Nissan 370Z Forum  

10" sub in spare tire!

Originally Posted by 370Zsteve Fix-a-flat won't help you if you blow out a sidewall. And that's why I won't part with my spare. Last flat I had was from rolling

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Old 11-22-2009, 11:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 370Zsteve View Post
Fix-a-flat won't help you if you blow out a sidewall.
And that's why I won't part with my spare. Last flat I had was from rolling over part of a brick that was in the road, apparantly fell off a construction truck. It was rush hour so there were cars in front of me blocking a long distance view of the road. When I saw it at the last minute, I swerved, but ran over it with the edge of the wheel......... bent the alloy at the rim and screwed up the sidewall ....... fix a flat would have done me no good.

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Last edited by antennahead; 11-22-2009 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I've been a AAA Plus member since getting my license, so I've never needed anything more than a cell phone to get me off the road and into the nearest auto/tire repair shop for free.

I'm still keeping my spare.
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:45 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I was thinking about trading in my 370Z coupe for the 2010 370Z ragtop until I discovered “no spare tire”! Now I’m having second thoughts!!
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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How's this going? Complete?
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I was thinking about trading in my 370Z coupe for the 2010 370Z ragtop until I discovered “no spare tire”! Now I’m having second thoughts!!
??????? a spare tire making or breaking that decision? Ive had countless flats and never a sidewall one and the kits do wonders. Now its not your typical fix a flat, its better than the ones you buy at the gas station but no it wouldnt repair a sidewall hole. And cell phones help too. I guess its up to individual decisions like everything else in the world but I wouldnt let a lack of a spare tire keep me from getting a car.
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:51 PM   #21 (permalink)
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How's this going? Complete?

Today I was finally able to figureout the pinout to send the rear speaker outputs from the base factory radio to my sub amp (with the help of SIGUR from Houston, Texas). I connected the amp and the pionner 10" shallow sub and i can not believe the amount of bass that this sub puts out. I will need to strap the sub down or do something else to eliminate the rattle caused by the sub box and the spare.
I also made the box 1/2" shorter so that it will be virtually unnoticeable when i put the trunk plastic cover and matts. Pioneer recommends 0.35 ft^3 min. volume (including the sub displacement). This box meets the minimum vol. requirement.
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Old 12-05-2009, 01:25 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Glad you got it going, post some pics of the finished product when you get a chance.
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Old 12-06-2009, 01:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Glad you got it going, post some pics of the finished product when you get a chance.
Very cool. I'd like to see pics & a write-up when you're done, so that I can do it.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:23 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Pictures of the final installation in the original post.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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What was your final internal cu. ft? Also, I'm working on a solution for the speaker wire w/o using the typical cup terminals. We use some really cool Turck connectors for these industrial PC's we sell/install. I'm seeing if my tech can get me an ideal cable that has a quick disconnect so you easily get to the spare tire, and it will use a cord grip to keep the pass-thru through the box air-tight.

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Old 01-19-2010, 05:46 AM   #26 (permalink)
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The box internal volume is 0.35 ft^3. I removed one of the rings from the box shown on the original post.

Let me know how you do with the connectors.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:03 AM   #27 (permalink)
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isn't ur box inside your spare? whats with all the "i would do that but i want a spare" comments?
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I think for the time being, I'm going to use a simple plastic connector on the outside of the box in order to be able to quickly disconnect the speaker wire and remove the box. I wanted something from TURCK - Capacitive Proximity Sensors, Inductive Proximity Sensors, Connectors, Cables, Cordsets, which has commercial applications for wires and connectors. We use them extensively at work. Because of the grade and quality, they would be pricey for an application such as this. But I haven't found anything on their website yet that would be ideal and cost feasible.
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:50 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I just have plastic connectors on mine.

I am curious how you were able to get 0.35cu.ft. for the box if your box seems to be smaller than mine and it was difficult for me to get the 0.35cu.ft. with a bigger box.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:00 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I just have plastic connectors on mine.

I am curious how you were able to get 0.35cu.ft. for the box if your box seems to be smaller than mine and it was difficult for me to get the 0.35cu.ft. with a bigger box.
After I stacked my rings and with the top off, I took measurements inside the box. It was a consistent 12.75" in the inner diameter all around, and the internal height is 3.75". 12.75 x 12.75 x 3.75 = 609.61 / 1728 = 0.353. Keep in mind that I'm using 3/4" MDF where as you used 5/8" correct? And my rings are probably a tad on the thick side. I could've gotten probably another .5" on the outer diameter of the rings. So if/when I do another one, I will try to get that little bit more out of the box size so I can squeeze out abit more cu. ft. I'm also gonna put carpet it on it too, so that will add to the overall size.
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