post along the firewall to the entrance hole that leads to the inside of the car?

jikhead · 03-11-2010, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by labk888

O.o These videos are awesome! Can you give some more detail on how you ran the power wire from the battery post along the firewall to the entrance hole that leads to the inside of the car?

Not sure if you're referring to the person who posted the video or my comment, but...

The small grommet that is behind the battery, I can't remember if it's visible as is. You may have to remove the passenger side cowl to see it. But you definitely need to remove the cowl and battery to run the wire. After removing, it's a bit tricky to get the grommet out. I used a small-tipped flathead screwdriver to get the grommet out. I then "scored" the center of the grommet in a pattern like so - * - so that the power wire would go thru the grommet and at the same time keep a very snug and water-tight seal. Now the hole in the firewall has about 1/4" insulation on the inside. I took my longer philips screwdriver and poking it thru the material. You have to use quite abit of force to force it thru. Once done, you can then feed all the power wire thru to the inside, replace the grommet back on the firewall, replace battery and cowl.

labk888 · 03-11-2010, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

Not sure if you're referring to the person who posted the video or my comment, but...

The small grommet that is behind the battery, I can't remember if it's visible as is. You may have to remove the passenger side cowl to see it. But you definitely need to remove the cowl and battery to run the wire. After removing, it's a bit tricky to get the grommet out. I used a small-tipped flathead screwdriver to get the grommet out. I then "scored" the center of the grommet in a pattern like so - * - so that the power wire would go thru the grommet and at the same time keep a very snug and water-tight seal. Now the hole in the firewall has about 1/4" insulation on the inside. I took my longer philips screwdriver and poking it thru the material. You have to use quite abit of force to force it thru. Once done, you can then feed all the power wire thru to the inside, replace the grommet back on the firewall, replace battery and cowl.

Thanks for pointing this out and clarifying.

I appreciate your help.

TreeSemdyZee · 03-24-2010, 10:29 PM

Awesome videos slik. I'm ready to rip my car apart this weekend and you've helped drastically.

37Z · 04-06-2010, 06:58 PM

Good video. I see your located in FishHawk which is close by where I live. Any possibility to listen to your audio? If so, PM back.

scrap · 04-17-2010, 06:47 PM

Awesome vids my man I have a question can I replace the OEM base radio with that of the Bose HU without any limitations thanks BUD

SlikNik · 04-17-2010, 07:44 PM

I wouldn't bother, Bose system is not really good. Better than the base, yes, but I don't think it would be worth your efforts for the $ you would spend. Purchase a quality double din headunit with navigation and build your system around that.

01-17-2010, 12:02 PM	#47 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Same place I used mototrmpt that grommet is pretty easy to use. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

01-17-2010, 12:24 PM	#48 (permalink)
G Fo12ce Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 996 Drives: Sold! Rep Power: 52	Thanks for posting those. I use these plastic trim tools for interior or areas on or around painted surfaces. Metal will scratch stuff: $7.99 for a 5 peice set: Harbor Freight Trim Tool Set __________________ Nismo Suspension: New Owners Check Here!

02-01-2010, 04:45 PM	#52 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	One thing to add to all of that is use armor all or wd-40 to help it slide works like a charm. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

04-06-2010, 06:58 PM	#58 (permalink)
37Z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 476 Drives: 370Z MB 6M -sold Rep Power: 263	Video: audio install Good video. I see your located in FishHawk which is close by where I live. Any possibility to listen to your audio? If so, PM back.

04-17-2010, 07:44 PM	#60 (permalink)
SlikNik Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 294 Drives: 2015 Corvette Z51 Rep Power: 18	I wouldn't bother, Bose system is not really good. Better than the base, yes, but I don't think it would be worth your efforts for the $ you would spend. Purchase a quality double din headunit with navigation and build your system around that. __________________ Enjoy my Audio Install Videos. http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/1...ll-videos.html

02-01-2010, 01:31 AM	#50 (permalink)
jikhead Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Little Rock, AR Posts: 425 Drives: 09 370Z Blue 6spd Rep Power: 184	On your door molex connector video, here is a tip for others: Drill a hole like in the video. Then remove the big grommet in the door FROM the door. Put some electrical tape on the tip of the speaker wire to make a smoother point for the wire to snake thru the rubber hose. Start from the door end, and snake the wire from the door thru the hose to the connector. When you do this, try and make the hose as straight as possible. I tried to grab the wire in the hose and help feed it up and thru from the outside. Once I saw the tape, I then used small plyers to grab it and pull it out of the connector. Pull the wire thru and then feed thru the connector on the car that you drilled the hole for. Replace everything and done. After about 30 minutes of getting nowhere, I tried the above and got it snaked thru in about 10 minutes. This should save you some time.

02-10-2010, 11:02 PM	#53 (permalink)
Sprite Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: TX Posts: 36 Drives: 40th Rep Power: 16	O_O Nik, you rock!

03-06-2010, 08:31 PM	#54 (permalink)
labk888 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Big D Posts: 233 Drives: '10 370Z PW 6MT T&S Rep Power: 533	O.o These videos are awesome! Can you give some more detail on how you ran the power wire from the battery post along the firewall to the entrance hole that leads to the inside of the car?

03-24-2010, 10:29 PM	#57 (permalink)
TreeSemdyZee Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kentuck-IANA Age: 60 Posts: 4,885 Drives: '09 370 & ‘14 Juke Rep Power: 27409	Awesome videos slik. I'm ready to rip my car apart this weekend and you've helped drastically.

04-17-2010, 06:47 PM	#59 (permalink)
scrap Base Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: el paso tx Posts: 42 Drives: 2009 370z Rep Power: 15	Awesome vids my man I have a question can I replace the OEM base radio with that of the Bose HU without any limitations thanks BUD

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