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Sorry I don't understand what working but not recieving proper juice even means. The swi is programed after installation to match different functions to different voltages.
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the connector we are talking about is the one that is connected to the white box underneath the stereo? correct?
and do we leave it connected? Should we cut or pull the wires out of the connector and then put the resistors on the end or put the resistor on the wire while it is still in the connector? |
No the wires for the swi are all in the same plug for the radio. Nothing is done with the white box underneath. Not sure what that even is (the white box).
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The white thing under the stereo
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/DSC02027.jpg <p> <p> is this thing http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/DSC02034.jpg <p> <p> which was connected to the middle connector in this picture http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/DSC02031.jpg <p> <p> Do i leave the box connected and cut the 2 wires i need? OR Do i disconnect it and still use the wires? OR Do I leave it connected and dont cut the wires but still attach the resistors to the wires? |
Yea I know the white box you are talking about, I just don't know what it is or what it does. Just leave it plugged in and don't mess with any of the wires going to it. The wires you need are in the harness that was plugged into the factory stereo.
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Ok. Makes more sense now
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That white box is your hvac control module, no?
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I still don't understand where to put the resistors. Do you cut into the wires in the harness going into the radio? Do you reattach the wires back into the harness or just attach the resistors and then to the white PAC wire?
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jpit- your kit should come with instructions. i just followed that. i think i used 2 resistors.
if you need the linky on how to read the values, check this out: :p http://samengstrom.com/nxl/3660/4_ba...e_page.en.html |
jpit. Is there a chance that you can return the SWI-Jack? The reason I ask is that I just bought a Metra Axxess ASWC and it is loads better that the SWI. It doesn't use resistors and it auto-detects your car. It is also firmware upgradeable with an optional harness.
When it does the auto-detecting, there are a two different series of flashes. The first one identifies which wires you have connected and the second identifies which brand of HU you are using. The first set of flashes is very helpful because it showed me that I didn't get both wires hooked up properly. I hated screwing around with those flimsy resistors on the SWI-Jack. Just a thought. If you can't take it back, then regarding the resistor install, I connected two wires to the white wire, then spliced the resistors into those two wires and put shrink tubing around the resistors to insulate and strengthen them. This way you are splicing wire to harness at each end instead of trying to splice the resistors into one of the harnesses. I still ended up busting one of my resistors and had to buy another (5 pack actually). I don't know why their resistors use such tiny wires. The ones that I bought were a lot thicker. Confusing enough? :) Quote:
The pink wire is the source and track up/down buttons. The blue wire is the volume up/down button. |
I was able to figure it out. The Pioneer HU I have has a wire remote input in the back and the PAC steering wheel controls work as well as the OEM unit. Was able to keep the bluetooth phone controls also.
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